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how to grab the drive plate to TC bolts


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doing my 98 oil separator plate today...I really hate the limited access to the bolts that hold the drive plate to the torque convertor

a socket wrench is a little too big...a box wrench can't do it

 

Is someone using a soecial wrench or socket?

thanks

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I have a long Snap On box end wrench with a 10 on one side and 12 on the other. It's the best one I found for them, and I do these everyday...literally. There is no offset, It's prob about 1ft long. With those bolts it's all about the first hit to break them loose. I make sure I have a firm grip on it with the wrench and the hit it hard the first time.

 

Edit, for future reference, the drive plate you are talking about is called the flexplate :)

Edited by 94Loyale
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1/4" ratchet and shallow socket work great for me. I put a ratchet on the crank bolt to counter my loosening/tightening force. Sometimes I slip a pipe over the 1/4" ratchet handle.

 

Nothing special. It helps to disconnect the TPS and IAC, etc and move the wiring as well as some of the PCV hoses.

 

Really not that big of a deal.

 

GD

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I use a Gearwrench 1/4 "roto head" ratchet and a socket. I never could find a good box end with the offset that worked for me in my existing collection.

 

You'll need a cheater bar - they are tight at the start - don't hit yourself in the head when they break loose.

 

I stuff a rag in there incase I drop the bolt when removing and installing.

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I use a shallow 6pt 3/8" drive socket and my fancy dancy flex head snapon ratchet. It's a finetooth one with a long handle, so with a breaker bar on the crank bolt and that ratchet, it works pretty well.

 

Just got through that with an auto to manual swap on a friends 2.2turbo. Zilch for access to those with the turbo on there.

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