Tosh Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 in other news, it runs. quite well I might had for not having the o2's hooked up and having a vac leak or two. Idles right around 2k hopefully that will be fix with the o2 and the vac lines. http://www.facebook.com/v/847877784233 I think there might be some profanity in the music I had playing when I recorded that so probably best not to blast it at work. just FIY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 So here is kind of a brakedown of what wires I hooked up to what. I have that full ECU pinout if anyone wants it. Its for 2001 EJ22's with a MAP sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 i didnt mean the wiring on the ea2ej diagram completely.. i know its much differnet the sense of smj's etc. i was just refering to the schematic from 12v, fuel pump, ign relay etc. i think i just worded it really dumb. LOL. i have the OO legacy fsm, i'll double check my pinouts the same, but not sure if the ej25 is different, i dont THINK it is. glad to hear its runnin considering whats not plugged in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted April 29, 2011 Author Share Posted April 29, 2011 Took it out for a spin. to "get the codes" its throwing ended up with P0183 FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR "A" CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT P0463 FUEL LEVEL SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT P0446 EVAP SYSTEM VENT CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW INPUT P1507 IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM MALFUNCTION (FAIL-SAFE) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 man, makes me wish i put a bigger lift on. however, that would definatly not fit in my garage with my rack on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 yeah, I have to prop my garage door up extra high as is to get it in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share Posted May 4, 2011 if your steering extension is too long, just cut the steering bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Took it out for a spin. to "get the codes" its throwing ended up with P0183 FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR "A" CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT P0463 FUEL LEVEL SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT P0446 EVAP SYSTEM VENT CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW INPUT P1507 IDLE CONTROL SYSTEM MALFUNCTION (FAIL-SAFE) hey Tosh, did you ever figure out a remedy to those Fuel temp/level codes? im getting those too. i figure i probably just need to track down the wire and put a resistor in it by the ecu. other than that, my stuffs running, im gonna get a EJ radiator today and swap that for the EA since my buddy is hookin me up for free.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted August 27, 2011 Author Share Posted August 27, 2011 I got all the codes worked out besides the fuel ones. And the car runs fine while throwing them so I'm not really gonna "worry" about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted August 27, 2011 Share Posted August 27, 2011 same here. its not that im worried about them, but it would be nice to have the light pop on when an actual code comes around. rather than checking it out periodically if something is going on. thats all really. whats your alternator setup like? mine has the black/white wire and then a light green/red (pretty sure its Lg/R) wire from the connector, i have the proper one run for the 'charge light'. i just put the other one into the other spot on the ea connector eh? the connector is just a 2 wire connector but there is an unused 3rd pin on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggreen96 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 I'm curious about getting the fuel codes sorted too. I see in my FSM for the 97 2.2 i have in the car that the ecu wants to see 2.3 -2.7 volts for the temp sensor and 2.5-3.8 for the fuel tank pressure. I have never wired resistors into anything so I'm unsure of what to do. But it seems like it would be easy just to wire one in to change 12v into 2.6 volts(if that is possible) and that would satisfy the ecu for both sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 here's what i am going to try. i got the old fuel pump and scavenged its internals, so i have the sensors i can just wire them in and hide them under the dash in a box or something. but for reference and for my own curiousity, i'll give a shot trying using resistors to cancel it out when i have a chance. i measured the resistance of the fuel temp sensor from my donor, it was about 1.66k ohms at my room temp which was about 75deg. dropped slightly when i breathed on it to heat it up. I'd look for a resistor or put a few resistors in series to make about that. Fuel level sending unit had a lower resistance range, from like 16-50ohms or so. i would stick a 33ohm resistor in there so it think its at half tank all the time. at the bottom you see the 2 pins needed for my situation, not sure if yours are the same you'll have to check your fsm for sure.. I would think you would just put the resistor on those wires/pins, and then ground the other end. im gonna put a VMM on it first to see if i am getting voltage out of the ecu which im pretty sure i am. (anyone can chime in correct me on that one if they know for sure!