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TomRHere's '88 GL 4WD Wagon


TomRhere
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Got a replacement clock coming. Thanks to SuperBrat.

Got info on the resistor, 750 Ohm x 2 Watt. Thanks to NorthWet.....

 

In the middle of doing rear wheel bearings. Driver's side was piece of cake.. Passenger side however, is wanting to argue. Ring nut seems to have made itself one with the housing. Beat on it for a bit, then sprayed it down with some more Yield, left it to sit overnight. May have to get the "big torch" out and put some heat to it. May drop the arm out to get a better angle on things.

 

Used Mother Nature's freezer to assist in doing the bearing install on the DS.

Once I had everything apart and cleaned the stub shaft up, I put it in a plastic bag and stuck it a snow pile. Greased up the new bearings, grabbed the shaft and basically dropped the bearings into place. Put the assembly back into the bag and the snow pile while I cleaned up the housing. Moved the torpedo heater so it was hitting the housing.Took a much needed beer break. Bearing assembly slid right in with no issue. Installed the seals and put rotor/caliper back on. New tapered and flat washers installed also.

 

Debating on whether to put the rear diff/axles back once I get the PS done.

I dropped that all out last Tuesday in an effort to isolate the noises I was hearing. I pulled the rear section of the driveshaft a few months ago due to bad u-joints. So the diff/axles have just been along for the ride.

I haven't had the extra cash to get the u-joints bought yet, so there's no real reason the put the diff in yet. Cross that bridge when I get to it.

 

It also seems I need to do another bleeding of the brake system. Both rear rotors show very little signs of use, as in, they have a bit of rust on them where the pads hit, not shiney like they should be. Caliper slides are free and lubed. Got to be some air in there some where. Hmm, guess the brakes aren't as good as I thought they were........

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I be one whoopped puppy.....

 

Had to drop the arm out and literally beat the ring nut all the way out. Kept hitting it with the torch and spraying it with Yeild, but it really didn't move much with each blow from my 3-1/2 pound whammer. Probally shortened my punch by a good 1/4" from all of the redressings.

 

After getting things apart and cleaned, I found the reason it was so difficult. Someone had beat the housing in......... Was a nice hammerhead sized dent in it on the lower side, with signs of quite a few blows.

This arm was a used one I swapped in after dragging the Wagon home from Hamilton, Ohio. No clue as to what I actually got it from, was just something I had here.

 

New bearings in, and had to beat the ring nut back in. Sure wishing I had another arm here....

 

Got Del out there to work on her leg muscle tone, and rebled the brakes. Del may turn 60 this June, but she still rocks some nicely shaped legs...... :)

 

Taking me a break for a few, then it's off for a test run. Hopefully, I've fixed the noise issue from the backend.

Didn't put the rear diff back in, I'll wait until I get new u-joints.

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3 mile jaunt to the store and back, and no noise from the back of the Wagon. Well,,,, other than the trim panels making their noises.

 

Brakes are much improved also. So it seems I didn't get them properlly bled the 1st time.

 

We shall see what the trip to/from work tomorrow does.....

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Well other than the wind gusts of 35 - 45 MPH wanting to make the Wagon dance around some, the drive yesterday was nice and uneventfull

 

Glad to have quieted the noise down. Just couldn't figure out what it was before. Even had knowledgable people riding in the backseat that couldn't say what it was, or which side it was coming from.

 

More wrenching slated for this coming weekend....

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All I basically did Thursday and Friday was run errands. But I did manage to do some wrenching yesterday.

 

roundedoffnut.jpg

 

Wasn't coming off under the Wagon, nut was rounded. This is the DS radius rod assembly.

 

 

gotit.jpg

 

After about 2 hours.

 

gotitcloseup.jpg

 

Close up.

 

oldvsnew.jpg

 

New bushings vs old ones.

 

Passenger side was much easier to do.

 

Was wanting to do a paint job on these 1st, but said the hell with it.

 

frontmudflaps.jpg

 

Did spray some paint though.

 

Blackgrille.jpg

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keep the motor running if power washing it. i can't imagine throwing a timing belt unless you are trying to do so with the power stream aiming it at the tensioners.

