Nomad_Brad Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 Doing my homework on CL I came across a wrecked loyale turbo that needs a radiator, driver side fender, hood, grill and bumper, SO I called the guy and he wanted $350 for it, so I drove out to his house and looked and it and it was pretty harsh on the eye (at 1st) so I just left, ended up needing some parts so I called him back and arranged a pickup with flat bed, long story-short, I got it home and found receipt from '01(same year wrecked and been sitting since) for a JDM ea82T replacement and it had valve job, all seals replaced, timing belts and pulleys, and the total was around 2 grand, crawled under the car and BAMMM!!!! SHINYYYY NICE BLOCK, this thing look fresh from a machine shop or something, it nutts, I have never seen such a clean EA82T motor! and he NEVER mentioned any of this when selling:confused:. I payed $100.00 for a parts car and now it is no longer that, but my new project for I plan to drive this turbo'd edition of the loyale. Here she is..... and the banger: RAW: SO yeah, thats what I'm starting my time into...... any advice on the EA82T (besides remove and insert EJ) -Nomad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 I would repair the body damage and drive it as is. My old 90 turbo wagon had over 300K on it when I sold it and it was still running great. Old radiators and dirty injectors will kill this engine. Since you have to replace the radiator anyways, that is one potential problem resolved. I won't trust the injectors without having them cleaned since the car has ben sitting so many years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomad_Brad Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 So should I just get another stock radiator or is there an upgrade I can do? My friends are telling me I should add a inter cooler and that its pretty easy. I have seen so pictures of set ups with inter coolers and I leaning that way, is that a bad idea? -Nomad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 (edited) Someone made out like a bandit.... not sure it was you but hey - some people like S&M too. . Just not my bag. FWIW I've bought Legacy's in better shape for less...... you realize that has frame damage on the driver's side front right? A proper repair is going to involve welding on a new frame rail (yes I've done it before). But hey - if that's your poison man - whatever. But seriously - good luck with the project. Hope it turns out ok. Don't boost it past 10 psi and don't increase the boost at all without an intercooler. GD Edited November 5, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 The last 100K miles I drove my turbo wagon, ran 12 pounds of boost and no IC. Guess I was just lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 It's an unknown used engine - it *might* take that much abuse - and then again it might not. Better to err on the side of caution unless you know the history, etc. LOTS of people have blown these without any boost increase at all. It's just the nature of that engine. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 I just noticed you *didn't* pay $350 (thought you did at first)...... $100 is worth it for a parts car. Not too bad of a deal. Though I'm not sure it's worth it to fix the front end. That looks pretty ugly - I've done a LOT of work to fix stuff that didn't look as bad. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomad_Brad Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 I was going to say "how is $100.00 a bad deal" I originally wanted a disc brake swap which people charge at least $100 for that set up. SO I think it was a huge score. as for the damage...the come-a-long has become my new best friend, I'm not looking for show worthly car, just a d.d, I still have the older brother (non turbo loyale) so I look at it as a learning experience without having to ruin my now d.d. -Nomad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 My experience is that without welding on a new front, it will never hold the headlights, grill, fender, etc straight and perfect again. A come-along and bashing it around with hammers and punches, etc can help a lot but it won't ever really be straight again. That's just my experience though - perhaps someone more patient than I could get it straight again - going to need a torch to heat stuff up with though. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomad_Brad Posted November 5, 2010 Author Share Posted November 5, 2010 yeah I talked about welding on a new piece but my buddy swears he can make it happen, I got tons of time on my hands and this is a good excuse to use it...I just have to drive and hour to work on it each way, can't work on car while living in apartments, fathers house is in the boonies....:-\ Pics to come -Nomad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 i would make it happen just cause. I hate that motor but its fun if it runs right! definately clean the injectors and make sure your replacement radiator is for TURBO which is double core. Then I would drive it till the wheels fall off. also, just for fun, put the biggest, nastiest blow off valve possible on it!! just to mess with the ricers...