Suba9792 Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 So here is a clip of my mystery rattle in my 97 Lego 2.2, it only does the rattle at about 2k, but after driving for awhile and I shut it off for about 15-20min it goes away, any ideas! please help me!!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHDHxvkoMrQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 this is a long shot, but... could it be the knock sensor? the reason why I ask this is because about 6 months ago I was driving along when it threw a code and ran like crap! bad plug wire, so then it did it again( I used Napa wires:banghead:) could it have damaged the sensor some how? causing ignition problems ans spark knock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 I do know that the EJ22 dont tend to have much piston slap. At least thats what I have read its mainly the 2.5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzam Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 I have a 97 2.2 with piston slap and it does not sound like that. The slap is throughout the RPM range and quiets down after warming up. Maybe a bad tensioner pulley? When were the belts last serviced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 go to harbor freight and get an automotive stethoscope. it's about 5$. you will be able to pin point the noise in minutes. it isn't brain surgery quality but it works. http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 20, 2010 Author Share Posted November 20, 2010 Its not an issue I can pin point with a stethoscope, since it only does it in gear while moving around 2k and above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 Its not an issue I can pin point with a stethoscope, since it only does it in gear while moving around 2k and above. not in neutral at around 2k? is it cv related?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 no dont think its CV related since its only at a certain RPM around 2k and above, but it doesnt do it when I decelerate. The funny thing is when I drive it for about 20 min then shut it down for 15-30 the sound isnt there, kind odd I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 Does it happen in every gear, or just one specific gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick350X Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 Well you know then that its not a crticial noise, those never go away and get louder with RPM. Noises that go away once warmed up are not always bad. Probably why ya think only driving for 20min then letting it sits makes it go away. Would probably go away if you drove for 35-50 min, which is way to long for any internal engine parts to get warm and expand so it must be external and once its finally get nice and heat soaked, it expaned enough not to rattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmithmmx Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 Thats good old piston slap. Since is it is getting colder you are going to hear it more. I have the same thing and goes away in 10 minutes. I have been driving with it for 100K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 if it was piston slap shouldnt it go away, I dont think others are getting the idea, it DOESNT GO AWAY unless I shut the car off and wait 15-20 min then restart, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzam Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 I have a 97 2.2 with piston slap and it does not sound like that. The slap is throughout the RPM range and quiets down after warming up. Maybe a bad tensioner pulley? When were the belts last serviced? I'm still asking about the last service on belts and tensioners. What was replaced and when? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 The belt,tensioners,WP,oil pump seal,idlers etc was all done less than a month ago, and I'm 100% sure its not that, reason being is GD did it for me, so its ruled out IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 I'm wondering if may be a valve clatter, but wouldnt that make noise even sitting still in neutral at idle or revving it? I have been noticing 2nd gear is getting a little tight getting into gear sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 21, 2010 Author Share Posted November 21, 2010 we shall see what it is tuesday since I'm bringing it to GD for a look over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 Yeah - the whole front of the engine is new and the noise was apparently there before (though it wouldn't do it for me of course) - it is unchanged by the replacement of the complete timing set. So we can rule out all that for certain. Thus I would think it's either a valve train noise, or something to do with the clutch components - those are the two theories right now. Since it hasn't blown a rod out the top of the engine I would tend to rule that out as well since it's being daily driven. As loud as it is it would have let go by now. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 (edited) Tried putting a foot on the clutch pedal when it starts making this noise? (seems like I might have suggested that before... ) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=965497&postcount=8 Edited November 22, 2010 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 22, 2010 Author Share Posted November 22, 2010 the foot on the clutch thing does seem to make a diff, if it were a rod I'd probably hear it no matter what gear at idle etc, but valves could be a culprit, the clutch is of an unknown brand, I was an amateur before I got on here so I may have had a shady job done. PS still learning:lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 So, I was going to take it today to GD to look at but some other crap came up(work). . here are all the symptoms of the problem from start up to restart- Start the car I do a complete warm up, little piston slap for about 30sec then it goes away. No tapping sound backing up, now once I take off I hear the tapping, it seems in sync with engine RPM and MPH. While driving, if I let off the pedal a little it goes away, but when I give it a little gas it comes back in every gear. It feels a little jumpy taking off in first, second gear is a bit rough getting into gear. Going down the road it feels jerky almost like something isn't grabbing right.(most likely my shot struts, feeling every bump) After about 20-30min Ill shut it down and wait for about 15min or so then restart it..nothing sound completly goes away(most of the time). Here are my amateur theory's- Valves are WAY out of adjustment, possibly hung open. I called the dealer and they said you would hear a valve no matter if you at idle,accelerating,decelerating etc. so that may be ruled out?? Cracked flywheel, and or bad clutch componets, I had the clutch done at TransMedic in Gresham OR, about 2 years ago, they only charged me $475.00 parts and labor with 1 year warranty, sounds pretty low to me now that I am learning more about them. I think its possible they used a real piss poor clutch kit, and forgot to put the pin things on right for the TOB. I do however have blown struts(have them on order) and I am rebooting the pass side CV, it tore and shot grease in the wheel well. I'm also replacing the ball joint as well, but a CV should not be in harmony with the engine RPM right?? Things that have been done recently- New T-belt,tensioner idlers,WP reseal the oil pump,new thermostat all by GD. New coil pack,plug wires,NGK plugs properly gaped. New fuel filter,air filter,PCV valve(probably wasn't bad). Oil changed 500 miles ago Castrol Syntec Blend 5w-30. Any ideas?? valves, crappy clutch, or is my tranny just doomed. I read online that "sometimes" bad suspension components can cause alot of strange clicking and tapping. If it was a rod, or engine bearing I think it would be fairly obvious even in neutral at idle, and GD even listened to the car and didn't hear any knocking- minus the short term piston slap. I'm blaming cutch componets:lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 23, 2010 Author Share Posted November 23, 2010 oh yea the car only has 142k on the OD. And its a 97 2.2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 You gotta have some kinda tricks to crack a manual trans flywheel. I'd rate that around - (negative) 10% chance of being the problem. Clutch job at a shop for $475. That sounds right for an independent/shadetree mechanic, but a couple hundred low for a full kit and labor at an independent shop. I would suspect they just replaced the disc, and left the pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing alone. Valve adjustment, no. That engine has hydraulic lash adjusters ( I think) so adjustment is done automatically. Might be a lifter bleeding down, but those are pretty distinct. Lifter noise doesn't just come and go with throttle application. If it's there it will be evident, and when it's gone it will pretty much stay gone unless there is some sort of oil pressure problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 a 97 2.2 is going to have a solid valvetrain, no HLAs. So it should be adjusted at 105k? Whatever it is, somewhere around there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 a 97 2.2 is going to have a solid valvetrain, no HLAs.So it should be adjusted at 105k? Whatever it is, somewhere around there. Correct - 105k on the '97+ EJ22's. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Yeah, I thought the dealer was wrong with the valve adjustment bit. I called them and gave them the vin since we got the car from my wife's grandparents and the had all the scheduled maintenance done at the dealer, they said they didnt see a record of a valve adjustment. I'm gonna try to get it to GD as soon as I can, since it is in harmony with engine RPM I'm thinking valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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