Subi3k85 Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 So far my friend and i have taken a 93 EJ22 and dropped it into his 95 impreza outback. We put the intake manifold from the ej18 on to the ej22 made sure all the plugs were plugged in and hoses connected, we checked and redid the timing MANY times, and we also checked the fuel injectors.... It wont start. The last thing we did was a compression test, Passenger side:100psi for both, Driver side:70psi. would this actually stop it from starting? (was already advised about hashes vs arrows on the cam gears this is not the issue) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 That's pretty low PSI if those are accurate #s. What did you do about the EGR valve on the 1.8 manifold? that's the only major difference I can see. Doubt that would cause starting issues but.... Double check the small stuff. All connectors and all intake hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Not sure about this, but is the '95 Impreza OBD-2? The '93 EJ22 is OBD-1. Hope someone with swap experience will chime in. Welcome aboard, Subi3k85. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Not sure about this, but is the '95 Impreza OBD-2? The '93 EJ22 is OBD-1. Yaeh but he's still using all the Imp electronics. Shouldn't matter unless the CAM sprocket is somehow different. I am pretty sure they are the same so there shouldn't be an issue. Did the CTS get hooked up? Is it good? Try unplugging it for full rich start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subi3k85 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 the 95 is obd1. We have blocked off the EGR as well. As far as the psi goes for the compression it was a rental from Autozone its acurracy is unknown but its consistency is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subi3k85 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 I am pretty sure they are the same so there shouldn't be an issue. Did the CTS get hooked up? Is it good? Try unplugging it for full rich start. CTS? cam timing sensor or crank timing sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capn_r Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 coolant temperature sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Did you hold the throttle wide open when you did the compression check? Was the battery fully charged and the cranking speed the same? Do you have spark? Do you have fuel? Is it trying to fire or nothing at all? Try a cap full or two of gas down the intake, if it starts for a second or two, you have a fuel problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subi3k85 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 Did you hold the throttle wide open when you did the compression check? Was the battery fully charged and the cranking speed the same? Do you have spark? Do you have fuel? Is it trying to fire or nothing at all? Try a cap full or two of gas down the intake, if it starts for a second or two, you have a fuel problem. Throttle was not open, we do have fuel and we do have spark, it sounds like its firing on a couple of cylinders and pops occasionally. Sometimes it blows air out of the intake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zacyork Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 thats some pretty low compression. might be worth doing a leak down test. find out if its rings or valves giving you those low numbers. when you say pop do you mean backfire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zacyork Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 if you dont have access to a leakdown gauge you can do a wet compression check with a little oil down your spark plug hole. if you comression goes up after you put the oil in its your rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subi3k85 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 thats some pretty low compression. might be worth doing a leak down test. find out if its rings or valves giving you those low numbers. when you say pop do you mean backfire? Possibly a backfire it blows a burst of air back through the air filter but also the sound comes from below the block. We are using aftermarket headers so the sound might be resonating through the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 you said you checked the cam timing marks, what about the crank timing mark? the compression being different from one side to the other sounds like timing to me. unless you marked the crank pulley, you can't see the crank timing mark without pulling the pulley off. hope this helps, sorry to state the obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Agree with johnc . . . it sure sounds like a timing problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 It sounds to me like you guys timed the cams by the giant obnoxious arrows on the cam sprockets, and these are truly incorrect. (i know because I have done this exact thing) time it by the tiny almost non visible 'tic' marks on the cams... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Yep - backfireing out the intake is a sure sign of valve timing problems. You put the belt on wrong. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Yep - backfireing out the intake is a sure sign of valve timing problems. You put the belt on wrong. GD +1 are you positive it was a good running engine when you got it? did you hear it run? have a good feel from the source? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subi3k85 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 +1 are you positive it was a good running engine when you got it? did you hear it run? have a good feel from the source? We have never heard the engine run. We did however use the hash marks on the cam gears as well as the mark on the crank gear, they were all lined up with the 3 white lines on the timing belt. Is it possible the cam gear on the driverside(side with bad compression) could have come loose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 double check everything, tensioner could have not been set right and it jumped time, other than that, you may have a dead engine. If it's interference... well you know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountain brat Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 ur hash marks need to match marks on timing covers and the crank mark matches mark on the crank sensor, not just belt marks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 if you matched it to the belt, ummmmm. belt may be backwards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subi3k85 Posted November 12, 2010 Author Share Posted November 12, 2010 It was matched with the cover, we have had the tensioner out. At this point the engine is out again we are gonna drop the 1.8 back in for now and break apart the engine completely this time I will post an update if we see anything suspicious. Thank you all VERY much for your input this is definitely the best forum for subaru iv been on so far you guys rock . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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