ericjames86 Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 my car runs fine untill it warms up then it has no power i have to put my foot to the floor before it takes off and it leaks oil or transmission fluid on the y pipe but only when the car is in gear and warm can ne 1 help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Grammer please. How many miles and what year is it. Any Check Engine Light on. How much tranny fluid do you loose. Are you sure it is tranny fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericjames86 Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 it has 197000 it dont loose much because every time it starts to get bad i park it i think it might be oil from the separater plate but it dont explain the loss of power after it warms up and yes the check engine light is on because of the knock sensor but i just lost my job and have no way to pay 90.00 bucks for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 the knock sensor is certainly part of the problem, how much i don't know. and until you correct that you won't know. plus i'm pretty sure the car goes into some sort of fail safe mode when the knock sensor fails. the knock sensor does not have to be a subaru part, you might be able to find one online for less, $60 - $70 maybe. but if you don't have the money it doesn't much matter. using one off of a ''wrecked'' car might be a solution, but a risk as well. i say a wrecked car because the assumption is that it was running pretty well when it wrecked. are there any u-pull-it yards near you? if you can get one cheap enough it might be worth a try even if the car isn't wrecked. DO NOT over torque the bolt when you install it. you can crack the sensor and then it will be bad as well. sorry to hear about your job, good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 What he said. The only worrying thing I see here is not knowing what is leaking. the fastest way to kill and engine is run low on oil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Welcome aboard, ericjames. Check out Amazon--I got a knock sensor on there within the last year for about $45. If you find one in a Pull n Pay inspect it carefully to make sure it's not cracked. Best of luck to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Grammer please. Spelling, please. Sorry, I had to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 You want the car fixed, you're gonna have to start with the knock sensor. Pay attention to the angle of the wire and don't over torque it as has been pointed out. If you have access to shop air blow around it before removing the old one. It's a little hard to get to and you don't want crap getting between the sensor and the block. They are simple to install but can get a little frustrating. Make sure you have the tools before you start. Including a long extension(or several short ones) and I use a wobbly extension. I always "loose" the bolt a few times so a magnetic pickup is more handy than the "pickle picker" type for me in this case. Disconnect the old one before removing the bolt. You can then try and use the wire of the new one to try and line up the new sensor. I've tried lowering with the bolt in place, putting the sensor in place then inserting the bolt. WIsh I could tell you that I knew the trick. Figure about 10-15 minutes of unpleasantness until it just seems to work. I remove the airbox to be able to see better, even though I know exactly where it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 I've tried lowering with the bolt in place, putting the sensor in place then inserting the bolt. WIsh I could tell you that I knew the trick. Figure about 10-15 minutes of unpleasantness until it just seems to work. i used duck tape to make sure my socket stayed on my longest extension. then i put the bolt in the socket and used a litte more tape to keep it from falling out. the bolt has a flange, i think, and just a little bit of tape folded over the under side will keep it in place. then after you start to tighten the bolt you can pull the extension and socket away from the bolt. as long as there is more tape on the socket than the bolt you should be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericjames86 Posted December 2, 2010 Author Share Posted December 2, 2010 is there another name for the oil seperater plate or is a dealer ship part only Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 John - I was mostly trying magnets on the shaft of the extension and the socket. I'll try the tape next time. OP - it's also called the "oil seperator plate". Any Subaru parts guy will know what you want. If not don't buy there. These are a very common problem. Folks here get the new metal plate AND SCREWS to go with the new plate. I've never bought a new plate myself though. Are you ordering a knock sensor too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 Spelling, please. Sorry, I had to do it. What is this speel-ing U speek of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstone Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 it's also called the PCV Plate. it's on the rear of the engine, near the rear main seal. it's a dealer only item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 it's also called the PCV Plate. it's on the rear of the engine, near the rear main seal. it's a dealer only item. Thats a first. It is listed everywhere, from FSM to parts catalogs as a seperator plate. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-seperator-plate-explained/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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