Brake bleeding question

[Yo'J]

So, yesterday I got my new suspension on my brat but had a few issues. My spring compressor I borrowed, the big jaws vice mount type didn't work. So I had to run to rent another, the standard type. Meanwhile my brake lines drained. So I set about to bleeding when finished with the struts. I ran across the loose nipple problem using a vacuum pump. I got air pulling in from around the nipples. I was thinking about teflon taping the threads but I dont know if that is a really bad thing to do as they thread in and out all the time and I don't really want tape floating inside my calipers. I hit all four wheels and had the same prob everywhere and the brakes on this car are bad. I would like to keep vacuum on the pump. What have people done to avoid this?

[zacyork]

im guessing you dont have a second person to help so you can pressure bleed. for safety sake i wouldnt put any sealer on the threads either. if it was me i would gravity bleed them for a while. then find something to keep pressure on the brake pedal, crack your bleeder then close it. then let up on that pedal. i takes a while this way but it works. i used an adjustable hood prop to push on the pedal

[renob123]

What have people done to avoid this?

 

The way to avoid this is to cut the part of the strut that holds the brake line. That way the brake line can come off of the strut and not be disconnected from the caliper.

 

Hopefully that will avoid problems for someone next time.

 

I didn't see you mention bleeding the master cylinder, so I'll remind you to do that too.

 

Jacob

[skishop69]

Using a vacuum bleeder and having air being 'pulled in' around the bleeder screws is normal on older vehicles. The bleeder screw seals against the caliper at the bottom of the bore. It doesn't seal with the threads. Chances are you've now got air trapped in the master cylinder since you left the line hanging open. Get someone to put the brake pedal to the floor, then crack open one of the MC lines. Have them keep the pedal on the floor for a few seconds, then close the line. Have them release the pedal and repeat until you get steady fluid from that line. Repeat the process for the other line on the MC then bleed the brakes at all four corners in this order: RR, LR, RF and finally LF. I know you only opened the front, but it's best to be sure.

[Yo'J]

O.K. So there is no thread sealer for this.... I'll just try to find a helper. I tried to bleed it all the way from the master but there is a bit of leak everywhere. Nothing you can bleed and be confident in. My wagon bled out fine, you could push the nipple with one hand and be fine. I have not a clue why this one is so bad, all over. Fluid color has been not that bad all the way through. Wish the weather was better....