Doing the EJ25 to EJ22

[PAJ]

Well, after wasting time playing around with various miracle elixirs that did nothing for my 2.5 head gasket that finally breached like the Johnstown Dam, I'm going to plug in a 97 EJ22 in my 98' Legacy OB wagon. So much for that new DOHC timing belt I've been keeping for a rainy day.

 

Anyway, I have a line on an EJ22 that has only ~130k and the price is right. It also comes with the coveted exhaust manifold that I'll need. It'll be a joy to replace that cinch of a SOHC timing belt and can see that youse all recommend that the idlers and maybe even the tensioner be changed out as well. Anything else you can think of while I have it out up the stand? Also, in your opinion are the aftermarket belt kits worth their weight or should I stick with OEM parts as has been repeated over and over and over....

 

Thanx all.

[LegacyBrad]

Since you will have both engine out at the same time, why not do the Frankenmotor? 2.5 heads on the 2.2? I hear its good for a nice boost in power.

[Olnick]

Sounds like a good plan, just be aware that the '97 EJ22 is an interference engine.

 

We used a kit from The Import Experts--belt, idlers and water pump--on my son's '92 Legacy. Everything appeared to be good quality and it saved significant coin.

 

But some things "must be" OEM: water pump gasket, thermostat, cam & crank seals, oil pump o-ring, cam o-rings (left front & right rear.) It's worth the little bit more cost.

 

Good luck PAJ, and do keep us up on your progress.

[davebugs]

Sounds like a good plan, just be aware that the '97 EJ22 is an interference engine.

 

We used a kit from The Import Experts--belt, idlers and water pump--on my son's '92 Legacy. Everything appeared to be good quality and it saved significant coin.

 

But some things "must be" OEM: water pump gasket, thermostat, cam & crank seals, oil pump o-ring, cam o-rings (left front & right rear.) It's worth the little bit more cost.

 

Good luck PAJ, and do keep us up on your progress.

 

All sounds good. Reseal the baffle plate and leave the rear main alone. I use Ultra-Grey, some folks like to buy a new metal one and then you need new screws as well. Best to use one of those impacts to remove the philips screws on this.

 

I forget if a 97 2.2 has those skinny Orings for the cam's or not. On the drivers side basically by the cam sensor(that whole piece comes off so if so do the Oring before the cam seal on the drivers side) then on pass side it's on eht eback.

 

Don't forget to really torque down the crank bolt.

 

I throw fresh NGKs in it the cheapies but V groove with the green writing.

 

May wanna check valve cover gaskets. I always fo all 3 belts (timing, PS, AC) infact I actually get the AC 1/2 inch (IIR deduct 5 from the last number) shorter and the one for the PS 1/2 inch longer (get tired of forgetting and having to loosen up the PS pump to get the belt one.

 

As I mentioned here the other day if you just pull the rad fans make sure to cover the rad with cardboard or an old piec of paneling.

 

 

If you need a single port Y pipe PM me - I still have 3 or 4 of each (single and dual) hanging in the rafters for sale.

 

I use theimportexperts kits all the time. BTW always check on Ebay as well. I was shopping for a VW VR6 clutch and they had one on Ebay 40 bucks cheaper than when I called the 800#. I've had that happen but not to that degree with some VW timing belt kits. I believe they stock Dayco and Continental now and their "standard" belt used to be MitsubOsi. I usually source the Water Pump and Dayco TB local (and the accessory belts) but their prices on accessory belts were half price for Continentals. I have installed a few MitsubOshi's on 95 2.2's that were non-interference without any issues.

 

Allow a little possible "plumbing time" for EVAP and VC breathers and such that often needs a little attention.

 

Good luck. Not really a difficult job. BTW 14mm flex for especially nut by drivers axle. 12mm(I forget) offset wrench or I use a gearwrench "roto head" or something 1/4 drive ratchet for flex plate bolts if an auto. Don't forget to stick a rag in there when removing and installing flex plate bolts. Those flexplate bolts are tight - probably need a cheater.

 

If you look around there should be lots of how-to's even with endwrench unavailable.

[PAJ]

Egg-cellent ideas folks! I won't do everything recommended until it gets above freezing around here but I have a plan. (Didn't Homer Simpson state "I said that I had a plan. I didn't say that it was a good one...")

 

Gotta say that the comment about the evap and VC plumbing scares the bejesus me but I'm sure there are loads of posts to get me through it.

 

When I swapped the tranny those flex plate bolts were a devil for me to manage until I finally got smart and paid my daughter a buck a bolt to use her tiny fingers to simply reach in there and make childs play of it! I think it took all of a few minutes to put em all back in. It was a heck of alot easier than trying to fumble my filthy fat sausage fingers in there. Don't ask me about gettin em torqued back up. I used the "estimate" method since I couldn't find a way through the intake manifold maze.... hey, it was cold! What's the worst that can happen, right?

Edited January 25, 2011 by PAJ

[davebugs]

That plumbing is really pretty easy to figure out especially if you have both complete engines and left that crap on the 2.2.

 

EVAP plumbing. If the canisters were in the same place on both cars should be easy.

 

The MAP and whatever things lines over to the pass side strut tower. Sometimes there is a T or two, sometimes not. Sometimes 2 small lines coming out of the back side of the #3 intake, sometimes one has a plug(square head) screwed into it.

 

Easiest are the VC breathers.

 

Every swap seems to be a little different. But really no biggie.

 

Only other minor comment (if you haven't already read about it) is that there is no place to bolt the PS lines to by the intake - but no biggie - it doesn't matter.

 

 

Do the baffle plate/oil seperator while it's out!!