 

Thanks. If anyone knows about running without the covers, I know you do.

 

When you dropping by again? Been way to long........................

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I think your t belts are a little too tight, they should ride in the center of the pulleys..

 

You know, I wondered about that. But they are riding right where the belts that were on it rode. Hmmm, gotta look into this some more me thinks.

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Thanks. If anyone knows about running without the covers, I know you do.

 

When you dropping by again? Been way to long........................

As soon as i feel like i can drive through Indiana without getting arrested. I might be out that way come memorial or labor day or independence day this summer. I gotta make sure i can afford the trip and the time off. Hopefully i can make it out in my 3door coupe.

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It looks like the bolts are bleeding rust. Gotta love them road salts. I spy a drop of coolant on the corner of the oil pump. Maybe the WP is leaking at the weep hole or the o-ring. In case you haven't noticed already.

 

This picture goes to show how open belts keeps the belts from getting all that oil and coolant funk all over them.

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As soon as i feel like i can drive through Indiana without getting arrested. I might be out that way come memorial or labor day or independence day this summer. I gotta make sure i can afford the trip and the time off. Hopefully i can make it out in my 3door coupe.

 

Brings to mind a song from back in the day. "Indiana wants me, Lord I can't go back there"

 

 

It looks like the bolts are bleeding rust. Gotta love them road salts. I spy a drop of coolant on the corner of the oil pump. Maybe the WP is leaking at the weep hole or the o-ring. In case you haven't noticed already.

 

This picture goes to show how open belts keeps the belts from getting all that oil and coolant funk all over them.

Didn't notice that coolant drip myself this weekend, but I wasn't under the front any. Pics were taken just from holding the camera under there.

Have noticed the level in the overflow tank is down some again.

 

I have oilpan and camcover gaskets. Got to get cam seals and such. Thinking I may go ahead and get the reinforced o-rings and do a cam carrier out reseal.

Runs to damned strong to mess with head gaskets at the moment.

Might as well get o-ring/gasket for the waterpump and all new hoses too. Hoses have been around for a bit.

 

And what say ye about how the t-belts are riding on the sprockets?

Edited by TomRhere
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maybe the crank sprockets are on in the wrong order. Usually the belts ride towards the inside of the cam pulleys, and are tracked in line by the tensioners and flanges on the oil pump and crank spokets. It does look weird on the idler pulley, though.

 

The inner sprocket on the crank should have a flange behind it before the seal.

 

you would never notice this IF YOU HAD TIMING BELT COVERS. This is why we ditch them.

Edited by MilesFox
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maybe the crank sprockets are on in the wrong order. Usually the belts ride towards the inside of the cam pulleys, and are tracked in line by the tensioners and flanges on the oil pump and crank spokets. It does look weird on the idler pulley, though.

 

The inner sprocket on the crank should have a flange behind it before the seal.

 

you would never notice this IF YOU HAD TIMING BELT COVERS. This is why we ditch them.

 

Hmmm. Have to check the crank sprockets. I haven't messed with them myself.

 

Engine is out of the '92 Wagon, PO got it from his Brotther down Indianapolis way. Only work the PO said he did was fix the exhaust system.

I've swapped T-belts, new bearings in tensioners and idler, swapped oil and water pumps.

 

I somewhat recall a thread on here years ago discussing proper placement of the crank sprockets. One sits offset to the other, but I don't recall which one. There's like a 1/2 belt tooth differance between the two, but that's all I remembers.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had to open my mouth about the hoses needing replacement......

Popped one coming home from work Thursday... Roadside fix done and got her in the driveway.

Managed to get the radiator hoses ordered Thursday night, and they were at the parts store Friday.

All installed along with new heater hoses of the generic length of hose there.

 

Headed out to the grocery store for supper fixings, and the "Brake Fluid" light comes on. Auuugh!!!!!!

Brakes seem to be working as they should. More investigation to be done today.

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Brake fluid level was low. Topped it off, and proceeded to inspect all of the lines, hoses, calipers. Nothing showing signs of leaking brake fluid.

