Subarat Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Hello all. Need any help/insight you might have. The short story is....my 85 BRAT 1800 is a California car. The other night when I turned it off it would not stop running. The ignition checks out and I believe its the computer. It is flashing at me. I was told to "re-boot" it by disconecting the battery. No help. NAPA has a reman computer and thats where I am leaning. Any other suggestions? Thanx, Subarat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 It eventually died, or it stumbled, or it just plain kept running perfectly? I highly doubt its the computer unless its a Turbo EFI model but even then. If its carb'd the computer has nothing to do with it running or not just how it runs. I would lean to the ignition/fuel pump relays if its the 3rd option but I haven't ever heard of a Brat doing that. Is it a Turbo? All the turbos are 83/84 but some people misread the build date and its possible a couple got carried over to 85 year I suppose but its unlikely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 It is not the computer.It is the ignition switch. Only way to keep running is to have 12 volts on the coil. Ignition switch controls this.No relays involved.No computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Probably not the computer - the engine will run with that completely disconnected and thrown in the trash (just for example) and will still shut off, etc. The EA81 feedback ECU's don't even control the fuel pump. Sounds like you have a short that's powering the ignition coil without the switch being in the on posistion. Could be the ignition switch itself even. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 (edited) Could be Possible it is Dieseling Somehow? ... Does it Has a Non-Stock Carb, like a Weber in Example? 'cos those Doesn't have the Cut-Off Electrical Valve. Edited January 14, 2011 by Loyale 2.7 Turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 he has already replaced the ignition. it seems that the shop told him there is a tie somewhere between the computer and the ignition...like a cut off that is not cutting off. cheers, b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 The computer does not have any ability to affect ignition - in any way. It is a fuel trim computer only. It runs two mixture control duty solenoids with a handful of sensor inputs. It sees a tach signal and that is it's only connection to the ignition system. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I concur with the ignition switch conclusions. Happened to my '83 wagon, replaced ignition switch-voila. Please let us know what solved the problem? Just my 2 bucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 It is probably not the switch. It is more than likely the pink connection under the steering column. The hot lead over-heats for some reason. You may have to replace the connectors or just seperate the affected wires and add new connections for them seperate of the harness. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 (edited) My first thoughts on the trouble were stuck relays or bad ignition switch also as others here have stated already. If there are no ignition relays and the ignition switch has been replaced already then there must be a bridged path to power on the ignition circuit somehow. Check for power on the + coil lead while the ignition is OFF. If power is found there then start removing fuses in a effort to find which circuit is providing the power. As a wild guess try removing the rear connector on the alternator to see if that helps. If it does kill the path to power then replace the alternator. To see if the ECU is providing the path somehow disconnect it while monitoring the voltage at the coil. Edited January 14, 2011 by Cougar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 It is probably not the switch. It is more than likely the pink connection under the steering column. The hot lead over-heats for some reason. You may have to replace the connectors or just seperate the affected wires and add new connections for them seperate of the harness. +1. I have seen this before. The connection is poor and will melt the plastic eventually leading to a short - in your case the short may be bypassing the switch for the ignition power. I would sugest ording a new ignition switch from the dealer ($35) as they get pretty worn out by this vintage usually. That will give you new connections on the switch side - then you can either solder in a good body side connector or clean it up as best you can and replace those pins that you can't save with crimp-on spade terminals. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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