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomad_Brad Posted November 6, 2010 Author Share Posted November 6, 2010 i would make it happen just cause. I hate that motor but its fun if it runs right! definately clean the injectors and make sure your replacement radiator is for TURBO which is double core. Then I would drive it till the wheels fall off. also, just for fun, put the biggest, nastiest blow off valve possible on it!! just to mess with the ricers...lol Yeah I was looking for double core and didn't seem to see one, I pulled one out of a turbo gl-10 because I assumed coming out of the turbo car it would work, when I got it to my car, I looked at the radiator and it look diffent then the messed up one in the car, the line the goes to the turbo is fine on the old rad, but on the on I grabbed from the JY does't have a line output.........What year can I find the double core rad, and are they noticeably different then a single core rad? just double wide???? -Nomad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 Nice score for $100! Can't go wrong with that... They don't make the dual core radiators anymore, at least to my knowledge they don't. But they do make a copper and/or aluminum radiator that is supposed to be better than the NA radiator, but it's still just a single core, but because of the different metals they use in it, it dissipates heat better than the NA radiator. So I wouldn't spend too much time looking for a dual core as they are VERY hard to find now. Just go with the "upgraded" copper/aluminum radiator One thing you didn't mention, is the title clean? Since it was wrecked might be something you want to checkout if you haven't already... Good luck getting it fixed up and running! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomad_Brad Posted November 6, 2010 Author Share Posted November 6, 2010 One thing you didn't mention, is the title clean? Since it was wrecked might be something you want to checkout if you haven't already... Thats where it gets tricky, it had to go get it from his brothers shop or something, I haven't paid a penny for the car yet and he let me take it. He is contacting me hopefully soon to get his money and me my title........ -Nomad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 Before doing too much to the car, I would wait until the title is in your hand. It would suck to fix the car up, and then not be able to actually drive it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomad_Brad Posted November 6, 2010 Author Share Posted November 6, 2010 Before doing too much to the car, I would wait until the title is in your hand. It would suck to fix the car up, and then not be able to actually drive it... Oh I will drive that beast haha!!! but he seemed like a genuwine guy and he let me take it without pying a penny, so if anything it can be a parts car/motor swap into my now loyale car. Where can I find these upgraded radiators at? just a parts house? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 Yeah I was looking for double core and didn't seem to see one, I pulled one out of a turbo gl-10 because I assumed coming out of the turbo car it would work, when I got it to my car, I looked at the radiator and it look diffent then the messed up one in the car, the line the goes to the turbo is fine on the old rad, but on the on I grabbed from the JY does't have a line output.........What year can I find the double core rad, and are they noticeably different then a single core rad? just double wide???? -Nomad Stock, there is no line from the turbo to the radiator. Only fittings at the radiator are inlet, outlet, and on aftermarket rads virtually all come with tranny cooler lines. Turbo coolant lines run from bottom of right (non-disty) head to the turbo, and then another line runs from turbo to the T-stat housing. (BTW, this hose is exposed to EXTREME heat and is a critical/common failure point. The heat can cause the cheap hose to literally crumble.) Aluminum does not transfer/dissipate heat anywhere near as well as copper/brass, and also tends to deteriorate thermally over time (IIRC due to buildup of thermally insulating oxide layer). Stay away from aluminum cores if possible. The 2-row-core radiator is spec'd at being able to dissipate only about 20-30% more heat than the single (too lazy to run out in the rain to grab my FSM ), so the real-world difference is not as great as one might think. The 2-row cores are probably still available if you search hard enough. I have been told for years that they are unavailable and have managed to find them; but may be true now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 (edited) Check with a radiator shop - they can "recore" a good metal tank radiator and may be able to build something that's even better than a stock 2 row. Radiator shops are an interesting place with some very interesting people who often have skills that aren't "common" anymore. For about 15 to 20 years now the radiators that have been used by the automotive industry are "throw away" units with plastic tanks and aluminium cores - they