So,,, it would seem that I have a leaky master cylinder, and fluid is being pulled into the booster. Then again, that really doesn't seem right either.

No sign of fluid beneath where the m/c bolts to booster. And if the front seal on the booster is bad, I should lose the stored vacuum there, which is not the case either.

 

Going to see if a co-worker has his lift open tomorrow. Get it up in the air more, give it a better look over than what I can do just crawling around on my back.

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No luck in using Harve's lift today. He has a dead FORD sitting on it.

Figures, I have a dead FORD hogging up my garage also.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Got it up on Harve's lift tonight to look at the brake lines. Found wetness on the rear PS where steel line meets rubber hose at caliper. Got about 3 flats of the fitting turn on it tighter.

Did not see any wetness there when I had that sides trailing arm out to do the bearings, and I had taken the line apart at the front hose/line connection then, not this one.

 

So,, it seems that it has been a "slow leaker" all along since I ran all new lines. Plus,,, I did not have the brakes properly bled before doing the bearing swap.

It had been leaking air out, not fluid,, causing the earlier "low brake fluid light". Then after bleeding brakes at the end of the bearing swap, it started to leak fluid, causing this last "lbfl".

 

Also looked underneath the engine while it was on the lift. I need a new waterpump.......... Be leaking at the drip hole.

 

So, just got done ordering in a bunch of parts from various suppliers.

Rear struts/shocks and mounts, ball-joints outer tie-rod ends, waterpump and gasket, camshaft seals, oil pump seals just cause.

Got another list here to order in from a Subaru Dealer and that should pretty much kill off any money I have or had I should say.

That list includes, intake and exhaust gaskets (just to have around) t-stats, camcase o-rings ( afew of them), PCV valves, and anything else I should happen to think of at the time.

 

Once I have all of the confirmed shipping/arrivail dates, I'm putting in for some vacation off work.

 

'Tain't telling nary a soul round these parts 'bout it niether.

Going to spend the time on my car,

not doing what they want me to do for them..........

Unlike the last time I had vacation to do wrenching and did everything but...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still waiting on some parts to get here. But decided to do a bit of wrenching yesterday.

 

Swapped out the rear shocks, thinking I may need some new springs though. Time will tell on that.

 

Decided to do the waterpump and such, really shouldn't have.

Managed to snap 2 bolts off for the oilpump. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaa.

Hasn't been that long since I had oilpump off, so why did the bolts break??? I know not.

I'll be back out there after breakfast to attempt remedy of situation.

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Thinking I cracked the bolts when I installed the oilpump, and they snapped off when I went to remove them. Couldn't get a grip on them with anything I have here.

Decided to pull the engine. I can take it to a friend what may be able to assist me in getting them out.

 

Spent time working at getting the broke oilpump out of the EA81 engine I had in the Wagon originally. Pulled another oilpump off an engine sitting here and installed it after doing a reseal on it.

 

I then pulled the EA82 out and got it off to the side. Man, is the underside of the Wagon covered in oil. Lot's of oil... 

EA81 is ready to go back in at this time.

 

Debating on whether to do the D/R swap now, or do it a bit later when I have the EA82 ready to go back in. Got everything to do it minus the wheel bearings I was wanting to change out during the axle swap. Mileage on bearings is an unknown, and I have the notion to change them just because I'm there doing axle/seal, so why not do bearings too.

 

I had orginally put in for today and Tuesday as vacation time, but decided to cancel it last Friday as parts order from Dealership hadn't shipped yet. Kinda thinking I shot myself in the foot there.....I could definetly use those 2 days right now. Oh well............

Getting to/from work is no issue, I can ride with Christopher.

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Your wagon thread is making me go crazy wishing I still had a wagon. LOVE the BRAT but there is just something special about having a wagon too. Something to look forward to maybe when the BRAT is finally all tuned up mechanically and running good (as much as I can get at least).

 

Also in reading through the thread I saw something about a meet up that once happened or never did happen? I would love to get all the midwest vintage subaru owners in one spot sometime this summer. Either over here by lake Michigan or somewhere at Tom's house. I do have a tent after all.

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