SPFI EA82 (Clearing Codes) ?

[TheLoyale]

I'm a bit fuzzy on the whole "Clearing Code" thing with the EA82. Do you plug both the White and Green connectors in under the hood and then run the car? From what I've read else where, you have to:

 

With engine hot, plug in Both sets of connectors while engine is running. Then drive the car over 7mph.

 

D-Check, Plug in Green connectors with engine hot and off. Then turn the key to "On" push peddle to the floor then up half way for 2-sec, release and start car and drive over 7mph.

 

I don't understand this, I can't get the Engine light to do anything other then come on and off once in a while. I can not get it to flash to read the codes nor can I erase the codes.

 

What am I doing wrong? The reason I have this light was a faulty O2 sensor which I replaced.

 

-Tom

[TomRhere]

The "check engine light" does not flash the codes. The ECU has a light on it that flashes the codes.

 

Not positive here, but thinking that you can clear any codes by disconnecting the battery for awhile.

[TheLoyale]

Oh, theres a light on the ECU!? Would there be a reset button on it aswell? I should have looked at the extra ECU Fox has so I can get a real good look at the whole thing, rather then trying to cram my head under the dash

 

Thanks Tom, I'll check that out today. And as for unplugging the battery, I tried that, doesn't clear it. Unless I have to leave it off longer?

[mudduck]

A piece of black tape makes that check engine light go away

[TheLoyale]

A piece of black tape makes that check engine light go away

 

 

I have done that to a BMW 320i once. Lol!

[ruparts]

Oh, theres a light on the ECU!? Would there be a reset button on it aswell? I should have looked at the extra ECU Fox has so I can get a real good look at the whole thing, rather then trying to cram my head under the dash

 

Thanks Tom, I'll check that out today. And as for unplugging the battery, I tried that, doesn't clear it. Unless I have to leave it off longer?

 

hi, yes its a little led light inside a little hole in the case, no reset button as far as i know. the codes start with the lowest numbered one first and runs through them all to the highest numbered one and then it begins a repeat . you must have read the book judging from your first post so you might have cleared the codes already, there is a sequence of flashes that indicate no codes present , but i don't remember what it is offhand. maybe 4 short and does not repeat, something like that.

[TheLoyale]

See, thats the funny thing. Long ago when I first got the car, the engine light was on. It would come on after start up and then start flashing non-stop for as long as it was running. I found out that ment there are no codes in the system. So I always thought the "Engine Light" flashed the code.

 

The book (Chilton) says you have to drive over 7mph to enter the system, if so. how do you look at the ECU and drive? Will it just keep flashing the error code even after you stop?

 

As for clearing the code, I have not. The light still comes on and off whenever it wants. I thought I read somewhere that this is a sign of a bad or going ECU?

 

At least the car runs just fine!

[ruparts]

See, thats the funny thing. Long ago when I first got the car, the engine light was on. It would come on after start up and then start flashing non-stop for as long as it was running. I found out that ment there are no codes in the system. So I always thought the "Engine Light" flashed the code.

 

The book (Chilton) says you have to drive over 7mph to enter the system, if so. how do you look at the ECU and drive? Will it just keep flashing the error code even after you stop?

 

As for clearing the code, I have not. The light still comes on and off whenever it wants. I thought I read somewhere that this is a sign of a bad or going ECU?

 

At least the car runs just fine!

 

hi, the engine light , and the code read light , are two different things.

if you want to read the codes stored in the ecm , plug in the proper read memory connectors and follow the directions . the ecm light will flash the codes,, starting with the lowest number code it has stored , and proceeds to the next , and the next , until it has shown all the codes stored ,,, at which point it will start over again, it continues to flash the codes till you turn off the ignition switch or disconnect the test connectors. you need a pencil and paper to write down any codes so you don't get lost in all those flashes,, and like i said the entire sequence of stored codes will repeat ... longs flashes are= 10 , shorts flashes are = 1 ... longish pauses are the interval between each of the numbered code flashes.

be sure you understand how to read the flashes ..

the engine light is a different issue, fixing any codes shown in the ecm may likely fix the engine light.

[TheLoyale]

Oh I see. Ok thank you!

 

I'm used to the old GMs, where the Engine Light doubles as the Code Light.

 

Thanks guys!

[Gloyale]

Try connecting just the White connectors. This will output any stored codes (as oppossed to the green "d-check" which runs a diagnostic, and gives you "active" codes)

 

Same thing.......white connectors, start, drive over 1 mph (IDK where the hell CHiltons gets 7......that is not in the FSM anywhere), you mayu also need to keep the PRMS over 2000 for 30-40 seconds (that is in the FSM)

 

If there is a code, the CEL will come on steady.

 

The ECU will start blinking codes if any are stored.

 

If there are no codes, the ECU will blink steady, and the ECU light will flash a steady 5 or 6 blinks or something (there is a ID codes to these blinks as well, different for different models, AT, MT, SPFI, MPFI, CAL, 49st, etc....)

[TheLoyale]

Ok, I will do this when

 

Yeah you can't trust Chilton all the time, some of their torque specs are wrong aswell

 

Thanks!