mcbrat Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 anyone done it? I'm fixing some stuff on the rear of Grizzly. brake pads, trailing arms, bearing... the axles are rusted onto the diff stubs (and the outsides as well) and are not budging yet... I've got them soaking with yeild right now though... it currently has an open diff... I'm thinking of just ripping the whole mess out since I'm putting in new trailing arms... and I've got more axles, and I've got 2 spare rear diffs at home. a welded one I ran for years in my Red Brat, and I got it used from WA... and the second one is a VLSD that's in pieces.... I've got newish MWE rear axles with Legacy cups (maybe). not sure exactly what combo they were, but they are longer travel, and maybe even a tad longer. I ran them on my Brat before without issue... I also have about 8-10 spare stub shafts for the welded one... My daily commute is about 30 miles each way... Am I gonna eat my tires up super fast if I use the welded diff? I'm not sure if I even have all the parts needed to get the VLSD back in service.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 I've driven my Hatch over 1000mi on the hiway without a problem. Of course the short wheelbase has helped, but I try and drive it so my turns arent too sharp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 (edited) do it, whatcha got to lose? i mean besides some tread?cheers, b Edited December 4, 2010 by monstaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Subi4x4 Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 Yeah it's fine I daily drove my old 4 inch wagon with a welded diff for prob 3,000 miles. Just no fun in parking lots :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 I personally feel all that extra stress on the stubs and axles driving around town makes them more likely to break on the trail. At WCSS 11, there was a sweet, highly customized, beefed up hatch. He drove up from California with a welded diff......broke BOTH stubs on the rear diff when he hit the trail (EA81 car, EA81 engine). Coincidence? maybe........but I feel there is a connection. He was the only one to break stubs that day........one other hatch lost an axle to hyper extension(different problem). I have personally had an axle grenade pulling into a driveway when I used to run the welded all the time. I had only been running that welded diff about 3-4 weeks when that happened. It isn't a matter of "will work" or "won't work", but rather of "is it a good idea and does it have some effect" No it isn't, and yes in the long term it does. I think it's pretty easy to see how the extra strain could shorten the life of the stubs and axles. Run open or LSD, or pull an axle for the street. That's my $.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 Pull axle and it's fine. That's what I do. Though I have driven quite a few miles on my welded diff (welded by me) with the axles in place and haven't broken the diff yet - sometimes after taking it off-road I'm too tired to care about pulling the axle . I've also snapped rear axle cups doing it too. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted December 4, 2010 Author Share Posted December 4, 2010 my drive to work will vary between interstate and county roads, and dry pavement to snow covered depending on whats happening... 24 deg and snowing a little today... winter temps here will vary from -30 F to 35 F. sometimes a month without seeing any temps above freezing... Iowa is kind of fickle that way... you just never know... last year we got our first snow on October 9th, and it stayed until March/April... Today is really our first dusting of snow. and most of it has blown away. and it'll be above freezing next thursday it looks like.... and no snow in the forecast... My current "work" vehicle is my '72 K20 so Grizz will double my mileage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted December 4, 2010 Share Posted December 4, 2010 My DD has a welded rear diff,but it also has a solid rear axle...I know the stubs are weak on the subaru diffs.For street I would install that LSD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael appel Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 :banana:You can drive around or pull it takes me 10 min to put in or take out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 LSD install cause when you pull in to put gas in it, those tight turns will not be easy. LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD LSD or VLSD VLSD VLSD VLSD VLSD or LSD LSD LSD LSD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 i never heard so many pansies in all of my life:rolleyes:.lock it and run it.if you do not like it, take it out.