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1997 Subaru Legacy GT 2.5 Newbe, Help with Mods, Please.


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I just bought this car for a pretty good deal and I'm looking to start upgrading some affordable things to fix it up the best I can. Oh and it is a automatic...

 

1. Is there a certain type of tune up or little things I could do to improve preformace? Its had all the fluids changed, etc. But is there anything else I can do. I just want it to be in top notch shape and last a long time. Spark plugs and wires, etc, anything else?

 

2. I'm thinking about a new exhaust system. Can anyone recomend a good inexpensive one? I'm not much on having a loud or better sound. I'm looking more for preformance. I know it needs a new front end exhaust pipe/Y pipe.

 

3. From my research a cold air intake would be a good mod.

 

If theres anything I didnt mention please let me know. Im not a car person but I love Subarus and would love to fix this one up nicely. Any help would be great.

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I understand wanting to play with your car and give it some more juice, but you will find little satisfaction with some of the typical mods. A cold air intake will not give anything more than the sound of air through the pipe. Take a look at the air intake system you already have; Subaru installs cold air intakes from the factory, just not one with a nice shiny chrome pipe. IMO the best mods to make are found in the suspension. You won't want to go anywhere near a turbo setup on the 2.5 DOHC, so greater power is not a bolt-on operation either. Some else on the board posted about installing 2002 WRX strut assemblies, and I have 02 WRX brakes on my 99 GT. There are lot of parts that swap out between models, you just have to do some poking around to find out which ones. Little things like strut tower bars and endlinks and such can be had from the aftermarket as well. You are going to find very little available to make the car go faster, so I would make it stick harder in corners and have more fun with what the car was meant to do; get sideways.

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+1 on the getting sideways and on the suspension mods :lol: A lot of parts are interchangeable from other models to make it stop and handle better. You wont gain much but noise with and exhaust and an intake unfortunately, the factory systems are pretty free flowing.

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You don't mention, or receipts of past maintenance work. If it were me, I would be concerned about the timing belt. If it is old and breaks, it will cause damage to the valves, and cause a big repair bill. If you don't know how old it is, then replace it, along with the tension-er pulley, water pump, and front crank seal. Others may chime in with other maintenance as well. All the above items were listed as a group, because all are easily accessible when the timing belt is replaced.

 

Have fun with your new Subie. Given some TLC maintenance, your car can easily run for 300K miles.

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get rid of the resonator and the factory muffler. get a 2 1/4 inch Thrush muffler (actual muffler not a glasspack. they are a knock off of flowmasters) they will fit up in the factory location for the muffler, you just have to rotate the muffler a little bit to make it fit. That will make the car sound a hell of a lot better. You wont notice much power wise, but with most exhausts you dont notice it very much compared to what you hear.

 

Leave the air intake alone, no turbos. 2.5 DOHC naturally aspirated engines will not handle forced induction. The compression ratio is simply too high for that, the head gaskets are already prone to blowing so turbo/SC would increase the failure rate.

 

Get a good set of coilovers and drop the car a inch or two. heavy sway bars, bigger rims, wider tires, brake upgrades is what I would start with. Make it handle better... most of the time Handling > Power

 

Oh and btw, check the timing belt. if it needs replaced make sure you check all the idler pulleys and their bearings and check the breakaway pressure of the tensioner. it should take a certain amount of pressure to make the tensioner collapse and then it should only go so far in in a set amount of time. I dont know the exact numbers on them because I've done so many of them that I just do them by feel in a vice. it should take around a minute or two to collapse the tensioner in a vice, and you dont use much pressure (one hand turning the vice handle and you shouldnt be straining yourself. your weight leaning on the handle should be enough force)

 

Also while you are in there, replace all 4 cam seals, front main seal (also know as timing cover seal) water pump, oil pump seal and o-ring, clean the grease off the cam and crank sensor surfaces, degrease the front of the engine. use non chloroninated brake clean (green CRC can @ napa)

 

Use NGK G-Power spark plugs gapped at .044, use NGK 8mm wires (if you can find them for a 2.5 DOHC)

Clean MAF with MAF cleaner (dont use anything other than MAF cleaner. Other chemicals can ruin the sensor)

Clean IAC (idle air controller, you can use MAF cleaner or non chloro brake clean. make sure to turn the vane inside the controller so you get all the carbon out of it.

Clean throttle body and butterfly

Replace valve cover gaskets

Edited by torxxx
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  • 1 year later...

Hi I have the exact same car only mines a manual and I'm also new to subarus. I've been told that the 2.5 is able to handle forced induction? And I've also heard that buying a header will give it a little more kick and improve sound alot. But I've also been really curious about performance chips? Are there any good ones on the market that don't cost an arm and a leg?

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Edited by Shellhammer13
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And just out of curiosity, if I pull the motor how mechanically inclined would one have to be to change the head gasket? My local Subaru dealer ship priced me at 1800$ for the job so I was thinking about doing it my self. And I've heard of full metal gaskets? Is that worth looking into?

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Shops, esp dealers, often quite a pretty high price for that job because of the labor. I think someone mentioned it is around 11 hours depending on what book you use.

 

I believe for your engine Subaru issued multi layer steel (MLS) HG's. Someone who does these regularly such as grossgary could probably give you the part # to get, because sometimes shops have old style laying on the shelf or you get a different superseded part #. There's a few other steps involved, such as proper cleaning, possible milling of the heads/surface finish, and the right tightening sequence and torque for the HG's you get.

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I've been told that the 2.5 is able to handle forced induction?

 

Sure! The question is for how long :D

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2199333&highlight=ej25+turbo

 

The '99 Outback, AFAIK, has the same engine your car has.

 

PD: For soobie performance mods check NASIOC. From my experience USMB is the place to go if you want to increase the reliability of your car without breaking the bank. You'll find excellent advise here, including some on performance mods (like the concise post by Torxxx), but NASIOC seems to be the playground of people who don't mind having to replace the engine from time to time to get there a few seconds earlier :)

 

Edit: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=50

And then... this: http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=22065

Edited by jarl
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I've got a 98 Outback and I have to say I've got less than $500 in hop up goodies on my ride and it's a night and day difference. Best things to do are getting rid of the "snorkus" in the passenger fenderwell (behind the fender liner where the air comes into the airbox in the engine bay) (free BTW), an E-bay intake from an RS Impreza works but stock is good, a Borla knockoff header if you want more power and noise and a couple ponies more (5ish), intake manifold spacers from Grimmspeed, and if you can find it a Group A throttle body spacer. I have all but the header and granted not a powerhouse but she'll pull all the way to red line now :headbang:. Rear strut brace is highly recommended for the corners so your rear wont try to come out and pass ya by, and try to find a rear sway bar from a 96-99 Outback as they are larger than the rest too.

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