Rear suspension parts

[eppoh]

Our 2000 Impreza OB took a hit to the left rear wheel last week- against a curb.

 

The ear on the cross-member or hangar or whatever the differential is bolted to is bent where the control arm attaches.

 

I think that is what these parts are called.

 

I could really use a rear suspension diagram that shows the parts by name so I can order what I need.

 

I'm hoping that hanger, or crossmember can be heated and pulled back, other wise it is going to be a much bigger/expensive job.

 

Control arm is bent and I think the hub and knuckle is too.

[xman]

This is for a 2005, all the parts are still the same. That piece is called the rear crossmember, or rear subframe. The tubular pieces that attach to it are lateral links, the third member that bolts to the bottom of the hub is called the transverse link.

 

http://www.autopartslib.com/search/subaru+2000+impreza+rear+suspension+pictures

 

Yes, you should be able to just bend or pound the mounting ear back into position, do it all the time for rally cars. Don't bother heating it or you might melt stuff and need to repaint it or rust will get to it.

 

next time hit the other side, never crash on the driver side, always the codriver side

[eppoh]

Thanks very much.

How are you able to bend that ear back forward, or hammer it?

 

Maybe if it is up on a lift I could get some leverage, but with what.

 

The bolt that holds the front link on the crossmember is just touching the axle boot clamp, so there is not much room there.

[idosubaru]

subaru has a website called opposedforces with lots of good parts diagrams, teminology and part numbers. i'd start there. good luck.

[xman]

Thanks very much.

How are you able to bend that ear back forward, or hammer it?

 

Maybe if it is up on a lift I could get some leverage, but with what.

 

The bolt that holds the front link on the crossmember is just touching the axle boot clamp, so there is not much room there.

 

I would have to see it to recommend a course of action, but if necessary you need to remove the axle, then choose your weapon: pry bar, baby sledge etc. The steel is not really that heavy, you'd be surprised what you can do with a little applied force. Also, you might be able to use the bent link as a lever to bend it back also, once you disconnect it from the hub.

[idosubaru]

a picture might help us comment if you can visually see the damage. i've fixed a few wrecks and bumps and bruises. best bet is to replace everything you can.

[eppoh]

I'll try to get the wife's camera later and get photos.

 

Is it necessary to remove the axle to change the forward lateral link?

 

How is removing the rear different from the front?

[xman]

I'll try to get the wife's camera later and get photos.

 

Is it necessary to remove the axle to change the forward lateral link?

 

If they are not bent, no, removal not required. If bent, then who knows?

How is removing the rear different from the front?

 

Rear axles don't have roll pins, so they are even easier to pull out, but require removal of the lateral links from the hub, which can be a huge pain if the long bolt at the bottom of the hub has fused itself to the bushings in the hub, which happens more often than not on that vintage car. At that point a torch or sawzall is your friend cause it sounds like you need to replace the hub anyway. If the lateral links are bent, just cut them. Disassembly is fast and fun if you are going to throw the parts away anyhow.

 

Here is a really good pictorial writeup of how to get the lateral links out.

 

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?p=122909

Edited December 29, 2010 by xman

[eppoh]

I'm thinking of cutting the link off near the knuckle so I can use it to lever the crossmember ear back into postion.

 

Since the hub is probably ruined I may replace the hub and knuckle anyway.

 

What do you think?

[xman]

I would try to get a pry bar in there between the axle and the tab if you can and bend it out some that way, just becareful of the boot. If there is not room, then pull everything off and use a 2x4 to help brace against the rear tab and bend it closer to straight. You will likely need to take it to an alignment shop after you get everything together anyway and tell them what happened, they can get it up on an alignment machine and "massage" it within specs so you don't have any funky toe issues in the back.

 

You seem up to the task given that you are going to replace the parts. Worst case scenario is replacing the entire rear crossmember, which involves removing a bunch more bolts, that by the looks of things are probably rusted in place pretty well. 2 lateral links, a hub and possibly a new axle nut are what I would start with. Hopefully the mounting tabs on the strut are not bent too much or cracked where they are welded to the tube.

 

Best of luck.

[eppoh]

Tried a pry bar, but not enough purchase to get any real pry on it. Plus, being so close to the ground, there is not enough room for a long bar, even on stands.

 

Think I will have the local body shop/wrecker/ haul it in and put it on a rack to straighten the cross member. He does pull frames.

 

I really don't want to try and replace the cross member. Some of the bolts on the drive shaft housing? are really rusted bad, so dropping the diff would be a major task itself.

[Fairtax4me]

Really hard to see much there. I'd probably just replace the whole cross member to avoid alignment problems. Not sure how hard it will be to get it set properly. Might need some tweaking or cutting to get it where it needs to be.

I'm really surprised the link didn't bend first. They're supposed to bend to prevent damage to the frame. You must have hit it just right to do that.

[eppoh]

The link is bent/twisted. The rear one is not but the bracket for the sway bar bushing is widened out just a bit.

 

He was only doing about 25 when he started the spin before he hit the curb.

It was at a sort of oblique angle, pushing in and forward against the wheel. Didn't even deflate the tire.