allanbegg Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 I have the opportunity to purchase an '82 Brat. My wife really wants it, but I have no idea what it's worth. It has 112K miles on it. It's a GL model with a manual transmission. There is no externally visible rust and the body is very straight. Has a topper on it. Looks to be very stock. I need to go back and take a look at the engine compartment, chassis, etc... Anything specific that I should look for? Certain areas of the body/undercarriage that tend to rust first? Mechanical issues that are prevelent? This would be my first Subaru, so I'm nervous due to a lack of knowledge. If someone wants, I can send a couple of pictures. Just not able to post them here. My email is allanbegg at embarqmail dot com Thanks in advance for any advise. If this deal goes through, I'll be asking lots of questions and poking around the site for information. Take care, Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) yes rust on the rocker panels, and bad rust up under the front door frame area directly under where the door meets the fronts fenders on the curved frame rails you need to look under the car, stick your head up under the door area near the front tire and look up. also rust at the rear shock mounts to the wheel wells, if you look into the bed and see bubbled rust, rot over the wheel wells, its a gonner. be prepared to spend a thousand or so just on: carb rbuild or replace ball joints brakes water pump gaskets clutch cooling system stuff, heater, thermostat, hoses belts axles or boots bearings exhaust interior electrical stuff etc etc Edited December 1, 2010 by bheinen74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1982gl4 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Certain areas of the body/undercarriage that tend to rust first? Everywhere haha! Look really closely at the bed and the rockers, those tend to rust out very quickly, also look right behind the front wheels that's also an area of concern. If it's in good shape ( not rusty and mechanically strong) I would say it's probably worth that. If it need stuff (as all old car do) you could easily be racking up repair bills right after you get so be careful. If it's not a good enough car, spend some time looking for the "right" one, trust me I impulsed bought a Brat and spent way to long and way to much $ on fixing it up when I could have had a perfect one shipped to my house for way less then what I have into mine now! (I'm not saying it wasn't worth it just a lot of work) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brumby420 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Mechanically about the only things that are somewhat prone to failure are head gaskets and the old subys carb arent great either but if you just get a weber or switch to fuel injection youll be set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Mechanically about the only things that are somewhat prone to failure are head gaskets and the old subys carb arent great either but if you just get a weber or switch to fuel injection youll be set. Headgaskets are more of a EA82 thing. EA81s weaknesses are really only intake gaskets sometimes and the normal things that wear on any engine. Otherwise they are pretty bulletproof. Check the oil pressure on hot idle. If its anything less than 25 than its probably time for a new pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) Rust: As mentioned before: rocker panels, rear portion of the front fender wells, front and rear shock mounts, underside near the muffler exhaust, driveshaft tunnel near the carrier bearing mounts and under the front spare tire (not structurally important, but an indicator of how rust prone the car might be). I have a pretty rust free '84 with 117K on it and everything is working properly. If the previous owner did his oil changes at a reasonable interval (every 3K miles) and normal maintenance you should be okay. Weakest parts would be the carb (easily replaced with a weber) and distributer (check the shaft for any noticeable play). Also, a car with that many years on the original radiator is likely looking for a new one. Run the car down the interstate and watch the temp gauge as you speed up. The temp shouldn't change from mid-scale as you speed up (try to get it up to 70MPH if you can legally do so) or go up long hills. If the Brat starts to run hotter under load or high speed, the radiator is the most likely culprit. Not an expensive fix; about $100 for the radiator and you can install it yourself; a little messy but easily done. Significant overheating could be head gaskets but that's not normally an issue with the EA81 engine. If the Brat is truly rust free and runs fine, that price is pretty decent for your area. If it were a California or NW Brat that was truly rust-free it would be on the market for well over your asking price. I got my insurance company to agree to a $6000 valuation on mine based on the condition and low mileage a few years ago. Try to get a copy of the book How to Keep your Subaru Alive. A fun read and good pointers for what you might look for. Amazon usually