1996 Legacy AT Oil Temp Light Flashing 16 Times

[pcd10141]

I have a 1996 Subaru Legacy with the AT Oil Temp Light Flashing 16 Times. In Colorado for emmissions testing they put the car on a dynamometer. I think that's what triggered the problem. I'm not feeling a drag when I make tight cirlces. I was told by my mechanic to install the 15A fuse in the FWD connector and drive it that way for 2 days (which I did). It looks like it might snow tonite so I took it out (as he said I should). But the light still flashed 16 times after all that. So I searched on this forum and found a link to an article on endwrench.com which said in order to clear memory just remove fuse #14 for at least one minute. After doing that the light no longer flashes. I think I'm good now unless it starts flashing again.... (hopefully it won't).....

 

Anybody out there familiar with this???

[davebugs]

Search here for Duty C solenoid.

 

That's what the 16 flashes is trying to tell you.

 

Edit: ALso look at the bottom left of this screen at the "similar threads"

[nipper]

Search here for Duty C solenoid.

 

That's what the 16 flashes is trying to tell you.

 

Edit: ALso look at the bottom left of this screen at the "similar threads"

Slight correction. This is telling you there was an electrical fault in the transmission in the last operation of the car. 98% of the time it is the Duty C solenoid. Alos look up Torque bind and enjoy lots of reading

[Legacy777]

Welcome to the USMB.

 

When it was put on the dyno, was the dyno a FWD or AWD dyno? If it was a FWD dyno only, was the FWD fuse installed? If not, that's what caused the light to go on. Hopefully the TCU figured out what was happening and protected the duty c & rear clutch packs from getting messed up.

 

When it snows, try going to a parking lot and doing donuts to make sure the AWD is still working properly.

 

For the future, if you have to have the car put on the dyno, you need to install a fuse in the FWD fuse holder, OR tell the emissions place the car is AWD and it can not be put on a FWD dyno.

[nipper]

Welcome to the USMB.

 

When it was put on the dyno, was the dyno a FWD or AWD dyno? If it was a FWD dyno only, was the FWD fuse installed? If not, that's what caused the light to go on. Hopefully the TCU figured out what was happening and protected the duty c & rear clutch packs from getting messed up.

 

When it snows, try going to a parking lot and doing donuts to make sure the AWD is still working properly.

 

For the future, if you have to have the car put on the dyno, you need to install a fuse in the FWD fuse holder, OR tell the emissions place the car is AWD and it can not be put on a FWD dyno.

 

 

http://www.aircarecolorado.com/im240tst.htm

 

The car must be tested on an adjustable AWD dyno OR put in FWD.

 

All-Wheel Drive/Traction Control Vehicles

 

Vehicles that are full-time four wheel drive, all-wheel drive or traction control are tested using specially-designed dynamometers -- one set for the front wheels and an adjustable set (adjusted based on length of wheel base) under the rear wheels. The far

All-Wheel Drive/Traction Control Vehicles

 

Vehicles that are full-time four wheel drive, all-wheel drive or traction control are tested using specially-designed dynamometers -- one set for the front wheels and an adjustable set (adjusted based on length of wheel base) under the rear wheels. The far right lane of every test station contains two sets of dynamometers and four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in this lane. Vehicles that can be shifted from four-wheel drive to two-wheel drive must be tested in two-wheel drive rather than using the four-wheel dynamometers.

All-Wheel Drive/Traction Control Vehicles

 

Vehicles that are full-time four wheel drive, all-wheel drive or traction control are tested using specially-designed dynamometers -- one set for the front wheels and an adjustable set (adjusted based on length of wheel base) under the rear wheels. The far right lane of every test station contains two sets of dynamometers and four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in this lane. Vehicles that can be shifted from four-wheel drive to two-wheel drive must be tested in two-wheel drive rather than using the four-wheel dynamometers.

right lane of every test station contains two sets of dynamometers and four-wheel drive vehicles are tested in this lane. Vehicles that can be shifted from four-wheel drive to two-wheel drive must be tested in two-wheel drive rather than using the four-wheel dynamometers.

 

Tirerack lists the tire size as either a 14 or 15 inch tire. Anything below 17 is NOT supposed to be on the dyno.

 

Tires that are smaller than 17 inches or larger than 34 inches cannot be safely tested on the dynamometer.

Only vehicles with manufacturer-equipped undersized or oversized tires that do not fit safely on the dynamometer will be authorized by the state to undergo an idle test instead of a dynamometer test. Vehicles with tires larger or smaller than original equipment that do not fit safely on the dynamometer must be returned to stock condition for testing. Vehicles with non-original undersized or oversized tires will not receive authorization from the state for an idle test.

 

If this applies to you it should not have been on the Dyno.

 

The light should reset after the next drive if the issue went away. The TCU will stop the AWD at about 50 mph if it senses a problem, What they did was DANGEROUS and should be reported to whatever agency controls the inspection station. Write doiwn what they did, print out a copy of the link, and hold onto it if the problem does not clear up. Without seeing the car I think they damaged it.

PS, in New york any AWD vehical are exempt from the dyno tests.

Edited December 6, 2010 by nipper