soobie_newbie67 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 freaking sweet, i love it. i just need to do a head gasket. but anyway, now im not going to do the motor swap on my 1987 Subaru GL wagon, just to save myself from a lot of unnecessary labor. long story short, what can i do to make the EA82 turbo motor better, and please people, dont give me a hassle about this motor, i have already heard all cons about this engine, i just want to know how to make it better cause i freaking love these cars. some more info on the car. 1988 Subaru GL-10 wagon EA82 Turbo all wheel drive, 5 speed power everything, including a bad rump roast glass moon roof digital dash (works perfectly, btw) car has 189,000 miles what happened: guy was going down the highway and the car overheated cause the thermostat got stuck. he stopped an immediately shut the car off, then the headgasket blew (out, not in) he had it towed home, started taking it apart, got tired with it, and decided to sell it (got a steal deal on a Volvo he said) damn, think i talked too much. ways to make ea82 better. Please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 EA82 are Reliable... but EA82T are Not, The engine were not Designed to be Turbo, so the Turbo force them to the Extreme, somehow... That's Why they couldn't bring you very much further than the Stock Numbers... You can do a Great Tune up, New Hoses, Sparkplugs, Fuel injectors, even a New intercooler... etc. but They'll Stay Close to the Stock Numbers. I Know that Sooner or Later Someone will Chime here telling you to do the EJ Engine Swap if you want a More Powerful Ride... and They're Right, but maybe some displays on your Digi Dash will become un trust full... That Ride sounds Nice, this Thread will be Nicer with Pics! Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 The BEST thing you can do for that engine, is make sure NO codes are posted in the ECU, replacing necessary sensors and the like, tune it up really well, and then maybe add a top mount intercooler. Don't adjust the boost... it will grenade. Good running and functioning ea82t's are still a hoot. Wagaru's t-wagon in 2wd would chirp the tires when it hit boost (foot off of clutch) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted December 13, 2010 Author Share Posted December 13, 2010 EA82 are Reliable... but EA82T are Not, The engine were not Designed to be Turbo, so the Turbo force them to the Extreme, somehow... That's Why they couldn't bring you very much further than the Stock Numbers... You can do a Great Tune up, New Hoses, Sparkplugs, Fuel injectors, even a New intercooler... etc. but They'll Stay Close to the Stock Numbers. I Know that Sooner or Later Someone will Chime here telling you to do the EJ Engine Swap if you want a More Powerful Ride... and They're Right, but maybe some displays on your Digi Dash will become un trust full... That Ride sounds Nice, this Thread will be Nicer with Pics! Kind Regards. oh dont worry, i'll be able to get more power from it with out altering it much. im gonna make the exhaust completely straight (no cats cause we dont have laws on that here.) i've got a intercooler for it, and an oil cooler. i will have some pics for ya after i get the car. i just need to get back to the guy this morning but he's not answering his phone yet. and i have already had people tell me over an over about the EJ swaps, and i dont really care for them, i like originality in my cars, thats also why now that i have this GL-10 im going going to do the EA82 turbo swap on my other Subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 The BEST thing you can do for that engine, is make sure NO codes are posted in the ECU, replacing necessary sensors and the like, tune it up really well, and then maybe add a top mount intercooler. Don't adjust the boost... it will grenade. Good running and functioning ea82t's are still a hoot. Wagaru's t-wagon in 2wd would chirp the tires when it hit boost (foot off of clutch) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Great! ... to Keep it Original!!! Which one is your Other Subaru? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88 EA82T Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 I have the same car. 1988 GL10 full time 4WD with a 5 speed and 216,000 miles. I have kept it stock except I upgraded to a two row radiator, put in an OEM thermostat along with NGK plugs and wires. I have an 02 WRX intercooler but I haven't got around to figuring out how to make it fit yet. From my experience I would start by changing all the coolant lines and the intake manifold gaskets. I had been getting antifreeze leaks off and on until I finally got all of them replaced. I think the biggest thing to watch is the coolant temperature and make sure if it gets hot to back off and turn off the AC until it gets back to the normal temp. Mine runs at 3-4 bars up from the bottom on the digidash normally. Oil cooler is a good idea