Rear recovery with hitch 2002 OBW, d-shackles?

[lesstutrey]

I have a 2002 OBW VDC with a tow hitch. Pretty sure the hitch is factory, though it's a class II, but for some reason it has a bolt right through the tow eye in the rear. Anyway, what is the best method to pull my car out from behind, given i have a 3500lb rated hitch, that i think is factory. My tow strap is loop ends, no hooks. Should i weld something in?

 

I am also looking into purchasing a d-shackle (or pair) for my front eye. When hooking up the d-shackle should i be hooking the pin through the eye, or run the shackle through the eye... it seems like i should be putting the pin in the towing eye.

 

I also looked at a winch hook instead of d-shackles, it was like 6$, G43 steel at 5/8" giving it roughly 13,000lb SWL with a half inch or so clovis pin that doesn't screw into place (just a little key pin). Would that work in place of a d-shackle for front tow point hookup? I am avoiding hook tow ropes at all costs.

 

Current plans: Primitive 3/16 FBA and 2" strut lift in the near future, king springs this spring or fall, bigger tires, and a full size spare, when this set wears out, and of course finishing up all the off-road survival gear i need. I'll be sure to post plenty of pictures of mods, and be hitting trails in the Midwest next summer, and the snow this winter.

[Scoobywagon]

I would think the thing to do would to build a tongue for your receiver hitch with a pintle or clevis on it. At least, that's what I would do.

[lesstutrey]

I thought about a couple things here. If i went to make a d-shackle hookup out of a piece of 1 1/4" steel the hole needed for a shackle up to par would have a pin too thick to have strenght left on the hitch after it was drilled out. 1/2" pin leaves me 3/8" of steel on each side of the hitch... is that even enough for it not to break when loaded? I could probably just take a regular hitch and drill it out if i wanted to go this route.

 

Actually looking at 1/2" shackles in the 4000-6000 pound range they have 5/8's inch pin.. so a 1/16th less per side on the drill spot.

Edited November 27, 2010 by lesstutrey

[nipper]

The tow strap range should be the highest you can afford, at least triple the load. Trailer hitch is not the best place to yank from depending upon how stuck you are. Lost traction it is fine. In a hole not the best point. The hitch is rated (lets say) 2000 lb. the car is 3200-3500 ish (I forget). In a hole it may take more then that to get it moving. I have seen hitches ripped out of frames because of this.

 

On a D shackle the strap goes around the pin if possible. the load being pulled should be centered on the shackle. Using the pin side will cock the shackle and possibly damage the pin.

 

http://www.yotatech.com/wiki/index.php/Recovery_Gear_Proper_Use_Of

 

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/4x4-off-road-tech/102363-proper-use-d-shackle-recovery-strap.html

 

Look at the vehical and the bottom of the page

 

http://www.okoffroad.com/stuff-shackles.htm

 

He has his D rings mounted properly, since he can center the lad on the pins. in a strap situation, the strap centers the load on the pin. The retaining pin or pin threads are not made to hold up to a side load,

[lesstutrey]

Thanks for the link on proper recovery. I have a 2" 30' 15000lb strap, i went as high as possible in 2" at the store i went to. What size shackle fits the 2002 OBW, can it take 3/4" ?

I am still stumped as how to pull my car out from the rear. I need to use the hitch once in a while so i can't lose it. Hitch is rated at 3500lbs, however car is 2000lbs towing limit, so yeah probably rip off if i did that. What are my options then. I can weld something on if need be.. but dunno where a good point would be. I just need to figure out a rear tow point in case i go headlong into a ditch. I could also reinforce the hitch to some other point is need be to make it stronger so it won't rip out...

 

It's funny you link to an FJ Cruiser site, my OBW was a trade in for a 2010 FJ Cruiser before i purchased it.

Edited November 27, 2010 by lesstutrey

[nipper]

Thanks for the link on proper recovery. Ok, i am still stumped as how to pull my car out from the rear. I need to use the hitch once in a while so i can't lose it. Hitch is rated at 3500lbs, however car is 2000lbs towing limit, so yeah probably rip off if i did that. What are my options then. I can weld something on if need be.. but dunno where a good point would be. I just need to figure out a rear tow point in case i go headlong into a ditch.

 

 

You have no recovery hooks in the rear?

[lesstutrey]

according to my manual there is one tow hook in the rear of my car. However the hitch i have hooks into that. It's got a bolt going right through it. I don't even know if the bolt is needed, seems like it's there to add strength to towing ability. Think i can just plain ditch it? Based on how these things install, this shouldn't be a mount point at all really... Or do you think the increased strength this adds makes recovery with the hitch possible? On the other side there is a screw in one of the two "tie down" eyes that connects to the hitch as well. Perhaps i could permanent mount a d-shackle there?

 

Here is the the "tow eye" on the left side of the car, the only one that is supposed to be a tow point..

IMG_2056 by lesstutrey, on Flickr

IMG_2055 by lesstutrey, on Flickr

here is that screw on drivers side "tie down" loop.

