bstone Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 (edited) (UNDER CONSTRUCTION) How To read ABS Codes Symptom: Your ABS light is on. The following information is not applicable to all OBWs and may only be applicable to OBD-II capable (96 and above). In order to obtain the ABS codes you will have to use the ABS diagnostic terminal under the dashboard. Step 1) Locate the ABS terminal under the dashboard under the steering wheel. It might be REALLY hidden, so take a long look. It looks like this: and Step 2) Take the two probes that are tapes to the ABS terminal and put one in positions 6. To find positions 3 and 6 look here: Step 3) Turn the car to ON (not the engine, just the power) Step 4) The ABS light is going to flash. Record the numbers of flashes. Codes below. Step 5) Unplug the ABS terminal Codes: Abnormal ABS sensor, open circuit or voltage too high 21 – front right ABS sensor 23 – front left ABS sensor 25 – rear right ABS sensor 27 – rear left ABS sensor Abnormal ABS sensor, abnormal ABS sensor signal 22 – front right ABS sensor 24 – front left ABS sensor 26 – rear right ABS sensor 28 – rear left ABS sensor 29 – any one of four Abnormal solenoid valve circuits in ABS control module and hydraulic unit 31 – Front right inlet valve 32 – Front right outlet valve 33 – Front left inlet valve 34 – Front left outlet valve 35 – Rear right inlet valve 36 – Rear right outlet valve 37 – Rear left inlet valve 38 – Rear left outlet valve 41 – Abnormal ABS control module 42 – Source voltage is abnormal 44 – A combination of AT control abnormal 51 – Abnormal valve relay 52 – Abnormal motor and/or motor relay 54 – Abnormal stop light switch 56 – Abnormal G sensor output voltage Edited November 30, 2017 by bstone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted November 16, 2010 Share Posted November 16, 2010 Nice job. The photograph is a bit confusing with the extra (apparently unused?) sockets on the left. You might want to explain in the caption or add labels in the pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted November 17, 2010 Share Posted November 17, 2010 In many models the connector is black, 6-pin (not all the positions are necessarily populated). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 Well, well hidden, got half the dash apart n still no luck. Waiting for my flashlight to charge back up before I go in again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 Ok I have no clue, there are no lose conectors like that, that will pull out like in the first pic. Anyone who has done it needs to take some real pics of the thing, or maybe where does it tie into to trace where it should be. I got mosto f the dash apart and find no such connector anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 (edited) See my post #8 in: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117581 If they haven't been used before, the connector and probes might just look like a lump on the harness. They don't really come as loose as in the illustration, either. EDIT: The diagnosis connector is usually near the two green test connectors, which typically are hanging loose -- see if you can find them first. For alternative location of the connector, see post #40 of: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192583&highlight=abs+light&page=2 Edited November 20, 2010 by OB99W Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 Ok its no where anywhere on the gas pedal side, its right bove the clutch pedal, and on ours those green connectors are hook up, not lose un connected. should they not be connected??? And so far the ABS light only goes off and back on once and just stays on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 (edited) Ok still no codes, gonna un-do the battery for a while so it forgets and maybe relearn the codes. Other problem I found was on the inline fuses on a bundle of wire, 2 30amp fuses on fat red wire and a 10 on a small white, the one 30amp fused and holder where melted pretty bad yet the fuse never popped. Wonder if a 30 is to big then? I trimmed up the connector and put in a new fuse why it doesn't look bad in the pic. and a better shot of the ABS connector, that is above where the clutch pedal would be. Very hard to get a pic on your back. Though its easy to find as its nearly right above the regular OBD2 scanner port thats on the lower dash plastic. Edited November 21, 2010 by Buick350X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Any clues or hints why Im not getting any flash codes form the ABS even though the light is on???? Goes off then back on once and thats its. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Any clues or hints why Im not getting any flash codes form the ABS even though the light is on????[...] What procedure are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 What procedure are you using? The direction in the first post. plug the leads into 3 and 6 have tried it with the green plug still connected and un-done, as they are un-done in the first pic. But Im not getting any codes. It goes off and back on once and thats it, just sits there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 You should only need a ground pin in one of either 3 or 6 -- I can't remember which one, but it's definitely only one needed on mine (1995 legacy ABS 5.3) The green plug is to do with monitoring ECU codes and doesn't have anything to do with ABS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 The direction in the first post. plug the leads into 3 and 6[...] Well, that's wrong. I've linked to the factory info -- why not try it that way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Well, that's wrong. I've linked to the factory info -- why not try it that way? link?