too. What cooler are you going to install? I am thinking of adding one too. Uh, I was going to attach some pictures but it won't let me attach them since I used them in another thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 (edited) "Thermostat got stuck while on the highway"......?!?! It doesn't work that way. How did the thermostat get closed? Unlikley. More likely it just straight blew the head gasket - pretty common with those. March down to the dealer and order ALL the coolant lines in the car. Get a 2-row radiator (hard to find now - everyone is saying they are out of stock and no longer manufactured). Hope you don't blow it. Sounds like it's on borrowed time - high mileage EA82T with blown head gaskets - sounds like a boat anchor to me. EJ swaps are so easy and well documented on the EA82 FI cars that it's a no-brainer. Why have 115 HP when you can have 135 or more easily. GD Edited December 14, 2010 by GeneralDisorder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted December 13, 2010 Author Share Posted December 13, 2010 (edited) Great! ... to Keep it Original!!! Which one is your Other Subaru? my other Subaru is a 1987 Subaru GL wagon with the 1.8 carb. its got a 5 speed manual and the dual range transfer case. its totally ballin off road. Edited December 14, 2010 by soobie_newbie67 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricearu Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 its totally ballin off road. :lol::lol::eek:OH SNAP WE GOT A BALLA ALERT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:lol::lol: Just messin, sorry for the hijack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) Oil cooler is a good idea too. What cooler are you going to install? I am thinking of adding one too. it actually wasnt used for engine oil the first time. my grandpa gave me this big old transmission cooler that im going to fit up to use as a oil cooler. the oil return line that comes from the turbo is metal, so i will just cut out a small section of that metal line with a pipe cutter and fit my oil cooler that way. and you mentioned a top mount inter cooler, could some tell me if the top mount inter coolers are better then a front mount inter cooler please. i have already bought a front mount inter cooler that i will have a super easy time installing (when i finally get my lazy rump roast up to go buy the tubing) oh yeah, also forgot to mention, i hooked the car up to a battery today to check and see if the digi-dash lights up, and sure enough it works. another thing i like about this car is the glass moon roof that slides open, definitely will get the attention of my girlfriend on dates, also will be awesome on warm summer nights. also, all the power windows work, but they go slow; i think it might be because i didnt actually have the battery in the car, i just used a battery and jumper cables. but could someone please tell me, is slow moving windows a good indication that i have to replace the motors? or do you thing they might just be sticky since the car has been sitting for 5 years.? Edited December 14, 2010 by soobie_newbie67 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 it actually wasnt used for engine oil the first time. my grandpa gave me this big old transmission cooler that im going to fit up to use as a oil cooler. the oil return line that comes from the turbo is metal, so i will just cut out a small section of that metal line with a pipe cutter and fit my oil cooler that way. The turbo oil passages are very small - cooling after the turbo will not effectively do anything as there will not be enough flow through the cooler to affect any real change - also the oil will drain back to the sump from such a large cooler and will cause a wide fluctuation in the oil level. A proper cooler is mounted between the pump and the oil filter and will circulate the full volume of the pump (after it's filtered) through the cooler. Which can be an air/oil cooler or a water/oil cooler. Water/oil is prefered as it warms the oil quicker and keeps the oil temp more even. Air/oil coolers such as that big transmission cooler can cool the oil too much and cause it to flow poorly (incorrect viscosity due to low operating temp). and you mentioned a top mount inter cooler, could some tell me if the top mount inter coolers are better then a front mount inter cooler please. i have already bought a front mount inter cooler that i will have a super easy time installing (when i finally get my lazy rump roast up to go buy the tubing) A front-mount is a bad choice for a small turbo such as the stock one used on the EA82T - the pipeing will be too long and this increase in volume after the turbo creates additional lag time while the turbo has to pressurize all that extra pipe and large intercooler internal cavity. Top mounts mostly avoid that by having very short piping requirements and thus tend to have better response time. It's about what you are doing with the car - if it's going to be a WOT race engine then a front-mount will be fine. For a daily driver that is going to run all through the RPM range then a front-mount can cause driveability issues. Subaru's answer for the top/front mount trade off was the AWIC style with a top mounted water/air IC and a front mounted radiator with an electric circulation pump, etc. