soobie_newbie67 Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 lifters are still clacking and my Haynes manual said it can be because of the oil pump. pulled oil pump, replaced all gaskets, seals, o-rings, no change in oil pressure. does this mean i need a new pump? oh, oil pressure is just below 50 when first started at 1600-1800 rpm, and is at 25 and below fully heated up at same rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Quick response while I try to think... Did you examine the oil pump for wear? There are a couple specific clearances that should be checked, but a quick visual examination of the 2 rotating parts (proper names escape me) where they ride against each other will often show abrasive damage (scratches, gouges). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 It is my understanding that you should have 10 psi oil pressure for every 1000 RPM, so if you have at least that you should be fine. you may just need to pull apart your lifters and clean them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 (edited) It is my understanding that you should have 10 psi oil pressure for every 1000 RPM, so if you have at least that you should be fine. you may just need to pull apart your lifters and clean them out. only 10 psi for 1000 rpms??? that doesnt make since. you'd be running 9 psi at 900 rpm. that wouldnt support anything. my 1987 Subaru GL carbed was running 47 psi at a 900 rpm idle, and 57 psi at 2500 rpm. 57 @2500 is what the book spec is so i was really surprised for an engine with 200,000 miles on it. i guess im gonna need to measure those parts like northwet said. oh, and i did get the lifters serviced. the oil pressure is so low that its obviouse the HLA's wont pump up. Edited January 31, 2011 by soobie_newbie67 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 You don't know a thing till you check the pressure with a shop gauge. The dash gauge is worse than useless. They are very inaccurate. The pump needs to be carefully mic'd and the clearance with the block checked. Ultimately it may not be something you can solve. Lots of people have tried and failed. It is my personal opinion that wear in the lifter buckets that are pressed into the heads is part of the cause for ticking and if some of those are worn from extended ticking and/or poor oil delivery - chances are it will tick for the rest of it's days. I had an EA82 with about 180k on it. I replace the lifters, oil pump, relief valve springs, and every single seal - even checked the pickup tube for leaks, etc. All parts and seals came from the dealer - lifters were rebuilt by Mizpah. The oil pressure is fantastic (57 is the high spec and that's because the bypass valve in the pump is set to open at 57). The ticking is gone except it will tick for about 5 seconds sometimes on cold starts. Sometimes nothing. I beleive worn lifter bucks are the ultimate reason and that's not easy to solve. Also - oil pressure readings taken directly from the pump are pretty much meaningless as that is not the pressure the lifters see. You can have great pressure at the pump but little to no pressure at the lifters. And pressure isn't the whole story - volume comes into play as well. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 You don't know a thing till you check the pressure with a shop gauge. The dash gauge is worse than useless. They are very inaccurate...GD The senders are also easily damaged. I had one sender that made the dash gauge read below zero! IIRC, Rockauto recently listed a new oil pump for under $90... but you had to search using the part number. As GD pointed out, this may or may not help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Could I Ask about which SAE engine Oil did you Pour on that Engine? ... the Oil Filter is New? Different Oil Viscosities make the Pressure to Vary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 ok, some answers. GD still have yet to get everything miked out. im going to have someone more professional then me do it so it definitely gets measured correctly. how do you tell about the bucks? i was not using the dash gauge, it doesnt have one, just a dummy light. i had to buy a universal oil pressure gauge kit. Loyale im running 10w-30 Federated brand at the moment with a Wix brand filter. probably 50 miles on both filter and oil since rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 One thing which can effect oil pressure at the lifters is the relief spring in the cam carrier. If they're weak or stuck open they could dramatically reduce the amount and pressure of oil reaching the lifters. When I replaced mine, the old ones were about 1 or 2 mm shorter than the new ones. I could even feel the difference in spring rate. Also, my 10w30 is down around 10psi at warm idle after a recent complete reseal. It moves up around 25 at 2500rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 omfg kanurys. if there was some way i could pay you i would. thank you thank you thank you for mentioning those check valves in the cam carriers. if you hadnt i would have never figured it out. those check valves werent even installed. when i took everything apart for the overhaul i took out the spring, bolt, and that little oil rail, but those check valves never fell out and i didnt even know about them. when i brought my cam carriers home after hot tanking them, i found those check valves in the bottoms of my part totes but didnt know what they were. i knew exactly what they were when you mentioned them. holy ************ thank you. the ticking from hell is gone, and oil pressure is up, WAY up. thank you. oh, and my oil pressures are 25 psi at idle and a little bit above 50 at 2500. thank you. oh, still running 10w-30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 No prob, newb. Just help someone else out since you're gaining experience too. Isn't it amazing how big an effect those little parts have on the whole engine? BTW, if your oil pressure is that high when the engine is warm, you may consider running slightly lighter oil just for longevity of the seals. eh.... well, your numbers aren't that bad. It looks pretty healthy. When I start my car at 0 degrees F, the oil pressure is up around 60 and then slowly drops to rev-able levels. Dang, I need a block heater... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 need a little tighter of oil filter but I don't know if you have been leak of oil from lose oil filter, if still then need new oil pump, periods. Subaru GL ROCK! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soobie_newbie67 Posted February 6, 2011 Author Share Posted February 6, 2011 No prob, newb. Just help someone else out since you're gaining experience too. Isn't it amazing how big an effect those little parts have on the whole engine? BTW, if your oil pressure is that high when the engine is warm, you may consider running slightly lighter oil just for longevity of the seals. eh.... well, your numbers aren't that bad. It looks pretty healthy. When I start my car at 0 degrees F, the oil pressure is up around 60 and then slowly drops to rev-able levels. Dang, I need a block heater... Actually, believe it or not, book spec (fully warmed up) is 57 psi at 2500 rpm. but all of our motors are old and worn so of course its gonna be less. but get this. the subaru i sold, my 1987 Subaru GL station wagon, carburated engine, had just hit 200,000 miles on it. i took it to my automotive tech class and hooked a oil pressure gauge up to it. fully warmed up i was getting 57 psi at 2500 rpm. THATS BOOK SPEC! i was shocked for this motor had never been taken apart. must of had damn good care through its life. im just happy that this car, which is a 1988 Subaru GL-10 turbo, is working right, and im putting on my insurance on monday and im gonna start driving it immediately Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanurys Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 That's good info! I know my engine's running smooth, but I also know that the after-market cheapo oil gauge only reads semi accurate at higher pressures. At idle it reads 0 and the dash gauge reads just above 0. Then at 2500 it reads 25ish and the dash gauge reads around 10psi. (all fully warm, of course) Is the after market gauge inaccurate because air has gotten into the line between the oil pump and the gauge? Maybe I'll try bleeding it again at the gauge side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba_GL_87 Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Actually, believe it or not, book spec (fully warmed up) is 57 psi at 2500 rpm. but all of our motors are old and worn so of course its gonna be less. but get this. the subaru i sold, my 1987 Subaru GL station wagon, carburated engine, had just hit 200,000 miles on it. i took it to my automotive tech class and hooked a oil pressure gauge up to it. fully warmed up i was getting 57 psi at 2500 rpm. THATS BOOK SPEC! i was shocked for this motor had never been taken apart. must of had damn good care through its life. im just happy that this car, which is a 1988 Subaru GL-10 turbo, is working right, and im putting on my insurance on monday and im gonna start driving it immediately rock of roll! make me new learn! thats dawg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny88GL Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 lol that low oil pressure at idle had me a little worried, but i see ti's normal, it's even in the owners manual . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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