1982gl4 Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 As annoying as power seat-belts are, they are even worse when they don't work I just picked up a 1992 Legacy LS with power everything (unfortunately) and the power seat-belts do not work (both sides). They don't even try to move, and the seat-belt light on the dash is blinking all the time which is very annoying at night! Right now they are in back position so it's not a huge deal. Also my power sunroof doesn't work. Could they be related? I was just wondering if anyone had had this happen to them and what a potential issue may be? Thanks in advanced! -SB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 Your problem may be simple (e.g. - a fuse, a limit-switch, or a connector), but i suspect that it is seatbelt-controller related. I have come across several failed/failing belt controllers in the early Subarus, and it seems that most of them are related to failing solder joints on the power relays within the controller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 BTW- the controller is located under the left, rear speaker. Pull the speaker and you'l see a silver box mounted on a bracket. One other thing. If you pull the passenger kick panel, you'll see a group of connectors. It might pay to unplug these, spray some electrical cleaner in them and plug them back in. I believe it's the largest one in the group that relates to the seat belt system. I chased a automatic seat belt problem for a week, and it turned out to be a corroded connector in this location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 BTW- the controller is located under the left, rear speaker. Pull the speaker and you'l see a silver box mounted on a bracket. One other thing. If you pull the passenger kick panel, you'll see a group of connectors. It might pay to unplug these, spray some electrical cleaner in them and plug them back in. I believe it's the largest one in the group that relates to the seat belt system. I chased a automatic seat belt problem for a week, and it turned out to be a corroded connector in this location. The controller located by the speaker may only be for wagons. Most of my experience has been with 2-door vehicles (XT and SVX) and one Leg wagon. The SVX are trunk-mounted and the XT is below right-rear window. The connectors have been an issue in the SVX, so are likely to also be an issue with the Legacy: Bad contact, possibly due to loose connector engagement, despite having lock-tabs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 The controller located by the speaker may only be for wagons. I don't know why I automatically assume everybody drives a wagon. Probably 'cause that's all I drive. But yeah, the control unit being under the speaker is probably just the early legacy wagons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 It is a wagon! And my SVX had the same problem, I will check all of these locations today and see If I can get it to work. The connectors with corrosion sound like a good place to start because the sunroof leaks like crazy and the PO left the window down filling the car with water. Thanks! -SB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 If you still have your SVX, then the controllers will interchange between the Leg and the SVX. IMHO, it would be better to rule-out the controller before you start pulling interior trim hunting for a bad connection or limit switch that is not working right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markjw Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 You don't actually have to pull the controller box out. Leave it where it is, unplug the harness, plug in a known good one, and go from there. You might want to ground out the test controller. Maybe you could just lay it on the bracketry that holds the questionable one. But if it were me, I'd start with the plugs. It takes seconds to remove the kick panel, and it's not a bad idea to clean your connections from time to time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 You don't actually have to pull the controller box out. Leave it where it is, unplug the harness, plug in a known good one, and go from there. You might want to ground out the test controller. Maybe you could just lay it on the bracketry that holds the questionable one. But if it were me, I'd start with the plugs. It takes seconds to remove the kick panel, and it's not a bad idea to clean your connections from time to time. I agree, just unplug old, plug in known-good controller. The case is not used as a ground, so no need to mount or even ground it. (My 92 Leg used a plastic case with slide-fit controller board.) Forgot that wagon's connectors were behind the kick panel... 2-doors are hidden next to rear seat...PITA to get at. If the connector cleaning and/or controller swap doesn't help, the controller can show you its error code(s). IIRC, this involves jumpering 2 connectors behind left-side kick-panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted November 15, 2010 Author Share Posted November 15, 2010 Thanks for the Input/Help, I tried a box out of my parts car I'm not sure if it was good or not seeing that I had no way of testing it due to the fact the car is missing most of it's harness. It didn't change anything :-\ My next place to look will be the connectors, but I most likely won't have time until next weekend but I'm determined to fix this problem! And I sold my SVX it was really nice 54k five speed swap, but a WRX came along in my price range (1600 miles away) and I sold it to pay for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 15, 2010 Share Posted November 15, 2010 If the seatbelts acted the same (or nearly so) with both controller boxes, then the controller is probably not the (major) cause. (Probably due to use, the driver's side belt typically has more failures than the passenger side. It would be good to check both sides.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pootco Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 I agree, just unplug old, plug in known-good controller. The case is not used as a ground, so no need to mount or even ground it. (My 92 Leg used a plastic case with slide-fit controller board.) Forgot that wagon's connectors were behind the kick panel... 2-doors are hidden next to rear seat...PITA to get at. If the connector cleaning and/or controller swap doesn't help, the controller can show you its error code(s). IIRC, this involves jumpering 2 connectors behind left-side kick-panel. Hi, where is the contoller located on a '93 Legacy 4-door sedan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 I fixed mine Turns out the P.O. just took the fuse out for some reason, I finally got to take a close look at the car this week and that's all it was, now the seat belts work again! And there is no seatbelt light now! If anyone need's to know they are connected to the hazard fuse. Thanks for the help everyone When they actually do go bad now I will know where to look! Cheers -SB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 Before I dive in to an electrical problem, my wife asks if I checked the fuse. Sometimes she is smarter than I am. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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