How do I clean the caliper pins(?) ?

[razz]

My car: 2005 Forester X with 43,000 miles

 

I had a state safety inspection done at a gas service station about a month ago and I was told that I would probably need to change the front brakes before next year's safety inspection in November, 2011.

 

I checked the front brakes today and the pads had about 6mm left so I will change the pads in spring. To take the caliper off I had to unbolt two 14mm bolts and the lower bolt came out half rusted. The upper pin moves freely but the lower pin does not move as well as the upper pin.

 

How do I clean it so it moves freely? Do I just take the rubber boot off and clean it?

 

 

 

 

[Fuzpile]

I do want mention that your attention to these details is correct. I could go on and on about other cars with seized calipers. You don't need that. Those little boots are very good. There is a :-\special grease which can be used after the pin is clean ( smooth one, I wouldn't mess with)

The deal is once removed or protected away from (who am I kidd'n) a wire wheel is good on ferrous things. AVOID Carborundum around this part. Even silicon. Carb is worse. The fine particles embed ito the metal and any amount of grease is mere lubricant for a reaming.

[nipper]

you can buy the pins if they are scored. A little force is needed cometimes using a c clamp of a prybar of some kind. Use your imagination to get it out.

 

Clean them with very fine sand paper or steel wool. I actuallu use a dremle tool. You need to clean the parts thet the pin slides in and out of too. When you think you have them clean clean them some more. Use brake grease.

[Rooster2]

I did my Outback brakes last summer. I pulled the pins, and did some light sanding with fine grit sand paper on any rusty areas. Upon reassembly, I used antisieze. It is a graphite cream, and works as a good lubricant. I coated the pins, also used it on the slides for the pads, and on the rotor where the back of the road wheel bolts up to it. Also, used on the threads of the studs for the lug nuts. Makes for a lot easier time of doing the brakes next time, or even having to change a tire to put on a spare in case of a flat.

 

Later, I had a tire going down. I went to a tire shop to patch a nail hole. The guy doing the work complimented me on the liberal use of antisieze. Said he wished a lot more people would take the small extra amount of time to do this. He said it makes his work a lot easier.

 

Next to my car, was a Chevy that they had already broken two lug studs in the last five minutes, because the lug nuts were rusted on. Too bad, a little antisieze would have prevented that.

[kenpdx]

2nd!

Anti-seize=good!

[StructEngineer]

If your pins are starting to seize it probably means the boots are no longer sealing correctly because they're old (drying out) OR the last guy to grease them used a petroleum based grease instead of silicone (brake boots swell when petroleum grease is used, which ruins their seal, which then let moisture in and causes the pin to seize in the bore)

 

Just get the subaru caliper seal kit online. Dont mess with anything else or aftermarket greases. It comes with new boots and the proper lube you know is compatible with the rubber. If you can still move the bottom pin a little bit, you have some time but it will probably be seized by spring. Once seized, then its a PITA to get them out. I would try to do it on a "warm" winter day if I were you instead of waiting. It will take 10 minutes max.

 

To clean it you need to take out the pins. They're only held in by the boots which fit into a lip on the bore. Twist to break the boot free, then pull them out. Once you get the pins out, clean out the bore and pin thoroughly with brake cleaner. Install the boots on the pins, apply the correct grease on the pins and boot sealing surface and they should just pop back into the bores. Dont overgrease and dont trap air in the boot.

 

For reference, my 2002 uses this kit http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?subcat=Brakes%2C+Front++Calip+Seal+kit+&model=Forester

 

You can also buy the pins separately if you need to.

 

As for your rusted lower bolt, this is normal.

Edited December 12, 2010 by StructEngineer

[razz]

Thanks for the replies. The lower pin had rubber sheath on it while the upper pin did not. I cleaned them both and the inside housing. After that I greased them with some CRC brake grease and they slide much better now.

[Caboobaroo]

If the slides are starting to stick, you'd see the results in the pads. If the bottom was truely sticking, then the outside pad would be thicker on the bottom then the top, vise versa with the inside pad. What happens is the grease starts becoming more of a solid then a liquid which will start causing it to stick, then you get moisture in there causing rust. If you can get to them before the rust, make sure they have plenty of caliper lubricant (its on the counter of all major auto part stores) which isn't petroleum based, clean, relube and done!