derfster Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 i just recently got my legacy gt running, after a battle installing an engine but now thats over now i have a new problems. Its stuck in awd and the AT TEMP blinks bout 16 times and then goes out . whats up with that . the auto transmission shifts fine drives good . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 8, 2011 Share Posted January 8, 2011 Its stuck in awd and the AT TEMP blinks bout 16 times and then goes out . . i copied this from several other threads, please dis regard things that are clearly not directed to you. the most common failure is a bad duty-c solenoid in the rear extension housing. costs about 100$ from online dealer. you can do it in the drive way if you don't mind working under the car. if the duty c fails it should trigger a flashing AT Temp light at start up which indicates an electrical fault in the trans. there is a fuse holder under the hood passenger side behind the strut tower. put a fuse in there and see if that clears up the binding . if yes, then your duty c is probably ok. the pic below shows the transfer clutch which is in the rear extension housing on the rear of the trans. there are clutch plates inside the drum and and a matching drum on the rear of the trans that slides into the one you see. and the doodad with the green wire is the duty-c solenoid. read the link below, scream when you have had enough. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=flashing+temp+light how did the car run before you pulled the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 I have often prescribed to the "if it doesnt work hit it with a bigger hammer" but i have never seem so many hammers in one place of the same size before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted January 9, 2011 Author Share Posted January 9, 2011 i copied this from several other threads, please dis regard things that are clearly not directed to you. the most common failure is a bad duty-c solenoid in the rear extension housing. costs about 100$ from online dealer. you can do it in the drive way if you don't mind working under the car. if the duty c fails it should trigger a flashing AT Temp light at start up which indicates an electrical fault in the trans. there is a fuse holder under the hood passenger side behind the strut tower. put a fuse in there and see if that clears up the binding . if yes, then your duty c is probably ok. the pic below shows the transfer clutch which is in the rear extension housing on the rear of the trans. there are clutch plates inside the drum and and a matching drum on the rear of the trans that slides into the one you see. and the doodad with the green wire is the duty-c solenoid. read the link below, scream when you have had enough. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=flashing+temp+light how did the car run before you pulled the engine? I had a fuse in the car when this happend . I kinda thought it was this but just wanted a second opinion . the car didnt run when i got it it, has a jdm engine ad runs like a rocket after an extencive cleaning of the entire engine cat converters and engine bay. You wouldnt beleve what a clean engine will do. thanks ill order a duty c - solenoid . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 I had a fuse in the car when this happend . I kinda thought it was this but just wanted a second opinion . the car didnt run when i got it it, has a jdm engine ad runs like a rocket after an extencive cleaning of the entire engine cat converters and engine bay. You wouldnt beleve what a clean engine will do. thanks ill order a duty c - solenoid . the other solution which costs less is to make it a FWD car by removing the rear section of drive shaft. you have to leave the front section of drive shaft or the fluid will leak out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 the other solution which costs less is to make it a FWD car by removing the rear section of drive shaft. you have to leave the front section of drive shaft or the fluid will leak out. Then buy a honda? You would get zero gain for a car designed to handle best with AWD, there would be a lot of dead weight and alot of drag from the rear diff. You do not need all those overbuilt parts to handle the AWD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 No extra weight or drag if you remove the rear diff and half axles as well. Did you have this problem before the swap? Did you put a jack under the transmission pan during the engine install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 No extra weight or drag if you remove the rear diff and half axles as well. Did you have this problem before the swap? Did you put a jack under the transmission pan during the engine install? Someone tried that on another buard the rear wheel bearings were not that happy (I still dont know why). Then how do you shed the other 500-600 lbs. :-p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Apparently the wheel bearings (front and rear) are preloaded when the axle nuts are tightened. So leaving the rear outer cv axle housings in place would keep the preload on the bearings. Then how do you shed the other 500-600 lbs. Go on a diet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 AWD doesn't weigh 500lbs. Rear diff is probably 80lbs, the axles 30lbs, extra crossmember 20lbs, driveshaft 20lbs, transfer housing and guts 50lbs. So 200lbs for the whole rear drivetrain vs. being FWD only. You could easily pop apart the outer CV's on the rear axles and leave them in the hubs, pull the diff, differential front crossmember, and driveshafts out and make it a FWD subaru. That's what subaru offered until 95 or 96 anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Why would you go thru all the time a trouble to make the car FWD when the job of fixing the duty C isn't all that bad and you have the car as designed? Besides, the AWD tranny really isn't made to run in FWD all the time. You are only supposed to use that fuse when running the spare tire. I know that alot of people have done it, but if I did it the tranny would blow up a week later and I would be left with a non driveable car. For what it is worth, just fix it right the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 OR pull the rear section of drive shaft and make it fwd UNTIL it's not 18 degrees out side with 4'' of snow on the ground. i guess i should hve been more clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Why would you go thru all the time a trouble to make the car FWD when the job of fixing the duty C isn't all that bad and you have the car as designed? Besides, the AWD tranny really isn't made to run in FWD all the time. You are only supposed to use that fuse when running the spare tire. I know that alot of people have done it, but if I did it the tranny would blow up a week later and I would be left with a non driveable car. For what it is worth, just fix it right the first time. The automatic awd tanny is designed to be FWD. The transfer clutch is just tacked on to the end of the front pinion shaft as an add on. If you leave the fuse in all the time, it won't blow the tranny up, however it can cook the duty C solenoid, which is already broken in this case, and it defaults back to 4wd. If you remove the rear driveline, you don't need to put the fuse in because it no longer matters if the clutchpack is locked up or not, it's not connected to anything. If you don't have the time/money to fix a failed duty C solenoid, pulling the rear half of the driveshaft is a viable option and better than driving around with binding 4wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Guys and gals. Please ask more follow up questions or link to similar threads if you want to point at common problems/solutions. Relax and read the posts closer. Jumping to conclusions or known/common problems is getting a little fast trigger happy around here. While you could be right the likelyhood is pretty low. He just put an engine in the car and then promptly had a problem with the AWD system?!? How about something unplugged, pan crushed because the guy jacked the car up with the transmission pan, etc. Why didn't anybody suggest pulling the code out of the transmission? Fluid level, condition. Check engine light on? Miles on the transmission and car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Reply #7. I can't blame the OP if he/she did not see it though, as we have cluttered the thread up quite a bit with off topic BS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchwarzeEwigkt Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Someone tried that on another buard the rear wheel bearings were not that happy (I still dont know why). Then how do you shed the other 500-600 lbs. :-p The wheel bearings are designed to have the axles bolted in place over them to provide an axial load and hold it all down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derfster Posted January 20, 2011 Author Share Posted January 20, 2011 Thanks for all the replys even though some of the replys were off subject a bit , but someone might be looking for that info,you never know . does any one know where to find a c duty sillynoid i cant find one .. thanks to all ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 20, 2011 Share Posted January 20, 2011 (edited) Thanks for all the replys even though some of the replys were off subject a bit , but someone might be looking for that info,you never know . does any one know where to find a c duty sillynoid i cant find one .. thanks to all ..... www.subarupartsforyou.com www.subarugenuineparts.com find the part number at: http://opposedforces.com/parts if you do a search you may find the part number on our site. Edited January 20, 2011 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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