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggreen96 Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Standing here looking at the car and the engine bay I had an idea. Why not just wire the fuel temp sensor up and drop it into the windshield wash bottle? Seems like it would stay the same temp as the fuel in just about every situation. Especially in seattle where it's never super hot or cold. The pressure sensor could be tricked by being put into some sort of canister than you squeeze slightly to have it register some pressure. But I'd love to see resistors work too. I'll leave you to it then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) Standing here looking at the car and the engine bay I had an idea. Why not just wire the fuel temp sensor up and drop it into the windshield wash bottle? Seems like it would stay the same temp as the fuel in just about every situation. Especially in seattle where it's never super hot or cold. The pressure sensor could be tricked by being put into some sort of canister than you squeeze slightly to have it register some pressure. But I'd love to see resistors work too. I'll leave you to it then well, you probably couldnt just drop it in, you'd have to plumb it in, i would think the washer fluid is conductive and would just short out the wires if the whole thing was submerged in washer fluid unless you put some glue or something over that area of the sensor. not sure about the pressure sensor, i dont believe i have a code for that at the moment, i'll have to run the codes thru my computer again. maybe tie in a MAP sensor of some sort?? im not sure if the ecu controls fuel differently based on the temperature of it. depending where you are, it wont matter, but in wisconsin we definately have some season changes with 90+ degree days in summer and subzero days in winter. Edited September 14, 2011 by xbeerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted September 17, 2011 Share Posted September 17, 2011 I've eliminated 2 of my CEL's. the Fuel Level sending unit, and the fuel temperature gauge. in 2 ways... using the actual sensors and using resistors. the 2 resistors add up to about 1650ohms as what the fuel temperature sensor was at about 75 degrees. the lone resistor is the 33 ohm for the fuel level sensor. i like the compactness of the resistor option, so i'll probably stic with that one only CEL codes left are 446 (evap sensor low input (IIRC), and 1111 Atmospheric pressure sensor. (im using a AT ecu) if anyone knows a pin i can ground to make the car think its manual, i'd love to hear it, otherwise i'll wire in a sensor probably (if i can find it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggreen96 Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) So I went about wiring in the fuel temp sensor just now and.... There is no pin on the ecu plug to wire it to. A quick search confirms my year impreza donor does have the sensor on the fuel pump assembly(I actually have it here on the bench), but it isn't actually wired in. Cool. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-7578.html Same deal with the Fuel pressure sensor. Sooooo find a 97 impreza ecu. PN# 22611ac830 (or ac831, there are 3 pn's for this ecu, ac400 expects the sensors to be present I believe) I have not got the car running yet so I'm not 100% percent sure. BUT there are no wires in the harness for these sensors. Edited September 18, 2011 by biggreen96 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 I've eliminated 2 of my CEL's. the Fuel Level sending unit, and the fuel temperature gauge. in 2 ways... using the actual sensors and using resistors. the 2 resistors add up to about 1650ohms as what the fuel temperature sensor was at about 75 degrees. the lone resistor is the 33 ohm for the fuel level sensor. i like the compactness of the resistor option, so i'll probably stic with that one only CEL codes left are 446 (evap sensor low input (IIRC), and 1111 Atmospheric pressure sensor. (im using a AT ecu) if anyone knows a pin i can ground to make the car think its manual, i'd love to hear it, otherwise i'll wire in a sensor probably (if i can find it) Look at you go man! I knew you could trick it with some resistors. Good work on figuring out the resistance at a certain temp. Exactly what I would have done Glad you got that worked out! What year ECU do you have? I might have the ecu pinout I should be able to tell you what pin to ground to get rid of the 1111 code. It shouldn't be too hard to find... Most likely the atmos sensor is located on the TCU itself, hence why you need to change your ecu to a "manual", so that's why you might not be able find the actual sensor. I know that there is a atmos sensor on my 1990 tcu, because that's the input I use to control the DCCD in my modded tcu. So I know that sensor is unique to the TCU. What I am not sure of, is if the later year cars (OBDII) started including atmos in the ECU as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 (edited) Thanks dude. the atmospheric pressure sensor actually is not part of the TCU, well, from what i can tell based on the wiring diagram from the 00 legacy fsm. my ecu is from a automatic 2000 Outback ej25 sohc. i dont have a pressure sensor in my airbox, just a manifold pressure sensor on the manifold, so if the ecu would be tricked to think its manual. would i technically end up with the same problem just looking for a different sensor. as far as the atmospheric sensor. i think i busted it apart to make a 3 prong male/female set of connectors, LOL. if i recall its a white square sensor maybe 1" square about 1/8-1/4" thick with a mounting tab on it. im sure i can however, so the 3 pins listed for the sensor, i anticiapte i would just have to connect the power, signal, gnd pins together, and ground the signal out with a proper resistor to adjust to 14.7psi, i think i'll still find a sensor to put in tho. Edited September 24, 2011 by xbeerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 (edited) Bumpin this back from the dead. Rig has been running good, got me around when it snowed here this winter. I'm needing it to feel a more DD role so time to "fix" some things. It was my birthday on the 3rd and I got some things from amazon. new EMPI axel, axel pin removal tool, and some KYB GR2 struts. Axel, tool, and rear struts are here just waiting on the fronts. Edited June 12, 2012 by Tosh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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