cannot be repaired in a cost effective way compared to the price of a new one - but with the older stuff that is not the case. I just had my ORIGINAL EA81 radiator for my '84 wagon gone through - fixed a couple leaks, changed the (broken off) plastic drain plug to a brass pet-cock (soldered in), flushed, cleaned and repainted - $48 out the door. That's less than half the cost of a new one and it's an OEM radiator which runs about $300 from the dealer. Custom aluminium radiators are possible as well and while they may not cool as well as the brass/copper of old they can be built to any specs so can be enlarged to compensate. Also useful to note that radiator shops can do things like - change the inlet/outlet sizes for EJ swaps, change the filler neck size/location, eliminate troublesome plastic drain plugs, and all sorts of other cool and unique things that most people don't know about. Most of them have somone that's skilled at TIG welding also. And the few that are in business still will appreciate your business and make you a great deal because frankly most of them are starving. The shop I use is just a two-man operation - the owner (who has been doing it for 25 years), and a college kid he hires part time. I take them business when I can. GD Edited November 6, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Last Millennium, I used to be the "''gofer" at a radiator shop. We used to do everything, including building tanks from sheet brass to assemble a custom radiator. If you find a good radiator shop, they can be quite a resource. Unfortunately, I haven't found a good one in years. Even the old-timers around here pretty much order complete radiators instead of rod/repair/recore work. The one shop I know that will build custom radiators really only does semi-custom: He wants production tanks instead of making up what he needs. sigh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 I would imagine a good shop could take a set of EA82 tanks and core it with a dual-row core..... I know the guy I use has talked about having to "recore" stuff - he does a lot of non-automotive. Semi-trucks, equipment, generators, etc. I can ask if someone is really, super intersted in having one built. The cost might not be super-cheap but for something that you now can't buy on the open market..... maybe $200 or so would be worth it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 turbo gl-10 because I assumed coming out of the turbo car it would work, when I got it to my car, I looked at the radiator and it look diffent then the messed up one in the car, the line the goes to the turbo is fine on the old rad, but on the on I grabbed from the JY does't have a line output.... -Nomad There are no lines on an EA radiator to the turbo. All the fluid lines for the turbo come directly from the engine. (oil supply and return, and coolant supply are in the pass. head, coolant return is in the intake crossover) Are you sure you aren't confusing the auto tranny fluid heat exchanger lines (drivers side, 2 ports)? there should be nothing different about the 2 raditors except one from an auto will have those extra ports for the trans fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomad_Brad Posted November 7, 2010 Author Share Posted November 7, 2010 maybe, IDK, I gotta still pull the old one out, its raining today so no way I can work on the project....working outside sucksssss!!! anyway I found a guy over here in Idaho with TONS of ea82 parts and I'm going to get some goodies (was suppost to be today but got rained out) anyway, he was telling me I should add a 5th injector, anybody done this or know where a write up is, I also am going to add a tmic hopefully as well to help the heating problem.... -Nomad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomad_Brad Posted November 8, 2010 Author Share Posted November 8, 2010 are BOV universal or do I need a certain one? I'm not to concerned by the "whoosh" as I am the performance of the BOV... -Nomad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 8, 2010 Share Posted November 8, 2010 You really don't want an actual Blow-Off-Valve (BOV), as it will dump already-metered air to atmosphere and screw up your mixture. A recirculation valve is what you want. However, unless you are planning on increasing your boost to broken-engine levels (i.e.- above the stock 7PSIG) than it is not really needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nomad_Brad Posted November 9, 2010 Author Share Posted November 9, 2010 You really don't want an actual Blow-Off-Valve (BOV), as it will dump already-metered air to atmosphere and screw up your mixture. A recirculation valve is what you want. However, unless you are planning on increasing your boost to broken-engine levels (i.e.- above the stock 7PSIG) than it is not really needed. Yeah I wasn't planing on boosting higher I just read that they are good to have on the performance side of things... but maybe the recirc is better? I gotta lotta reading to do.... -Nomad ps, Any wrx hood scoop around? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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