help sliding bolt stuck in caliper 00 outback

[000utback]

Hey, trying to change the front pads on 2000 outback wagon. On each brake there is a bolt at the top and bottom that I removed to swing the caliper up and get the pads out. Those bolts are attached to slides in a frame, sealed with a bellows bushing. So, with new pads, those slides need to pushed in to the frame to get the caliper back on. THe top assemblies are in good shape, but the bottoms on left and right are frozen up. I managed to get one side loose with a torch, and can rotate it but not get it out. How can I get those slide things out so I can clean the hole and lubricate and stuff?

A typical 15 minute brake job is turning in to all afternoon.

THanks for any assistance!

[lmdew]

PB Blaster and let them soak. Once you get them out, you will have to get the bore cleaned up as well. Might be faster to get a new or used set.

[Rooster2]

+1 on using PB blaster. I did my brakes last summer on my 99 OBW, and had a can of PB blaster with me while wrenching. I used the stuff even before putting a drive socket on any bolt that looked rusty. Suggest using antisieze graphite cream on all bolts and slides upon reassembly. Makes the job a lot easier the next time you do a brake job.

[idosubaru]

i had one this past summer that would not come out. torch, soaking, etc did nothing. guy i know that owns a shop took it and i'm not sure how he did it but he used heat, he just said "i used the heat wrench on that thing".

[Steves72]

Had the same issue today while replacing the front pads on a 2K Legacy Outback. Right side lower pin frozen in place. Get a can of PB Blaster, a 19mm open end wrench, a hammer, a small straight screwdriver, and a large pair of vise grips. First spray. It helps if you use the small screwdriver to pry the rubber seal off the end. Hold the rubber open and spray the PB Blaster behind the rubber. Use the 19mm wrench (a 3/4 open end works as well) to get the pins to start rotating. Once you get the pins to start moving, apply more PB Blaster, keep working the wrench. Once you can turn the pin completely over, use the hammer to push the pin in. You need to get it moving in all directions. Attach the vise grips to the pin very securely. Use the hammer and hit the vice grips (not the pin) to get it to come back out of it's hole. Repeat process. Apply PB Blaster; keep working the 19mm wrench to rotate; hammer on pin (make certain to hit it squarely) to get it to go in, and hammer on vice grips attached to the pin to get it to slide out. It took some time but my brakes are on. Good Luck. Steve P.S. By the way I have acquired quite a vibration when applying the brakes. This only occurs with light brake pressure. Some testing is making me believe that pulsing is occurring. I am suspecting that the rotor on that side my be warped from the pin not floating properly. I plan to replace the rotors tomorrow. This may not happen to you but keep it in mind if you run into the same issue.

[Allpar Mod]

This is a way too common brake problem with our Soobs. Rooster's suggestion about using anti seize after you get it apart is a very good one. It is a much superior lubricant and protectant than just using grease for this particular application.

 

Make sure that after you get the seized parts out, you clean the keyway as well as possible before putting the new sliders in. Otherwise, you are just going to have to service them again way too soon. If you have a Dremel, they work pretty well for this with either a wire wheel attachment or grinding stone. Spray brake fluid through after you clean up the corrosion prior to reassembly.

[000utback]

Thanks for all the helpful responses. In addition to the comments above, I noticed that removing 2 17mm bolt heads will allow me to take the bracket off the hub. Working with it in a vise was much easier. Better position finally enabled me to pull the sucker out. It is badly pitted. Polished the bore with steel wool wrapped round a drill bit, and polished the pin. Reassembled with NeverSeize so Wifey can get it inspected tomorrow. The little rubber belows was ruined by the torch. Anybody have a part number to get just the belows; and how does it attach to the bracket? Seems to be very secure.

Well, thanks again. Your helpful was much more useful than digging through a manual.

[idosubaru]

i'd just call your local auto parts place and see if they can get the boot in, sounds like you want it quick.

 

make *sure* you're getting the right one. subaru changed brake components like crazy.