bratclay Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 We got the motor in new timin belts oil pump gasket new tensioners. But started it up and the ****in front main seal is leakin. Can u change those without splitin the case???? Thanks for ur help subi gang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Yes. Bring it back to TDC and zip tie the t-belts to the cam pulleys. Mark the position of the belts on the crank pulley with white paint or similar. Take the tension off the belts and pull the lower drive gear. Remove the seal with a small pick tool and reinstall carefully with a 12/4" drive extension and hammer. Seat it flush to the case. Install the crank sprocket lining up the marks you made earlier. Good to go..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted November 29, 2010 Author Share Posted November 29, 2010 Thanks subi gang. Got new seal puttin it in now. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 Well bad news. So we got the new seal in put t belts bak on and startd it. Oil was pourin out frm behind the tbelt gear on crank. Took them bak off again wiped it clean and inspected it. Couldn't see anythin wrong. Then we turnd oil pump wit drill and just a lil oil cam out betwen seal and crank shaft. So I grab the crank and wouldn't u believe the sob ****in then moves. The crank main bearins I guess r shot. We bought the motor off CL and now we r stil outta motor. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Maybe when you installed the new seal, you managed to dislodge that spring on the backside of the seal. The new seal should have stopped the leak. Either the original seal was bad or the crank snout was worn but if worn, that should have been obvious. At one time you could buy repair kits for a worn crankshaft. Just a thin wall tube that slid over the damaged snout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indrid cold Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 (edited) ...... So I grab the crank and wouldn't u believe the sob ****in then moves. The crank main bearins I guess r shot...... I'm no engine expert by any means... wobble can't be a good thing? Edited November 30, 2010 by Indrid cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Back and forth (in and out) movement is normal It's called endplay. If you have access to a dial indicator, it should be .0004-.0037 in. If it's more than that, the #2 thrust bearing is worn. End play won't cause a leak though unless it's terribly horrific. There should be no up and down play (lateral). If there is, the #1 (and most of the other) bearing(s) is toast. Pull the seal back out and inspect the crank snout like John said. Look for a groove in the snout. If it has one, go to NAPA and tell them you need a sleeve and seal kit for your car. That will take care of your problem. If there's no groove, check the case halves and make sure there are no nicks or gouges where the seal seats. If there are, you can apply a little Permatex Ultra Grey to that area and the same section on the seal and install. Let it cure 24 hours and you should be good. Remember, when you install the seal, you need to use only enough force to get it to move inward slowly. Try using a 3/8" drive extension to install it. If you're not experienced installing this way, it's possible the 1/4" drive cupped the seal and popped the spring off the back side (+1 again John) Keep it as level as possible when installing. Don't let it get cocked off to one side or the other. Once you get it started, tap it in in a circular motion around the perimeter of the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 wow, never seen that one before myself, that sucks. redi-sleeves or something like that are the devices john is talking about for warn cranks. you could also try installing the seal not very deep or deeper such that it is riding on an area of the crank that isn't as warn. this of course only if it's not hosed beyond repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 Well my father n law installed the new seal. The old one just pulled rite off. The new one I watch him install it. It slid most of the way on then took a round pipe the same size as seal and tap it slowly on. But there is alot of movement in the up and down. I grabed it and it moves I would guess almost a 1/16" thats lik .125. Thats ALOT of movement. I grab the old motors crank and there is no movement what so ever up and down. Basicly I think we got screwed. But I have never seen the crank move that much. I know the oil pump was bad thats what broke the timin belt but we dont know what he did to the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Well my father n law installed the new seal. The old one just pulled rite off. The new one I watch him install it. It slid most of the way on then took a round pipe the same size as seal and tap it slowly on. But there is alot of movement in the up and down. I grabed it and it moves I would guess almost a 1/16" thats lik .125. Thats ALOT of movement. I grab the old motors crank and there is no movement what so ever up and down. Basicly I think we got screwed. But I have never seen the crank move that much. I know the oil pump was bad thats what broke the timin belt but we dont know what he did to the motor. not to sound negative, but what's wrong with your old engne? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 The people we bought it from overheated it badly and more then once. Then my grl overheated it after we temp fixed it. It is so bad with bak pres that the radiator blow a hole not just a lil hole either a hole lik the length of the rad by 2" and its been cooked so much we figuar its toast. So we got a new motor frm a guy that just had one head redone milled and gasket but then blow timin belt we that we could just buy new belts tensionrs and stuff but then found that crap out. Not very happy. I didnt want to completely rebuild it. The damn thing only has 132k on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 If you've got lateral play, the bearings are shot. Sorry to say, it's a boat anchor. I'd give you a spare motor, but all I've got is an EA82T and without the rest of the wiring, ECM and such, it'd be a gutless turd. Plus it needs HGs. I wouldn't waste anymore time with what you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Well my father n law installed the new seal. The old one just pulled rite off. The new one I watch him install it. It slid most of the way on then took a round pipe the same size as seal and tap it slowly on. But there is alot of movement in the up and down. I grabed it and it moves I would guess almost a 1/16" thats lik .125. Thats ALOT of movement. I grab the old motors crank and there is no movement what so ever up and down. Basicly I think we got screwed. But I have never seen the crank move that much. I know the oil pump was bad thats what broke the timin belt but we dont know what he did to the motor. Sadly, when you buy something off CL, its buyer beware. Always do a thorough inspection of the item and if you arent sure what to look for, have a friend who does go with you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted November 30, 2010 Author Share Posted November 30, 2010 I would put a ea82t in it if I could find harness and ecm. My grl wants a turbo car. The last car I got her was a talon tsi she loved the kick of the turbo lol. I never even tought to grab the crank and check that my bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) I would put a ea82t in it if I could find harness and ecm. My grl wants a turbo car. The last car I got her was a talon tsi she loved the kick of the turbo lol. I never even tought to grab the crank and check that my bad. the ea82t is not a "turbo car", and that "kick" is non existant. If I were you, I would put a first gen legacy 2.2 in it. the stock ea82 makes ~90hp, the turd-bo ea82t makes ~120hp, and is a nightmare, and the lego EJ22 makes ~135hp, and is MUCH more reliable for the money. If you keep good oil in them, EJ22's will run 300k no problem, mine had 250k with original HG's Edited December 1, 2010 by Ricearu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 I've got the harness and ECM still in the car with the engine. You're welcome to come up to Puyallup and pull it all. Just remember, it needs HGs. The EJ swap is definitely the way to go, but if you don't have the cash, it makes it tough. Let me know what you want to do with this. I need to get rid of the car in the next few weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted December 2, 2010 Author Share Posted December 2, 2010 Pm'd u skishop69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratclay Posted December 3, 2010 Author Share Posted December 3, 2010 Can anyone giv me sum help wit doin a ea82 to a ea82t. I mean wht will I all hav to chang? I know the engin harness and ecm but wher the ehgin harness connects to the harness on the body. Does that need changed too? Any advise will help. Thanks subi gang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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