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Horrid squealing related to steering rack...


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Hi Subarites,

It's gotten colder up North here now and when I start my Sube I get the squealing that I know has something to do with the power steering assy.

 

What could be the cause...do I need to flush the fluid? Low fluid? Bearings on the wheel that drives it getting worn?

 

It's especially pronounced when I have the steering wheel cranked all the way to the right or left so I'm thinking it may have something to do with the fluid.

 

My mechanic mentioned something about how I might be needing a whole new rack sometime relatively soon...

 

 

Keep smoking 'Tbackers,

Damien

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Whoo another VT member welcome aboard!!!!!!!!! As suggested I would check the belt tension, also just check it over make sure it doesn't need replacing. be careful when tightening it, up here the corrosion tends to freeze up the tensioners pretty well, and usually the break or you end up rounding the bolt off. I usually spray something on the threads to make life a little easier.

-SB

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is there some magic to belts. my first 3 subarus i drove over 225k miles and never touched a acc belt or had a problem. (wercked one, gave one to my son and sold the last.) my last 2 have been ej22 swaps which i put on new acc belts and i have had trouble with both.

 

the first started making noise and i adjusted it. when it started doing it again i went and got a gator back? belt to replace the one o got with my timing kit. it started making noise after a while and i adjusted it too. still chirps a little at start up.

 

my latest, i started out with a quality belt and it too makes noise at start up. (i'm learning.)

 

so what is the secret?

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you know you may be right...the belt does look a little glossy.

 

How about fluid change....is it as essential to promoting longevity in the power steering system as it is in the transmission?

 

 

--Damien

 

 

It can't hurt, but do it the easy way. With a turkey baster empty the pump. refill with fresh fluid. and your done. If you really want to be complete, do this like a tranny flush. Drain-fill-start then turn lock to lock then repeat four times (I think, usually the same amount as the capacity as it does not have to be 100%). PS fluid has a very easy life so no need to get 100%

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the first started making noise and i adjusted it. when it started doing it again i went and got a gator back? belt to replace the one o got with my timing kit. it started making noise after a while and i adjusted it too. still chirps a little at start up.

 

my latest, i started out with a quality belt and it too makes noise at start up. (i'm learning.)

 

so what is the secret?

 

Dunno. I've always had good luck with Gatorback belts. I prefer Gates since they aren't quite as expensive as the GBs and work better than the Daycos I've used.

One thing that can cause belts to get "slippy" is the pulleys themselves. Especially in the case of modern serpentine style multi-rib pulleys. With time the ribs on the pulleys will wear down and eventually they get so small that they don't grip the ribs of the belt correctly. (granted the difference is probably un-noticable to the naked eye without a new pulley to compare to) The contact area between the belt and the pulley gets so small that the drag on the belt quickly overcomes the friction against the pulley and burns or glazes the surface of the belt.

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I might add I had cheap oil put in with a lousy filter...after only 2000 miles it's foul and dirty.

 

I'm thinking poor quality motor oil also plays a key role in degrading performance in that whole crank/belt system on the front of the EJ22.

 

 

 

--Damien

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If you get oil ON the belt yes, it could be detrimental, but other than that, motor oil has nothing to do with accessory belt life. :confused:

 

Oil is inside the engine, belts are outside, no interaction or relation between the two.

 

Poor quality motor oil plays a major part in sludge and varnish buildup inside the engine though. Can lead to clogged oil passages, low oil pressure, stuck rings, lots of highly destructive conditions.

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well...I got an oil change cuz what was in the pan was almost like molasses...I blame using too much SeaFoam (I got in the habit of putting a few ounces in the gas tank on every fill up...that plus using Lucas stuff probably caused some kind of chemical reaction).

 

Anyway...the squealing has died down considerably...so I think another chemistry lesson may be in order for those wishing to maximize life out of current vehicles.

 

Cheers!

 

Damien

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yesterday I basically flushed the fluid that was in the power steering reservoir. It was pretty dirty. It was a simple procedure... a $1.80 hand pump and a quart of Dexron.

 

Now the steering is noticeably more responsive and the 'chirping' problem I mentioned originally is basically gone. Sometimes it chirps a little when the steering wheel is cocked max to the left or right but not after the car has warmed up.

 

I recommend frequent fluid changes for the automatic transmissions as well (in spite of what the 'experts' say).

 

Once again it may pay to consider a simple, inexpensive solution before giving up and opting for the costly repair.

 

Cheers!

 

--Damien

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is there some magic to belts. my first 3 subarus i drove over 225k miles and never touched a acc belt or had a problem. (wercked one, gave one to my son and sold the last.) my last 2 have been ej22 swaps which i put on new acc belts and i have had trouble with both.

 

the first started making noise and i adjusted it. when it started doing it again i went and got a gator back? belt to replace the one o got with my timing kit. it started making noise after a while and i adjusted it too. still chirps a little at start up.

 

my latest, i started out with a quality belt and it too makes noise at start up. (i'm learning.)

 

so what is the secret?

 

I use only a dealer belt, it should be a little loose new, 10MM deflection pretty typical, then when it breaks in a little tighten to about 6MM.

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  • 1 month later...

Well now the chirping from the steering rack is completely eliminated.

 

Additionally the 'torque bind' has also abated completely (but maybe that's cuz of the fuse I stuck in the FWD plug recently...I haven't confirmed that the mechanism had engaged)

 

 

I have to stress that electronics play a very key role in the car's overall health and functioning. One bad transistor or over-biased relay or whatever can spell an early doom for a mechanical component.

 

From what I can gather something as simple as a fluid change can really have a very noticable impact in the proper and efficient functioning of other connected components in the car's drivetrain/aspiration etc.

 

Gasoline quality also plays an important role.

 

Any thoughts on enzyme fuel additive I see they are now selling in parts stores?

 

 

Something to think about... :-)

 

--Damien

 

p.s. Tires can also make a h___ of a difference.

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