IMG_2058 by lesstutrey, on Flickr

[nipper]

If it is possible can you put that back with a high strength bolt? the closer you can get a tow point to the "frame" of the car the better off you are.

[WoodsWagon]

Just pull from the hitch. Get a receiver plug that has a hole on the end for hooking a ring through and you should be good. The hitch is mounted to both tow hooks and has bolts through the framerails, it's plenty strong. It also is in the same horizontal plane as the framerails, so there isn't much up or down leverage on it to tear it off the car. You should be fine.

 

I have towed ungodly loads with the stock tie down points on my subarus. It also often involved getting a run at whatever I was pulling and bouncing off the end of the strap. Never even tweaked the tie down points, broke a bunch of good straps.

[lesstutrey]

Just pull from the hitch. Get a receiver plug that has a hole on the end for hooking a ring through and you should be good. The hitch is mounted to both tow hooks and has bolts through the framerails, it's plenty strong. It also is in the same horizontal plane as the framerails, so there isn't much up or down leverage on it to tear it off the car. You should be fine.

 

I have towed ungodly loads with the stock tie down points on my subarus. It also often involved getting a run at whatever I was pulling and bouncing off the end of the strap. Never even tweaked the tie down points, broke a bunch of good straps.

 

Can't find a tongue like that for 1 1/4 hitch. Best i can do is strap a d shackle into a hitch. It would have it mounted so the pin is perpendicular with the road.. and would give side to side play. the 1 1/4" hitches are 3/4 hole and 3/4 thick.

Edited November 27, 2010 by lesstutrey

[idosubaru]

i'd trust a hitch in good condition. yours seems a little rusty (everything does in the rust belt ) and i could be wrong but that bolt through the tow hook area looks kind of small.

 

we have very similar cars - mine is a 02 OBW VDC...looks like it might even be the same color. i installed a new hitch when i got it. it was only like $100-$150 so if you think yours is old, rusted, or could use better hardware maybe that's another option if you're going to be going that heavy duty and hardcore with it.

 

it mounted through the frame rails like he mentioned, i can't imagine that not holding. upgrading the bolts or making sure they are all properly installed might be a good idea in case the previous owner that installed it (if it wasn't you) didn't follow through with it all, some people just use that stuff for bike racks and small stuff.

[lesstutrey]

integrity of mounts on the thing isn't gone. No rust really except those spots that probably scraped the ground one or two times. I might paint the ends to stop the cancer a bit, i'm hoping not to have to use it for hauling myself out, it's a just in case scenario. I will use it to haul a 220lb tank on a motorcycle trailer, though i doubt that's gonna put much strain on it, since i'll only be driving 40 miles round trip and pulling 500lbs or so tops. Will make sure it's all bolted up, though i know the top bolts are on the left side.

 

Yeah, mine's a 2002 OBW VDC too, regetta red with tan leather interior Can't wait for lifts and skid plates.

[idosubaru]

i figured it was all surface rust, nearly impossible to not have that.

 

yep, same as mine, red, leather, etc....hitch too. sounds like it's about to change though, good luck!

[Gloyale]

I need to use the hitch once in a while so i can't lose it. Hitch is rated at 3500lbs, however car is 2000lbs towing limit, so yeah probably rip off if i did that. .

 

I don't think you're in any danger of ripping off the hitch.

 

I've pulled alot of subies out of alot of places, and never ripped a proper tow hitch off.

 

Think about it. If the hitch weren't there, you'd be hooking to the tow loops in the rear. That means all the weight of the car, on one hook.

 

Now, think bout the hitch. The hitch is bolted to BOTH of the hooks, as well as into the bumper/body at 2 points. So 4 good solid connection points spread load around the whole rear of the body.

 

That is a way stronger setup than pulling from a single hook. FWIW, I have seen the single hooks rip out of the body.....only on rusty rigs though.

[johnceggleston]

Now, think bout the hitch. The hitch is bolted to BOTH of the hooks, as well as into the bumper/body at 2 points. So 4 good solid connection points spread load around the whole rear of the body.

 

 

are you worried about a one time event, it's in a ditch now and you have to pull it out? or are you thinking of off roading and planning ahead for the day you get into something you can't get out of?

 

the manner of the extraction may be more important than what you hook to. if you ''jerk it'' out you may damage something regardless of what you hook to. on the other hand if you slowly pull or ease it out it probably doesn't matter if it is hitch or hook.

 

i have read about guys using high end tow straps to ''snatch' or ''jerk'' a car out, but having no experience in this i would be reluctant to try this with my car or to recommend it.

[lesstutrey]

How about a two inch adapter that is actually rated for towing (not just one rated for bicycle carriers) and then a solid 5/8" hitch pin for the 2" receiver, and recovery strap having the hitch pin go through the loop? Someone on the outback site said they did that with their truck, granted it had a native class III or IV hitch, the pin aught to hold up to pulling, i would think.. except for the the warnings that say this cuts your hitch rating in half, but i think that's just for the 2" to 1.25" down-ward adapter . Adding a 2" clevis tongue puts me in the park of thinking about just putting a class III hitch in, if i can find one that mounts on an 02 OBW, so that's why i think the 5/8" hitch pin would be solid..

