Scott in Bellingham Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 (edited) Looking at a 80 4x4 Toyota pickup it has a 20r , anything I should know about this truck? what years are what , are the old ones the same as the new ones? as far as axle and drivetrain strength ? and interchangability ? EDIT**** bought a 82 it has a 5 speed with a 22R carbed Edited November 12, 2010 by Scott in Bellingham changed car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brumby420 Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 well its gonna likely have the typical toyota bed rust. the 20r motor is pretty strong and reliable. axels are good on those. what are you looking to do with it? muddin or daily driver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 wow, those things rusted in half here at the frame after the box.. none of the last 40 i looked at had a solid frame, even tho they said it was ok, i saw daylight thru each frame rail and hit it with my flashligt bottom and chunks fell out. goot luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 wheeler , things dont rust over here on the west coast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brumby420 Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 well a good wheeling yota is hard to beat for fun and reliability. How far are you looking to go with it. Basic mudder yota setup ive seen is huge tires and 5:29 gears. of course add some lockers. are you keeping the stock engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 (edited) well a good wheeling yota is hard to beat for fun and reliability. How far are you looking to go with it. Basic mudder yota setup ive seen is huge tires and 5:29 gears. of course add some lockers. are you keeping the stock engine? shorten wheelbase , plop a Justy body on, run 33s , lockers, flex Edited November 11, 2010 by Scott in Bellingham details Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Frames are usually fine around here. Body doesn't seem to be a priority. Engine run well without knocks or smoking. Has cross-over steering been done yet? J arms are the weak link of the steering. Looks like the right base for your progect though. How much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 Frames are usually fine around here. Body doesn't seem to be a priority. Engine run well without knocks or smoking. Has cross-over steering been done yet? J arms are the weak link of the steering. Looks like the right base for your progect though. How much? maybe a car trade , will see it today, its lifted on 33s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 maybe a car trade , will see it today, its lifted on 33s Perfect Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brumby420 Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 shorten wheelbase , plop a Justy body on, run 33s , lockers, flex nice. if you want more power toyota has a nice 3.4 turbo. if i ever get into engine conversions id do either that or a 4.3 vortec. 350 is good to a certain degree but it would make awful balance if its for flexing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 nice. if you want more power toyota has a nice 3.4 turbo. if i ever get into engine conversions id do either that or a 4.3 vortec. 350 is good to a certain degree but it would make awful balance if its for flexing. Neither engine will be a good choice for his build. 3.4 turbo has a late power curve. 350 in a toy is just asking for trouble. Yes, I know, they are all over the place. And 99% of them have over-heat issues and are unreliable. The only conversion I personally will do to mine is the 4.3. Good torque stock. But having access to torque cams makes it a no-brainer. FI and zero problems make it the right choice. Stick with the 20R and you'll be golden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted November 12, 2010 Author Share Posted November 12, 2010 OK looked at the 80, didnt get, went and bought a 82' it has a 22r and a 5 speed this ones all stock, with 30s , Paid $700 is has been sitting and has oil in the rad water and needs a alt , does run and drive everythings there and works, will be parting out the body and bed, cabs in great shape beds got rust Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Nice. Price is right too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezapar Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Ok, will be parting out the body and bed, cabs in great shape beds got rust Nice score Scott. I need a part off that bed. I need one of the screws that holds the dealy that keeps the tail gate from falling down all the way when it's open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Nice score Scott. I need a part off that bed. I need one of the screws that holds the dealy that keeps the tail gate from falling down all the way when it's open. Tailgate or bed side? I still have the blue tailgate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezapar Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Bed side, the tail gate doesn't affix with a screw, just a square knob that fits if you turn the dealybob sideways enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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