how to grab the drive plate to TC bolts

[bgambino]

doing my 98 oil separator plate today...I really hate the limited access to the bolts that hold the drive plate to the torque convertor

a socket wrench is a little too big...a box wrench can't do it

 

Is someone using a soecial wrench or socket?

thanks

[94Loyale]

I have a long Snap On box end wrench with a 10 on one side and 12 on the other. It's the best one I found for them, and I do these everyday...literally. There is no offset, It's prob about 1ft long. With those bolts it's all about the first hit to break them loose. I make sure I have a firm grip on it with the wrench and the hit it hard the first time.

 

Edit, for future reference, the drive plate you are talking about is called the flexplate

Edited January 29, 2011 by 94Loyale

[GeneralDisorder]

1/4" ratchet and shallow socket work great for me. I put a ratchet on the crank bolt to counter my loosening/tightening force. Sometimes I slip a pipe over the 1/4" ratchet handle.

 

Nothing special. It helps to disconnect the TPS and IAC, etc and move the wiring as well as some of the PCV hoses.

 

Really not that big of a deal.

 

GD

[davebugs]

I use a Gearwrench 1/4 "roto head" ratchet and a socket. I never could find a good box end with the offset that worked for me in my existing collection.

 

You'll need a cheater bar - they are tight at the start - don't hit yourself in the head when they break loose.

 

I stuff a rag in there incase I drop the bolt when removing and installing.

[WoodsWagon]

I use a shallow 6pt 3/8" drive socket and my fancy dancy flex head snapon ratchet. It's a finetooth one with a long handle, so with a breaker bar on the crank bolt and that ratchet, it works pretty well.

 

Just got through that with an auto to manual swap on a friends 2.2turbo. Zilch for access to those with the turbo on there.