NV Zeno Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 (edited) OK. My muffler is about ready to fall off, and I've found a direct replacement to the one that's currently on the car. Hangers are in the same locations, etc. It's separated where the inlet pipe meets the muffler..looks to be a pretty clean break. Nothing much holding it up besides the hangers, and it's sagging a bit. All the pipes before the muffler are in real good shape. Without any welding being involved, is this something I can do myself, under the car (on the garage floor)? What other parts do I need? TIA Edited December 7, 2010 by NV Zeno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 OK. My muffler is about ready to fall off, and I've found a direct replacement to the one that's currently on the car. Hangers are in the same locations, etc. It's separated where the inlet pipe meets the muffler..looks to be a pretty clean break. Nothing much holding it up besides the hangers, and it's sagging a bit. All the pipes before the muffler are in real good shape. Without any welding being involved, is this something I can do myself, under the car (on the garage floor)? What other parts do I need? TIA Dave, As always, which car are we talking about? Anyway, the front portion of most stock Subaru mufflers are terminated in a flange with two bolt holes and sealed with a gasket. Only problem might be the bolts are usually rusted together so be sure to have replacement hardware as well as the gasket. If you have a really good rust penetrant (Yield is the best, Kroil is okay), soak the bolts the night before you plan on working on it. If you have an impact tool, it might make removing the old hardware easier. When you re-assemble it, put some "never-seeze" grease on the new hardware. This will make it easier to do the job next time. You should be able to do this yourself. Drive the rear of the car up on ramps and firmly chock the front wheels so the car can't roll off the ramps. You should be able to do that (if I can---and I have, many times---so can you). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruparts Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 OK. My muffler is about ready to fall off, and I've found a direct replacement to the one that's currently on the car. Hangers are in the same locations, etc. It's separated where the inlet pipe meets the muffler..looks to be a pretty clean break. Nothing much holding it up besides the hangers, and it's sagging a bit. All the pipes before the muffler are in real good shape. Without any welding being involved, is this something I can do myself, under the car (on the garage floor)? What other parts do I need? TIA hi, i have found that "some" so called direct fit mufflers , do not have the front section of pipe with the flange, that bolts to the mid section of pipe, they are not truely a direct fit replacement ! if you happen to have bought one like this it still needs welded to replace it. if you happen to have bought one that does have the front pipe with flange, then its just like edrach said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 hi, i have found that "some" so called direct fit mufflers , do not have the front section of pipe with the flange, that bolts to the mid section of pipe, they are not truely a direct fit replacement ! if you happen to have bought one like this it still needs welded to replace it. if you happen to have bought one that does have the front pipe with flange, then its just like edrach said. Ed, I totally brain froze on identifying my vehicle type, certainly a vital mistake on my part. Car in question is a 1983 wagon, non-turbo. It looks as if I have an aftermarket "direct fit" unit on the car now, and the replacements I've seen are the same, meaning there's no flange that bolts to the midpipe (as described above)..just a couple or 3 inches of pipe sticking out the front. I haven't bought anything yet, I'm just going by what I've seen out there. So, if I understand Ruparts' post correctly, I still need to have some welding done anyway...right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 not sure if you need welding done or not... but either a friend would have a welder hopefully (I do but I am too far) or a shop would weld it up cheap... like under $50. (I had a glasspack put on one of my old turbowagons years ago for $50 and that included the pipe into and out of it and labor) (but not the glasspack itself) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted December 8, 2010 Author Share Posted December 8, 2010 not sure if you need welding done or not... but either a friend would have a welder hopefully (I do but I am too far) or a shop would weld it up cheap... like under $50. (I had a glasspack put on one of my old turbowagons years ago for $50 and that included the pipe into and out of it and labor) (but not the glasspack itself) Mike, from my experience shops don't like installing parts that someone brings them. They usually charge an abnormal rate for the work, and that usually works out to just having the whole job done by that shop anyway. I get what you mean though. :-\ Come to think of it, Rick at Harrah's Casino might be able to help me again (he likes BEER). I'm going over there today, I'll stop by and see if he's up for it. Thanks for the "knock on the head". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 Who made this so called direct fit part. I purchased "direct fit" exhaust system for my Justy, and the only thing that was right was the muffler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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