tucka786 Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 (edited) Thanks to everyone replying to my earlier posts I did get the engine (bench test) started. However after trying again after a few days it won't start again. I followed previous advice and did the following again 1) set tdc by removing sparkplug cylinder #1 , rotated pulley until all pressure released.Replaced sparkplug and wire. 2) set rotor pointing at #1 , first cylinder on left side (when looking at engine from front) 3) coil wiring is correct yellow to minus and black and white to positive. 4)Have checked spark plug leads and firing order correct to all cylinders 5) Have repalced engine with new plugs and fuel is getting to carb by using easy start spray just get it firing Engine will crank over fine won't not fire again. Can't think why as it fired only a few days back. Have also tried to locate tdc by using test light by attaching negative lead to minus of coil and grounding it on engine. Have rotated the pulley but test light stays all the time so can't set tdc? I'm thinking it could be the distributor ? but I'm getting spark to all the plugs and they engine fired only a few days back. The distributor is a Hitachi D4R82.Is it possible to test the distributor outside the car and if so how ? Could it be the coil ? Really need help to get it firing again . Thanks in advance. Tucker. Edited January 8, 2011 by tucka786 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 If the plugs are getting spark then the ignition is working and something else is wrong. Compression and timing belts should be checked next if the ignition is working ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tucka786 Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 I don't think there's timing belt...compression is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 You find TDC by rotating the engine till you feel air being pushed past your finger over the plug hole - then use a drinking straw, etc to determine when the piston reaches the top of it's travel. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tucka786 Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 Thanks for the replies. The straw test ..should the piston have full travel to the top? or at the start of the compression stroke i.e just starting to rise from the bottom ? or somwhere in between ? I checked the coil teminals with a 12v test lamp and light comes on both on + and - when grounded. When I crank the engine the test light goes dim from both + and - of the coil . Is this correct ? Also is it possible to set tdc with a test lamp ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 I don't think it's possible to set it with a test lamp. You are looking for the piston to be at the top of it's travel with the straw - that's where the plug should fire and thus that's when the rotor needs to be pointing at the plug tower. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATCHY Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Even if your timing is not exact the car will still start. And sounds to me like you can't be more then a degree. Off or so. You should ha e no issues getting to fire. I had the same issue You had and it turned out to be my distributor. . One other possible thing is fuseable link. And or check your grounds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tucka786 Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 Again thanks for the advice/input. I will try again then feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 I forgot that the EA81s didn't use timing belts. In post #5 I think I see something you stated that may be causing the trouble. You stated that the test light probe was showing a dim condition when you tested the + side of the coil. There should be at least 10 volts getting to that point even if there is a ballast resistor in the circuit. If the light is real dim then there is a bad power connection to the coil. Possibly from the ignition switch. When you place the test probe on the minus side of the coil with the ignition ON it is normal to see power there also since the coil passes the DC voltage. When you crank the engine then the light should pulse on and off with each firing pulse because that side of the coil ties to ground with each firing pulse. The ground condition causes the light to turn off since both side of the probe will be at ground potential during the short pulse period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tucka786 Posted January 8, 2011 Author Share Posted January 8, 2011 ok, tried again , followed all instructions regarding straw test for piston tdc and rotor at #1 cylinder on plug tower . Still does'nt fire ! Following up Cougars post the 12v test probe lights up bright with igntion on when testing the coil from first the + side of coil to ground then from - side pf coil to ground. However when the same test is done with the engine cranking over the probe light goes dim and is no longer bright .Also the test light does not pulsate i.e light does not go On and Off just stays dim. This is the same testing both sides of the coil individually + and then - when cranking. Is this a problem with the firing pulse ? I'm not sure why this is happening ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 If you aren't seeing firing pulses on the minus side of the coil while cranking the engine then something is most likely wrong inside the disty. If there is a crank sensor inside it then it may be bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tucka786 Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 (edited) I've placed the test light on the - and + of the coil with ignition on , no light ? cranked over and very dim blinking .I then have checked again with the distributor out and turning the Distributor gear by hand grounding to engine and test light shows very dim blinking as distribtor gear turns. Are these symptoms of a faulty ingniter unit in the distributor ? Edited January 9, 2011 by tucka786 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATCHY Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Pull apart. Sounds like a disty. Fuseable links are all good no burnt ones. I believe of the fuseable link is bad. Of will not allow the engine to fire. So it wont cause damage to the engine and electrical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HATCHY Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Pull apart. Sounds like a disty. Fuseable links are all good no burnt ones. I believe of the fuseable link is bad. Of will not allow the engine to fire. So it wont cause damage to the engine and electrical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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