Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Recommended Posts

OK i bought a 99 OBW 150,xxx miles last week to fix and sell. It had just had the headgaskets replaced by a non subaru type repair shop. It appears that they had the good sense to use subaru gaskets ( i can see the gaskets and the marks are subaru)

The engine runs great but the transmission was in limp mode.

There was no CEL or AT oil temp light with the ignition in the ON position

I could also hear the tell tale signs of teh green test connectors (lower right side of steering column) being plugged in ( fans and relays cycling on and off)

Towed it to my shop and began diagnosing...this is what i found.

1.Lights have been removed from dash to mask the flashing AT light and CEL and FWD light. Replaced lights. Good trick guys

2.unplugged the green connector and scanned the CEL got a p0748 and a mfg specific code ( i have it written down some where)

3. 748 code( out of range shift solenoid) + flashing light led me to believe there is NO communication between the TCU and the Solenoid.

4. inspected pan and saw a dent :(/:)

5. removed pan and found broken solenoid ( purple with white wire)

6. used a solenoid/ pan from a 2001 OB transmission ( bad front diff)

7. cleaned up pan etc, resealed and refilled with fresh trans fluid.

8. removed FWD fuse

9. started it up and the A/T oil temp light still flashing constant

10 disconnected battery waited 10 min and reconnected

11. Light still flashing and CEL light back on with 748 code

I haven't driven the car yet ( replacing rotors)

Questions:

should i drive and see if the solenoid and tcu" become friends"=light stops flashing

Are 99 and 2001 solenoids the same?

I haven't done the handshake to see what the TCU says...

What next?

Thanks, Craig

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK drove the car (without fwd fuse) light flashed the whole time. Got engine up to temp and pulled it back into shop.

Turned key off and started it no light :)

Went to put it in drive and light started flashing. :(

put FWD fuse back in> same result...flashing light.

took FWD fuse back out and drove it.

hard to tell if torque bind is present with the ice storm we just had. Pretty sure there isn't torque bind from the couple turns I was able to take on dry pavement. So I don't know why the FWD fuse was in....probably a desperate measure.

So I'm leaning toward part incompatibility... might try to fix the original solenoid. The part that was broken was the part where the wire plugged in. The wire then goes around the side and over to a loop end that is connected to the valve body via a 10mm nut. I think I can splice into it/make a new connector.

Any thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All the tranny solenoids in the pan are interchangeable between a bunch of years from my experience. If you changed out the solenoid and its still not happy. I would start checking over the harness, make sure it didn't get crushed or broken anywhere. Pull the tranny connectors too at the top of the bell and make sure the connections are clean. Just trying to give ideas :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

pre 99 (spin on filter) transmissions internals are very different than the 99 up transmissions. I called the junkyards and their computers said that the 99 transmission was 99 only then 2000-01 are the same and 02-03 are the same.

Anyone here know the difference... by looking at them they look identical.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the 4eat phase 2 trans was introduced in 99. the biggest change at that time was they added more sensors to the trans. they look just like the speed sensor on the rear transfer housing. (also like a cam or crank sensor)

 

the addition of these sensors means there are more wires in the harness and more pins in the connector.

 

the trans code id numbers changed as well. phase 1 auto AWD trans start with TZ102Z... phase 2 in 99 started with TZ1A2Z... i think and later TZ1A4Z... i think.

 

99 mat have been a transition year and it is POSSIBLE that it would not work in a later car but i doubt it. i don't really think any of these are a one year trans. you can not rely on the interchange software at the salvage yards to be accurate in this regard. if they say it will fit , it will. but just because they say it will NOT fit does not mean it will not.

 

case in point, if you search for a 96 outback auto trans, they will not return any 97 or 98s in the results. and they will work just fine. or when looking for a 97LSi auto trans it will not offer a 97GT as a solution. and the only difference is the speedo gears due to different size tires, same goes for outback.

 

if the trans code number changes, the software thinks the trans changed. and it may have, but it may still work.

 

so the rule of thumb is this, if the trans is from your year group, 95 - 98/99 (depending on the model) or 00 - 04 (i don't really know the particulars) and if the final drive ratio matches, and if the wiring connector matches, it will work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok heres an update... took the pan off an inspected again. After getting a diagram of the solenoids I think the one that was broken was the 2-4 brake duty solenoid ( not sure what it does dont have description for it)

Since i was getting the p0748 code i then checked the line pressure solenoid and the housing of that solenoid seems to be damaged too...the male part on the solenoid is loose. Going to swap it out n the a.m. Anyone have a favorite transmission pan sealer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so i opened the trans up and found a second bad solenoid. The one that was throwing the CEL code. line pressure solenoid

An interesting note: all the solenoids are grounded in their resting state.

So you can check between the harness connector (by the bell housing) and probe the pins with a meter that will beep when the two leads are touched ( continuity) and have one side touch the pins and the other touch ground and they will all beep ( the ones that go to the solenoids) this is a quick test to see if they are broken...no beep=broken wire or crushed,broken solenoid . You can do this with out taking off the pan.... I thought it was a good discovery. I will reinstall pan and hopefully drive into the sunset.

Edited by logic23
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the verdict is out on whether the 2001 solenoids work. Will be test driving tomorrow.

I had to replace 2 solenoids: first the 2-4 shift solenoid( its wire was broken clean off) and then the line pressure solenoid (looked good but upon inspection/testing it was bad)

replaced both with the 2001 parts.

they are super easy to get out.

they are held in with two bolts( 10mm) and have 2 o-rings. easier than fuel injectors.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually both solenoids that were bad were from the same dent...opposite sides of the pan. also had a cracked rear trans...mount replaced it

I drove it around yesterday seems to shift great and no torque bind.

This car has been driven in a rural setting (no salt related rot) lots of cinders etc on the underbody.

When I get rural cars the struts,tie rods and ball joints are usually hit but these have already been replaced along with both front axles.

I threw on new rotors, pads and upgraded the interior to heated leather and wood grain trim. New owner are coming tomorrow to pick her up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...