99 OB Sport front caliper/rotor mismatch

[luckydawgz]

Great forum... unfortunately my 1st post is a problem

 

99 OB Sport front caliper/rotor mismatch

 

Last year while recovering from a torn shoulder, and I needed to have my front brakes done by someone else.

 

While recently inspecting the front pads, I noticed that my original single piston calipers, had been replaced with dual piston calipers.

Since the dual piston's require a larger (276.5mm?) rotor vs. my 260mm rotors, the pads were wearing in an upside-down L shape, with the unworn 1/2" overlapping the outermost edge of the rotors.

 

Here is what I'd like to find out:

Can I just install the larger rotors, or will I need to track down a set of single piston rotors to make this right?

It appears that he used my original single piston caliper brackets on the dual piston calipers, how can I identify them to know for sure?

 

What a F'ing mess!

 

Thanks in advance,

 

jim

[idosubaru]

that's awesome!!! i mean in a ridiculous, funny, kind of way.

 

just get the right size rotors, that's all you need.

 

sounds like you're not sure what style calipers you have, so you'll need to verify. there are multiple dual piston calipers with various size rotors - but 276mm is by far the most common and seems to match the size you're coming up with somehow.

 

great brake/rotor information here:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85014

[johnceggleston]

are both sides different from stock or just one side?

[luckydawgz]

that's awesome!!! i mean in a ridiculous, funny, kind of way.

 

just get the right size rotors, that's all you need.

 

sounds like you're not sure what style calipers you have, so you'll need to verify. there are multiple dual piston calipers with various size rotors - but 276mm is by far the most common and seems to match the size you're coming up with somehow.

 

great brake/rotor information here:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85014

 

Thanks I will verify the caliper size...that's the original info that I found and will use to get the correct rotors.

are both sides different from stock or just one side?

 

Both sides.

I also just discovered that my tone rings have nearly turned to dust and the caliper brackets are rust fused on... so I have more work cut out for me.

[Ricearu]

hose it a few times per day, for a few days, with PB blaster, It is your best friend for rust.

[johnceggleston]

I also just discovered that my tone rings have nearly turned to dust and the caliper brackets are rust fused on... so I have more work cut out for me.

 

you might consider used knuckles, complete. and then replace the brake parts. if you have 15" wheels you can use outback or GT brakes, or probably some form of impreza high end unit. all of the knuckles are the same, ithink.

 

maybe price knuckles shipped in from the sun / non-rust belt.

 

www.car-part.com

Edited November 15, 2010 by johnceggleston

[idosubaru]

wow that sucks.

 

get a quality 6 point socket on those rear caliper bolts, they should come out. DO NOT turn them too much when they are tight, this generates heat and makes them more likely to shear. rotate a half turn - then go eat a sandwich - rotate another turn and go check your email - rotate another turn and go workout - rotate....you get the point, allow them time to cool down. lots of bolts shear off due to rust but those ones will usually come out if you go slow and approach it right.

 

as for the tone ring - if it's usable just leave it, it'll be fine. they're not structural so if it's a little messed up don't worry about it, they'll work fine.

 

don't even try to remove your ABS sensor, i can promise that's not going to come out if the rust is this bad. those bolts shear 100% of the time.

[luckydawgz]

you might consider used knuckles, complete. and then replace the brake parts. if you have 15" wheels you can use outback or GT brakes, or probably some form of impreza high end unit. all of the knuckles are the same, ithink.

 

maybe price knuckles shipped in from the sun / non-rust belt.

 

www.car-part.com

 

I have 2000 16" WRX wheels installed. I think that's what caused the the parts confusion/swap.

These look like they may be RS calipers... I'll post a photo for ID confirmation.

 

I'll investigate the used part route, I did that years back with a dealer in ATL for a rust bucket Spitfire I once owned...

 

Thanks

jim

Edited November 15, 2010 by luckydawgz

[lmdew]

go to NASIOC.com and check the partout list. Guys are always getting rid of stock or used parts when they roll their WRX for cheap.

[luckydawgz]

Thank you for all of the posts....

 

I was able to get the front caliper brackets off by soaking the bolts down with the new foaming Liquid Wrench and then working them a 1/4 turn at a time... no sandwich needed :cool:

So the rotors are off, and a good look at the tone rings attached to the hubs shows that they are the pricey 5x 5mm allen bolt one piece "tone rotor" variety and are crumbling and missing teeth... so saving them is not an option.

 

I picked up new 277mm rotors yesterday, and they match up the the dual piston calipers, so I'll just need shop for the best delivered price for new backing plate/dust shields and the "tone rotors" from a OEM Subaru parts retailer.

(L&R tone rotors appear to be P/N 26750AA03, and the dust shields L&R P/N 2629FE040)

 

All suggested links for where to compare are welcomed.

 

thanks, jim

[davebugs]

go to NASIOC.com and check the partout list. Guys are always getting rid of stock or used parts when they roll their WRX for cheap.

 

Of all the correct information in this post, this is the funniest.

 

And also correct!

[davebugs]

I loosen part of a turn, soak them more, tighten them that part of turn, continue.

 

It's best if you can wire brush the other side of the threads.

 

I used the undo, spray, tighten, spray,undo,spray... method last week on a 95 Legacy. Rad bolts were bad. Bolts were so rusty that the top ones for the headlights are rusted so bad you'd never get a socket on them. I figured I'd be putting those 2 top rad brackets back on with self tapper's.

 

Patience and lube.

 

Sure beats fixing more stuff.

[johnceggleston]

if you are replacing the tone rings you are going to have to replace the bearings as well, which isn't a bad thing it's just more work and parts. have you considered used knuckles. you can't remove the tone rings without pulling the hubs. and i don't think you want to reinstall the hubs on the existing bearings, do you? shouldn't you replace them?

[luckydawgz]

if you are replacing the tone rings you are going to have to replace the bearings as well, which isn't a bad thing it's just more work and parts. have you considered used knuckles. you can't remove the tone rings without pulling the hubs. and i don't think you want to reinstall the hubs on the existing bearings, do you? shouldn't you replace them?

 

Good point...

 

But at 190K-mi, the reality is that I probably should also replace both front axles/CV joints.

Considering that I'm just doing a repair and not a restoration, I will see how the bearings look and feel before I just go ahead and swap them out.

 

Be assured that I will not sacrifice safety to save money.

 

Thanks for your imput, Jim