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) About your Subie's Windows, This: ...do you thing they might just be sticky since the car has been sitting for 5 years.? the Answer is Somehow: Yes. The Grease on the Mechanism becomes too Hard... Also sometimes Connections Between the Relay unit and Plugs get Rusty Dust... if Problem Persist even with Battery on Board with Engine Runnin' I Kindly Suggest you to Clean & Re-Grease the Windows' Mechanisms; and if a Relay Swap is Needed, the Main unit is Located under the Passenger's Seat, near to the Under-Door's Wall. Kind Regards. Edited December 14, 2010 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 The turbo oil passages are very small - cooling after the turbo will not effectively do anything as there will not be enough flow through the cooler to affect any real change - also the oil will drain back to the sump from such a large cooler and will cause a wide fluctuation in the oil level. A proper cooler is mounted between the pump and the oil filter and will circulate the full volume of the pump (after it's filtered) through the cooler. Which can be an air/oil cooler or a water/oil cooler. Water/oil is prefered as it warms the oil quicker and keeps the oil temp more even. Air/oil coolers such as that big transmission cooler can cool the oil too much and cause it to flow poorly (incorrect viscosity due to low operating temp). A front-mount is a bad choice for a small turbo such as the stock one used on the EA82T - the pipeing will be too long and this increase in volume after the turbo creates additional lag time while the turbo has to pressurize all that extra pipe and large intercooler internal cavity. Top mounts mostly avoid that by having very short piping requirements and thus tend to have better response time. It's about what you are doing with the car - if it's going to be a WOT race engine then a front-mount will be fine. For a daily driver that is going to run all through the RPM range then a front-mount can cause driveability issues. Subaru's answer for the top/front mount trade off was the AWIC style with a top mounted water/air IC and a front mounted radiator with an electric circulation pump, etc. GD yes, thank you, all of this information is extremely helpful. but at the same time, doing a top mount inter cooler, does this mean that im going to have to cut a hole in my hood and but a little roof scoop like the wrx's have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 does this mean that im going to have to cut a hole in my hood and but a little roof scoop like the wrx's have? Not neccesarily - but it would help to have a hood scoop. Add a temp probe and see what the IAT is before/after the IC. You should be able to watch the temp rise and fall and see how much effect the IC is having. If there is not enough airflow the IC will saturate and pretty much stop working durring long pulls under boost. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 Not neccesarily - but it would help to have a hood scoop. Add a temp probe and see what the IAT is before/after the IC. You should be able to watch the temp rise and fall and see how much effect the IC is having. If there is not enough airflow the IC will saturate and pretty much stop working durring long pulls under boost. GD alright, well you said earlier the best inter coolers are the water/air inter coolers, so im gonna buy one. well, actually, my friend is going to buy one for me and we are going to trade intercoolers cause he wants my front mount intercooler for his Honda. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 The AWIC's are sweet - used on a lot of the earlier EJ stuff from JDM land. They can be found and hooked up - just make sure you know what you are getting into with one. That's a whole different animal and most people aren't equipped to retrofit one to an EA due to their higher level of complexity. An EJ would be cheaper..... just saying..... I love my EJ's GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tank Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 "Thermostat got stuck while on the highway"......?!?! It doesn't work that way...... GD Hey, could you tell that to my '88 GL10, because that's exactly what happened to me. Pulled over, popped out the thermostat, and ran cool the rest of the trip. Replaced it when I got home and haven't had any cooling issues since. So I'd say they can definitely get "stuck while on the highway." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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