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael appel Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 limited slip is good for rally not wheeling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 limited slip is good for rally not wheeling how about DD (daily driving) as he says? we are not talking wheeling or rally, DD is about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael appel Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 I have it on my daily driver I do 45 miles a day going just to scool commuting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 I duno, i would thing griz would be more of a a wheeler with the lift and heavy agressive tires. I would weld it and pull an axle out. Or are you wanting maximum snow traction. Just to many variables to go wrong with driveing it all the time around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted December 5, 2010 Author Share Posted December 5, 2010 my main question was on the long commute driving part of it. I've ran welded before around town, pulled and not pulled, so that doesn't matter to me. I just wasn't sure about extended high speed (almost) running with the welded should it be dry out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted December 5, 2010 Author Share Posted December 5, 2010 I could always trade it for a proper commuter, but where would the fun be ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 NOt related and probally deleted, but i think your nuts. I did the daily commute in a car that wasnt the best. It stunk, give me a decent legacy or outback any day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcbrat Posted December 5, 2010 Author Share Posted December 5, 2010 NOt related and probally deleted, but i think your nuts. I did the daily commute in a car that wasnt the best. It stunk, give me a decent legacy or outback any day. right, but my commute options right now are either mtn grizz or my 72k20... grizz gets at least double the mileage... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 i wasna talkin about you bein a pansy mick..........i kinda know your history...... the speed thing is a valid question.but the welded diff i had in my brat did fine between here and idaho the last year i ran that brat.i was driving there about (approx 25 miles one way)three times a week for a while there.....at least that whole summer. when i removed that chunk i found a little bit of adverse wear on the ring gear, but not much.it could have been from the setup that i did not do:grin: properly........ cheers, b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UraBUS09 Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 put it in and drive it. mines been in since it snowed (both axles), when the roads are bare i pop one axle out, other then that i always have the welded diff in, such a difference. i drive 38 miles one way to work, county roads, and 12 miles of hwy, havent had any problems yet driving the speed limit of 55, and even over that if i want. breaking cups due to over extending... even with hybrid axle (es82) is a different problem, nothing with the welded diff. wouldnt be a problem if it was done correctly.... just take your turns easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted December 5, 2010 Share Posted December 5, 2010 put it in and drive it. mines been in since it snowed (both axles), when the roads are bare i pop one axle out, other then that i always have the welded diff in, such a difference. i drive 38 miles one way to work, county roads, and 12 miles of hwy, havent had any problems yet driving the speed limit of 55, and even over that if i want. breaking cups due to over extending... even with hybrid axle (es82) is a different problem, nothing with the welded diff. wouldnt be a problem if it was done correctly.... just take your turns easy! as a matter of fact the chunk in your car is the one i am talkin about...... you still have not put limiting straps on that car?!wtf over.......that s what i told you i was gonna do for it.you know cause i said that those shocks were what i had laying around.hrrmm, pretty sure thats what i said:rolleyes:...anyways cheers, b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ionlyhave3suubs Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Has anyone explored the idea of adapting a front hub from a 4x4 small pickup with manual locking hubs to use with the rear of a subaru with a welded diff? I was thinking if you changed out one side to a manual locking hub, it would have pretty much the same effect as pulling out one rear axle, but you could get the benefit of the welded diff by just stepping out and locking the hub, instead of having to put an axle back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 (edited) breaking cups due to over extending... even with hybrid axle (es82) is a different problem, nothing with the welded diff. wouldnt be a problem if it was done correctly.... Yes, I know. It was the guy who had the both his stubs break that had the welded. The one who overextended an axle was I think an LSD, definately not welded. His overextension was compression, since you move the arms so far from bumpstops after a lift. Extend your bumpstops:grin: Limiting straps would not help unless they where uptravel limiters. (not sure how you'd do that) Edited December 6, 2010 by Gloyale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Yes, I know. It was the guy who had the both his stubs break that had the welded. The one who overextended an axle was I think an LSD, definately not welded. His overextension is on compression, since you move the arms so far from bumpstops after a lift. Extend your bumpstops:grin: Limiting straps would not help unless they where uptravel limiters. (not sure how you'd do that) every time i broke those axles on that car it was from extension, not compression.we are talking about a specific build.not you.cheers, b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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