subikid90 Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 So Before break I was having idling problems and so I dug around and noticed that one of the wires on the TPS sensor plug was falling apart, down to like 3-4 strands of wire. So I went to the junk yard and cut the plug of another legacy with an ej22, and I also got the sensor for the heck of it. It looks the same as the ej25 sensor and plug already on the car. I cut the old one off and used butt connector to install the new one. The colors matched up so I don't think there is a problem there. Before I cut the old plug I had no codes popping up, just a wacky idle. Once I installed the new plug, heat shrunk everything and put the sensor back in I had P0122 pop up. Now the car wont idle under about 1800 RPM, and after a long freeway drive (20 mins) it will drop down to 1400 RPM. I check the voltage comming from the ECU to the plug and it is 5.7V, the haynes manual says it should be around 5V. The resistance on the origional TPS sensor is 74.5 ohms and the EJ22 sensor is 84.7 ohms. The haynes manual says nothing about a resistance range. I am going to go look in the FSM later. So as far as everything being correct I see nothing wrong unless 5.7V is too much, but P0122 is a low signal input code. Anyone have any insight on this problem. Should I try and solder the connections? I don't want to buy a new TPS sensor if thats not the problem. I have tried both sensors by the way and the original sensor works a week but better. I also posted this on LGT, I am around there more and will update on there. If you have anything that I should check or do let me know. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tps-sensor-p0122-152740.html Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 (edited) did you replace the wire connector and the sensor or just the connector?? P0120 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0121 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Range Problem P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Range Problem P0123 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit High Input these code definitions are from http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ , i really don't know if they are accurate. but i have no reason yet to doubt them. Edited January 4, 2011 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 4, 2011 Author Share Posted January 4, 2011 As far as i have read a P0122 is a TPS low input, and the FSM says the same. I replaced the connector and have tried the original and another sensor from a ej22, where the plug came from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 4, 2011 Share Posted January 4, 2011 Resistance sounds wrong. ej22 TPS should range between approx. 3000-12,000 ohms w/throttle movement.(white/black wires) TPS also has a switch as well as a potentiometer.(brown/black wires) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 5, 2011 Author Share Posted January 5, 2011 That resistance was take on the + pin and the middle pin with the TPS off the car completely closed. If I open it up at all I get 0 ohms. it sounds like I need to have the car on and test voltages and resistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Anyone have any other ideas. I plan to dig into this Friday, just trying to get a solution quick lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 (edited) 3. Engine does not return to idle. 1) Idle air control solenoid valve 2) Engine coolant temperature sensor 3) Accelerator cable (*6) 4) Throttle position sensor In this case, repair the following: Poor contact in throttle position sensor connector Poor contact in ECM connector Poor contact in coupling connector (B21) 5) Mass air flow sensor Edited January 6, 2011 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 4) Throttle position sensor In this case, repair the following: Poor contact in throttle position sensor connector Poor contact in coupling connector (B21)Replace throttle position sensor. Replace throttle position sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bru73 Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 the tps senser needs to be set with a scanner that showes data it must be at0% throttle and at o.53-0.55volts test with key on engine off ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Agreed 100% with the last post. TPS's are a potentiometer. They need to be set up. You can't just bolt it on and go. 0% throttle opening angle, and usually they are around .48 volts at idle. Usually even a cheap scanner that shows live data will give you this info. If you bolted it on and have a high idle now, it sounds like the sensor is improperly adjusted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 As they're suggesting - did you adjust the TPS prior to installing? On older Subaru's you can do it without a gauge, I'd be tempted to try the same on newer gen if i ever have too. Just turn the TPS until it wants to stall, then back it off a hair from there for it to idle, then it's golden. If it worked fine before and now it won't it's doubtful the TPS is bad. If the wire was exposed prior to this work then is it possible there's corrossion a few inches down the wiring? I've seen this before - where an exposed wire has a good 4 - 6 inches of green corroded nastiness as you peel back the wire sheathing beyond just the exposed portion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 The first thing I would do is remove the stupid butt connectors!! I would NEVER use them in the engine compartment, especially on something like the TPS that is super sensitive to begin with. Solder and heat shrink are going to be the only way to go for any type of sensor. So with that being said, remove the butt connectors, and then trace all the wires in the harness back at least 12" and check for corrosion replacing any wire with new using solder and heat shrink. If there is no corrosion, then put the original TPS back on with solder and heat shrink. Then clear your codes and start over once you have a clean, solid connection, and tell us what happens. Butt connectors are a great way to add resistance to any circuit, they just aren't designed for that sort of thing. When you are dealing with sensors, they are usually very sensitive to any sort of added noise, and a butt connector is a great way to add noise. Butt connectors are great for things that aren't sensitive to resistance, like lights, and other accessories, but they suck for sensors... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 good info on the butt connectors. i don't think he actually swapped the TPS though. i'm not clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 (edited) good info on the butt connectors. i don't think he actually swapped the TPS though. i'm not clear. I wasn't quite sure either, that's why I just said to put it back to "stock" after soldering the connections, then we can at least rule out the connection, and start working on the real problem, if there is one... Hopefully it's something simple like the connection, and nothing serious. Edit: Honestly butt connectors are ok for most things, I just don't trust them for every situation. And in this case, there were no code before, used butt connectors and now there's codes. So I would guess that the butt connectors have something to do with it. I do use butt connectors myself for certain things, like installing my keyless entry, and even on parts of my remote start (not on the ignition wires). But if you think about it, a butt connector is like a little antenna when adding it to wire, so it will pick up more noise and amplify it just because it is adding more metal to the circuit. Solder and heat shrink add very little metal to the circuit and keep the wires more "in spec" if you would. Butt connectors are very useful tools, but when it comes to sensitive electronics I would stay away from using them if possible. Edited January 6, 2011 by eulogious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 plus, if the wire fell apart at the connector, then it could well have fallen apart somewhere else. and working with to make repairs could have ''stressed'' it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 6, 2011 Author Share Posted January 6, 2011 Ok to clear it up I have tried two TPS sensor. And i have adjusted them both, the first one I never removed until after the repair and it was acting funny. I had a feeling butt connectors wouldnt work. Looks like ill solder and try again. Thanks for all of your help. Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted January 6, 2011 Share Posted January 6, 2011 Cool, sounds good! Let us know the results! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 7, 2011 Author Share Posted January 7, 2011 Well I got everything pulled apart and cleaned the throttle body good. I also soldered the TPS plug on. Tonight I hope to get it back together and running lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted January 7, 2011 Share Posted January 7, 2011 Good stuff :cool: I always feel better having soldering stuff, lets hope the car feels the same way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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