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Pushbutton Loyale 5-speed P/T 4WD Vs WRX Engine


soobydoo
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I have seen a lot about EA to EJ swaps but couldnt find a thread to completely provide the answer.Just wondering how a pushbutton Loyale tranny from '90-'94 would hold up against a much higher powered engine like the WRX...without causing the so called "tranny grenade".Will soon have access to an 88 wagon and had a project in mind...of course going the EJ direction while ditching the D/R tranny(from what I understand,its a weaker tranny for higher powered engines).

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That would ENTIRELY depend on how you drive it. yea, I bet if you engaged 4WD, you COULD blow it up in a few minutes.

 

 

But if you were smart....it would last quite some time. I have seen no reason to suspect that an EA82 transmission is any less strong than early EJ ones. A friend of mine put a modded EJ205 in front of a '94 Legacy transmission with over 200k hard miles. After more than a year (including many ice racing and RallyX events), the clutch disc failed, but the transmission was still usable (synchro's getting rough...).

 

 

Also, I don't know who told you the D/R would be weaker, but I want whatever they're on as it's obviously pretty good.

 

 

 

That said, I would highly recommend using a different transmission for 2 reasons.

 

A: clutch. the best clutch you can get off the shelf for the EA82 transmission is an XT6 clutch. which will not hold up to anywhere near the torque put out by an EJ205.

 

B: a single-range PT4WD is pretty much the worst combination for any use. true 4WD is only good for slow-speed offroading. Which would be much better with a low range and no turbo. Street use means you're FWD....which doesn't really need explanation. And low traction circuits, a locked center just induces understeer (certainly with EA82 suspension geometry!).

 

 

Going to an EJ-series AWD transmission will give you much better clutch options, and much better handling in most uses.

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Thanks a lot for all the useful info(I hope that the main SUBARU PLANT guys in Japan or here in the US get to visit this site)...will be posting some more info here,once I obtain the car and as I make progress with the work...will definitely still need help and advise.

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Also, I don't know who told you the D/R would be weaker, but I want whatever they're on as it's obviously pretty good.

 

 

It's the input shaft.

 

The D/R have a 2 piece input shaft. Hi range is when the shafts are locked toghether end to end by a collar, and acts as if it was one piece (directly driven)

 

Lo range shafts are seperated, Input power goes through a set of reduction gears and drives the rest of shaft at a reduced speed.

 

It really all comes down to the very small shift collar that locks the shaft in high range. That collar breaks, or the teeth it engages strip (seen it) and the car goes nowhere.

 

 

The S/R boxes use the same one piece input shaft as the early AWD EJ boxes.

 

I have a S/R pushbutton in my 89 GL, with a 96 EJ22 in front of it. Not WRX power, but still gets up QUICK.

 

I love the S/R. Quick engagement without having to move my hand off the shifter. And the lack of a D/R lever means there is lots of room for my dual ebrake handles......

 

With EJ power, locked 4wd, and dual E-brakes, The car is good enough for any of the light Offroading I would do with it. (It's only got 205/70/15 tires and no lift) It's really more of my Daily Driver and Road Trip car, not a wheeler (6" lifted, EJ'd 84 wagon for that)

 

And the most awesome reason to use a S/R..........you can put the guts into an EJ case halves (S/R tailsection) and bolt it to the EJ without an adapter. This allows the use of a Full EJ clutch set and you get true 4wd. And best possible gas milage.

 

Only time I would like to have AWD is when I tow a trailer. The front wheel spin and lifting of the nose get bad when towing. AWD would make that nicer.

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