fupkid1 Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I was wondering if my 88 dl wagon would be fine just lifted with sjr front and rear stut lift. what problums would i run into? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty2Austin Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Do you mean, running just the suspension lift, without the cross member lift blocks? If that's what you meant, then you would not even be able to install the lift blocks without breaking the axles just to make them even fit- the reason, is that when you put lift blocks in the struts, you are essentially "lowering" the wheels away from the body, and if you install all of the appropriate blocks, then your axles stay about the same angle.... When you don't install the cross member blocks (x-member+trans member, etc) you get too steep of an angle on the axles, and you most likely won't even be able to install them due to the fact that you would be past the limitations on how far the axles can bend (at the joints, of course) And, even if you could barely get those blocks in there and get the axles hooked up, they would be running such a steep angle, that they would break the moment you tried to drive anywhere.... best thing to do, would be just get the whole kit, or 2" max suspension blocks (2" seems to be an ok amount without the x-member blocks, from what I have seen) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fupkid1 Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 If im going to do it im gunna do it big lol. The full 6" lift kit from sjr is $800 that price seems a little high. Is this my only option or is there other people making a 6" kit for less? how hard is it to install the full kit? Any special tools required? Im also not sure how i would extend the steering linkage brake lines ect. This car is also my daily driver and i cant have alot of down time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyBrad Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 This guy makes a 4" kit with the steering extension for $450 http://subarugllifted.webs.com/liftkits.htm Oh, and nice job completely ignoring Ratty2Austin post :-\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fupkid1 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 I didnt mean to come off rude. I understand what ratty2austin told me. They might go on and if they did i wouldint have any down travel. Im sure i would end up with a bunch of broken axles. Im going to see what truck tires will fit on it stock. Im not scared of hacking up the fenders. Im just not sure how the state of california will like it. I will be moving out there the end of the month. Might try and keep it registered in NM because we dont have emisions here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 I was wondering if my 88 dl wagon would be fine just lifted with sjr front and rear stut lift. what problums would i run into? my 4" kit comes with all the blocks , everything is dropped axles will only be 1" stressed over stock, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 I didnt mean to come off rude. I understand what ratty2austin told me. They might go on and if they did i wouldint have any down travel. Im sure i would end up with a bunch of broken axles. Im going to see what truck tires will fit on it stock. Im not scared of hacking up the fenders. Im just not sure how the state of california will like it. I will be moving out there the end of the month. Might try and keep it registered in NM because we dont have emisions here. Last time I checked, suspension mods don't effect emissions.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fupkid1 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 Ill have to fix my egr solinoid to turn off the cel. The state might not like the tires sticking out of the side of the car with no flares. Never had to deal with emisions so i dont know what to expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 No states like it when the tires stick out further than the fenders, some states just care less. Ironically Washington they are sticklers on cars, but on trucks they seem to care less. Listen to Ratty, he speaks the truth, lift the whole car, the money you spend on the super duper lift from SJR will save you mucho time and effort later when things just work. I've changed enough axles on enough rigs that I'd rather not do it if I don't have to, especially if its because of something easily fixed like axle angle. Ratty has been running a SJR lift on his last rig for a year, and I'm about to pick up one myself, I've spoken with Scott and seen his process, his lifts are the bee's knees. There are others who make lifts to be sure, and many are members of this site as well, but I'd worry about getting a lift kit for an old Subaru from someone who isn't even on the forum, just my .02 Do a search on lifts on this site, you'll see many different options, SJR, Mike Appel, Bill Omlin, HTi Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lesstutrey Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 SJR, HighGuys, Michael Appel all make kits and are members on this board. Their kits for over 4" all include drop blocks. Some of them drop so it's only 1" over stock, some of the others have 2" You have 15" wheels, there are a ton of tires available. If it's a daily driver you'll want AT tires, not swampers or mud tires, because AT's make WAY less noise for your daily driving, and if you're only gonna spend a little time on the trails an AT seems like the best bet. BFG AT KO's and General Grabber AT2 seem to be the most popular rubber people run for ATs. Generals cost way less, a set of 5 costs less (a full size spare is a VERY good idea) than 4 BFGs, but the generals only have 2 ply walls, and the BFGs have 3 ply walls so hypothetically they should last longer. When i do tires, i'm going for AT2s, simply because of the cost aspect, and they are well reviewed. That will be soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 and 45th of all, it might teach you to be complacent and not learn how to read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deckerp Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 (edited) I just put my 4" sjr lift in yesterday. (Thanks Scott!) I ran into one thing that I hadn't heard about. The rear transmission crossmember was holding me up too high to get the block under the leading rod bracket so i removed that, but when I got all the blocks in and everything else bolted up, the transmission/ center drive axle were too low to put the rear crossmember back on. Is this abnormal? The cross member does not actually attach to the transmission. Is it's purpose to stiffen the car? Edited February 10, 2011 by deckerp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deckerp Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Also, i have an odd noise now. it's a sort of grinding/vibration noise coming from the transmission area (I think) but it's only audible over 45 mph and only when you take your foot off the accelerator. If the gas is on no noise. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deckerp Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 My only thought was that perhaps something in the drivetrain is spinning outward and rubbing on something. This would fit my observations since when the gas is applied the force would keep the drivetrain centered, and at low speeds the centrical force would not be enough to spin the part out far enough to rub. However I cannot find any evidence of rubbing under the car, e.g. clean or warn marks. Further nothing feels excessively loose. Might this be related to my removal of the rear crossmember? My only other thought is that perhaps it's something within the transmission? I'm seriously stumped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deckerp Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Well... to conclude my highjacked thread, I figured it out. The angle on the middle u-joint of the drive axle had become too sharp (lowering transmission, lowering diff, while not lowering mid section). I spaced down that mid joint bracket and the noise stopped. Perhaps this is a problem I encountered only because my u-joint was already getting beat and the extra angle just exacerbated a pre-existing weakness. It might be a good idea though to space this bit down along with everything else for every 4" lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85wagon Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 hey, im in the middle of instaling my 4inch sjr lift, i was wondering how far u spaced the middle of the drive shaft down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 hey, im in the middle of instaling my 4inch sjr lift, i was wondering how far u spaced the middle of the drive shaft down? take the stock bearing carrior mount unbolt it rotate it 180 and bolt back up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85wagon Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 hey,thats awsome ill do that, another question i had is, the 4wd lever doesnt allow me to get in 2wd, i figured i would just cut it and weld in an extension ,any suggestions of how much of an extension i would need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 hey,thats awsome ill do that, another question i had is, the 4wd lever doesnt allow me to get in 2wd, i figured i would just cut it and weld in an extension ,any suggestions of how much of an extension i would need? No need, but I'd be surprised if it even shifted into all the gears as is. The whole linkage assembly needs it's own lift kit. I eliminated the rubber spacer that you'll see under there, and added a 2" block. The result is about an inch of lift.........4" suspension lift, minus 3" body= 1". It can be done in many different ways, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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