has used copies for under $20 with shipping. Edited December 1, 2010 by edrach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 used to be, I'd say, nope it isn't worth it. but after fixing/breaking/rebuilding my 84GL...I now think yeah it's worth that much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 Allen, Recently I found myself in the position that you are in. Hopefully my input will help you out.... I found a similar deal myself. A '84 GL Wagon, with 130k mile on it. VERY clean. Besides one tear in the drivers seat, the interior looks as it did as it rolled off the assembly line. Besides one crease in the drivers lower door, the exterior is as good as it gets for a 26 year old car. Rubber seals are 100%, glass is great, paint and clear-coat are in fabulous shape. Obvious that the car spent most of its time in a garage. Zero rust, and 100% stock. Even the digital dash works. I paid $2500. And I feel that both parties made out well. The gentleman I purchased it from had picked it up from a family friend, and (Im assuming) probably got it for free or next to nothing. He threw a bit of money at it, in the way of new head-gaskets and refreshed heads, as well as new belts, many new hoses, and a few ignition items. The car runs out 100% and looks great. Though in the past few weeks I have still found reason enough to replace/repair a few items. On the list so far... I started with a fresh set of winter tires and used steel wheels. Then... *OEM thermostat *New rear lift gate struts *Repaired a leaky fuel return line from the carb *Replaced the battery/starter leads *Just this evening I replaced the aging factory distributor, as the upper bushing was showing some play. *tomorrow I will be re-sealing the oil pan and oil pump. All in all this looks like the best $2500 Ive spent in a long time. I have a neat car that you dont see everyday in such condition, is is damn reliable, comfy enough for long trips, gets great fuel mileage, and being 4wd, it will go anywhere I damn well please in the winter months. Prior to finding this gem, I was looking at $20k+ used subarus. This one saved me a bundle. The Brat you have found might be something similar. But in my opinion, if it IS very stock, and has little to no rust, you would probably kick yourself for not buying it. In the grand scheme of things, $2500 is nothing. Even if you buy it and it turns out to be a pile (doubtful), you are not out very much $$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanbegg Posted December 2, 2010 Author Share Posted December 2, 2010 We bought it. My wife is the proud new owner of a Brat. There were only two minor issues with it, on the test drive and drive home. It idles at about 1600 rpm and bogs down miserably if given too much throttle. Not sure if the choke was stuck on or some similar carb issue, but will find it. Secondly, the brake pedal was pretty mushy on the first push but felt fine on the second. May be low on fluid or the master cylinder may need a rebuild. No real rust. Rocker panels and area behind front wheels were fine. Strut towers were solid. Only one small patch of surface rust right above the exhaust pipe exit point. Allan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 sweet, nice hit! easy 100,000 miles here you come! you idle is probably carb issues, but i will try to subdue my distaste of them and let those familiar with them help you nurse that thorn in the side of the EA81 along. i wouldn't assume master cylinder too quick, those almost never fail on subaru's. i'd track it down quick in case it's a leak or poor piston sealing, those are probably more likely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 Only one small patch of surface rust right above the exhaust pipe exit point. Allan Congrats, I think you'll love it. A word of warning, get the muffler extension fixed so the exhaust vents past the rear bumper. Often the extension breaks and the exhaust gases get trapped under the body in that rear corner. The gases mix with the moisture in the air and form acid which just eats away at that corner rapidly. It's an easy fix: a new muffler if it's warranted or just having a new extension welded on the old muffler if it's still good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 It idles at about 1600 rpm and bogs down miserably if given too much throttle. Allan High idle can be a choke issue; or simply that the throttle cable is too tight and carb can't shut down entirely. There should be just a little slack in the cable. Bogging can be a timing issue, but I would change the fuel filter (the one on the fuel pump platform under the car) first. Since it's relatively hidden it never gets changed and can severely restrict gas flow. There's also a vapor separator (in the engine compartment) that looks like a fuel filter and that should be changed also. As to the timing issue, the vacuum advance on the distributor is probably shot. Easy fix IF you can find an advance mechanism. If not, Philbin Industries in Portland will rebuild it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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