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Well speak up louder , whole point of this thread was the make it simple, you just keep refering to a pdf file. And yes so far this thread is all wrong, plug location and how to pull codes. only ground pin 6, I get code 27 rear left ABS sensor, but no auto part site list it, I hope its not dealer $$$ only parts??? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Take it out and clean it first, it may have metal debris on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Well speak up louder , whole point of this thread was the make it simple, you just keep refering to a pdf file. And yes so far this thread is all wrong, plug location and how to pull codes. only ground pin 6, I get code 27 rear left ABS sensor, but no auto part site list it, I hope its not dealer $$$ only parts??? used is probably a good choice. these thing can get glommed up with rust filings, or boogered by debris but failure is pretty rare. so used is a good choice if you in fact need one. could just be a connection or the tone ring. pull the wheel and rotor and take a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 link?? Yes, John, see post #6 of this thread and the link to the NASIOC thread at the end (see post #40 of that thread). It shows where to find the connector (for a particular arrangement), how to read the codes, and what they mean. Well speak up louder , whole point of this thread was the make it simple, you just keep refering to a pdf file. I'm sure bstone was well-intentioned in trying to "make it simple", but sometimes that leaves out important info. The pages shown in the NASIOC thread has step-by-step instructions, and complete info. And yes so far this thread is all wrong, plug location and how to pull codes.Subaru has moved the location of the diagnosis connector a few times, and admittedly even the factory manual can be wrong in that respect. Once you find the connector, the rest of the factory info can be applied, and it's pretty straightforward. only ground pin 6, Yes, that's correct to retrieve the ABS code(s). I get code 27 rear left ABS sensor, but no auto part site list it, I hope its not dealer $$$ only parts??? You left out part of what code 27 signifies. Yes, it refers to the rear left ABS sensor, but also importantly "Abnormal ABS sensor (Open circuit or input voltage too high)". That means either the sensor itself is electrically bad, or there's a bad connection to it, somewhere between it and the ABS ECU. The suggestions to clean the sensor or tone ring could be useful if the problem was a bad signal (code 28), but not in this case. If you know how to use an ohmmeter, or have a friend who does, you could do some further checking. Otherwise, replacing the sensor is probably the way to go. Being in NW Ohio, you may find it difficult to remove the original sensor, due to rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 (edited) Gonna hafta play with it, dealers say its $170 online from dealer direct parts, its $112, still not great. Edited November 23, 2010 by Buick350X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Gonna hafta play with it, [...] You could check for corrosion at the wheel sensor connector, or damaged wiring. With an ohmmeter, you could check the resistance of the working rear sensor versus the non-working one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Took a look at it and the connector must be inside the car. The wire form the sensors run outs the drum, up the LCA, then into the floor. Id almost expect the connector to be under the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Yes, the connector is under the rear seat. Remove it/tilt it up (if it is a wagon) and peel back some sticky foam stuff and you will see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Well dealerdirectparts.com was the cheapest price, $112 with free fedex ground, 12 month 12,000miles warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Well dealerdirectparts.com was the cheapest price, $112 with free fedex ground, 12 month 12,000miles warranty. Since it appears that the expense of the part is important to you, I'd suggest trying to find someone with an ohmmeter to help you verify the original sensor is bad before replacing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wang6176820 Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 (edited) it took me almost half day but i still can't find the connector and the probes for the ABS codes. Finally, I found them. Here is how: My Subaru is 1999 Outback,I'm in Australia. In America this car maybe called Liberty. My connector's color for ABS is white, not black!! That's why it took me half day to find it. I was looking for the 'black' connector. In my car it is not black. And the probes were wrapped in tape, you can't see them at all. The easy way to find them is that you should find the small green connectors first, which near the steering column. The green connectors are not connected, just hanging there. Then in the same loom you can find a white bigger connector, this white connector is the one for my car's ABS codes. And this white connector has more than 6 pins. You just need to use the one at the right bottom corner on this connector( similar position like the pin 6 on the black connector which was mentioned at the beginning of this thread). Then you can see two black wires bend into the tape. Unwrap the tape, you'll see the two probes. Then follow the method which was mentioned at the beginning of this thread, and you can get the ABS error codes! The error codes for my car were for ABS module and LF abs censor. I changed the ABS module first, cleared the code, started my car, the ABS light still on, I drove my car for one minute, and the ABS light went off! Even no need to change the sensor. it's a bit strange, but no ABS light on anymore. Good luck. Edited June 21, 2016 by wang6176820 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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