 

The rust on the passenger side appears to be from scratching the ground, i'm gonna sand it up and paint it. Possibly order a bolt replacement kit from draw-tite. I noticed something else in that picture of the passenger side, by the tow eye. According to the install guide that bolt is WAY bigger than the stock one. The stock one matches the bolt on the drivers side. So they already upgraded the hitch a little. Like i say, previous owner went to a FJ Cruiser, so i'm sure she wasn't cutting corners on hitch install, and probably had the dealer do it.

 

And what size D-Shackle should i order for the front.. or anyone got a link?

Edited November 28, 2010 by lesstutrey

[lesstutrey]

Goyale: got a question for you

 

1. still making lift kits because i want one... it's a 2002 OBW VDC with 4EAT. PM me?

 

Everyone else, and i guess goyale too, PLEASE LINK ME TO A D-Shackle that fits my outback. I noticed the 5/8" ones at like 1 5/8" thick at their widest point, so way too big. Is there a 1/2 or 3/8 shackle that does the 5000WLL and fits through the 1" eye on the front of a outback?

 

For my rear hook i'm gonna buy a mount with a slight rise, or drop depending on if you flip it, tap two 1/2" bolt holes though the part where i get steel from the ball hookup section and the actual tongue, and put a 10,000lb hook on that. Maybe have my friend put a couple more tack welds on the connecting parts. Also looking at a cushioned 1.25" tongue, stick a d-shackle in that, or mount a hook similarly but only to the tongue since it doesn't have a thicker part (and costs 3 times as much at a regular ball mount). I'll make sure the holes i tap will be EXACTLY the right size with probably a rubber mallet to make sure they go through as to minimize weakening of the tongue as much as possible by replacing empty space with bolts.

 

 

 

With the tongues i have 5/8" thickness and 3/4" hole, so i can use them like a proper clevis mount, not have to worry about sticking the loop through the 3/4" ball hole.

 

 

Dunno who made em but i saw hooks that hooked to the bottom tie down points on the front.. brucey from OB.org had one, and i stumbled across the site that made them, can't find it now though.

Edited November 29, 2010 by lesstutrey

[nipper]

Try www.mcmastercarr.com or www.grainger.com

[lesstutrey]

Went to the hardware store today to see what i could do.

 

First i thought i would take a ball hitch mount, tap 2 1/2" holes in it and attach one of the typical 5 ton hooks on to it. Use an extra nut and lock washer as a spacer for the drop on the hitch. Figured i'd be able to tow with a ball hitch on there as well. Looked into that, but thought i found something simpler upon going to screws and bolts isle. It also happens to be where they keep chain and wire fittings. I notice a 3/8" forged hook with a 3.25 WLL and a 1/2 clovis pin. I took the hook and compared it to the hitch i had with me. Seemed like an nice easy fit. No drilling required, just stick the pin in the hitch and blamo.

 

Got my stuff home, and went to put the hook onto the hitch, no dice! I noticed flashing from the forging process (that had been grinned off somewhat) was preventing me from getting the hook on. I i filed down the flashing, i know it weakened the overall strength of the hook, a little by taking about 1/16 of material out, but at 3.25 tons it should still have plenty of strength, and heck the hitch is only rated at 1.75 ton. Guess what? Still didn't fit. I noticed something, the edge of the hitch was flat, and hitting a curved surface, preventing it from going that 1/4" deeper i needed the hook to go to allow me to pin the thing on.

 

Had a couple thoughts, grind down the hitch so it was shorter, file the hole on the hitch a bit bigger , and then the good idea came to me:lol:. Make the end of the hitch match the curved part of the hook! So i took the hitch down to my grinder, and gave the edge a curved lip. Not much of one, mostly just at the direct back. Figured this weakened the hitch as much as possible, instead of shaving 1/4" entirely off, i only did it on the edges. Took the hitch back to my vice, smacked the hitch a few times with a rubber mallet and presto, in place

 

Due to the location of the hook on the hitch, it will not turn. It will only go straight back, no play at all. Had to slightly hammer the clevis pin in, but since it's not a key on a gear, i figured that was ok.

 

 

Also while at the store i came across the same 48" high jack they had been selling for 70$ on sale for 40$. Had to buy it. Grabbed a tree saver, and a snow shovel for the car (already have a tri-fold shovel most of you are familiar with) but i just needed something for volumes of snow, not heavy stuff.

Now i need a 2 ton come along and snatch block to work in conjunction with the high jack, and a high jack accessory kit, so it's more useful than as just a jack, and to get my car up and lifted, and some LT tires on it. And i guess a portable air compressor..

 

 

Here is my beautiful rear hook.

 

Recovery Tongue 1.25" by lesstutrey, on Flickr

Edited November 30, 2010 by lesstutrey