1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Thinking about doing it this weekend I have no clue when or if it was ever done and about to roll to 236k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 shoot it with some PB Blaster when its cold and let it sit overnight. I use a tubing wrench to get them out, it works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Never heard of a tubing wrench before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Never heard of a tubing wrench before Tubing wrenches are great. Especially for brake lines. I even use one for that EGR tube that goes from the block to the drivers side head in the back when doing HG's. More contact points than and open end, but still with an opening to get around brake line, or other "tube". Sears puts them on sale a few times per year. SOmetimes the better brands are thinner and sometimes that's nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 So i'm looking around here I'm not sure a oxygen sensor would last 236K but nevertheless I have to think that way.. I did not know it was possible to snap them off? I need to get some more penetrating oil but I wonder how much work it will involve. Also it may not be stock because the wire to the sensor seems to be a bit too long.. it was long enough to rub on the inner cv axle and I caught it just as it was wearing away the outer shield cover. For the tube wrench I was thinking a pipe wrench but that does not seem to be it at least looking on google image search. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Someone probably didn't put the little holder back on the lower eng/trans bolt on the pass side to hold that O2 sensor wire and it rubbed. I doublt they go over 200k. There are probably 2 (forget ehat year you're working one). Search for discussions here. One is thought to be needed to be OEM and the other generic seems o.k. I always buy OEM because I don't need a collection of aftermarkets that didn't work. Search for "tubing wrench" - like I said probably even on Sears site. I don't have a 7/8 tubing wrench. On a Subaru the connector is small enough that I use a 7/8 box end. Easy to hit with a hammer too. But keep soaking that puppy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Someone probably didn't put the little holder back on the lower eng/trans bolt on the pass side to hold that O2 sensor wire and it rubbed. I doublt they go over 200k. There are probably 2 (forget ehat year you're working one). Search for discussions here. One is thought to be needed to be OEM and the other generic seems o.k. I always buy OEM because I don't need a collection of aftermarkets that didn't work. Search for "tubing wrench" - like I said probably even on Sears site. I don't have a 7/8 tubing wrench. On a Subaru the connector is small enough that I use a 7/8 box end. Easy to hit with a hammer too. But keep soaking that puppy. I never knew they had a older for it.. Also someone should add some feature here to let other members know what year you have typing it over and over is a pain (not directed at you) I will try the sears site just that the nearest one is like 40 min away. The sensor I will be getting is a Denso. Oh and my car has 2 '95 legacy wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Also someone should add some feature here to let other members know what year you have typing it over and over is a pain (not directed at you)they've tried a few different things, it's a tough thing to get right really, they're in a tough position. many folks have more than one too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 they've tried a few different things, it's a tough thing to get right really, they're in a tough position. many folks have more than one too. Yea - that's when I post looking for help I always state year, engine, tranny. Will make it easier to find in the future for folks who use the search feature that may have similar problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Never heard of a tubing wrench before A flare nut wrench. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944195000P They're a little hard to find in oxygen sensor size though. Just unplug the connector and slip a box end wrench over it. If it won't fit you can cut the connector off. Heat helps 100% when removing O2 sensors. Get the pipes warm by running the engine for 15 minutes or so before taking it out. Just wear gloves and long sleeves to keep from burning yourself by accidentally putting your arm/hand in the wrong place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) Also someone should add some feature here to let other members know what year you have typing it over and over is a pain (not directed at you) if you can create a signature , i can, i assume others can, you can list your car details in that. along with any other info you want us to know. Edited February 10, 2011 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 if you can create a signature , i can assume others can, you can list your car details in that. along with any other info you want us to know. never thought of that most sites I go to hate that because they say it messes up the search or something like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 As Fairtax4me typed, it is more commonly (around this side of the country, at least) referred to as a flare wrench or a flare nut wrench. They are the type used on the flare nuts used on brake lines and such. If you go this route GET A GOOD ONE... cheap ones can bend apart and be worse than useless. Personally, I would just get an oxygen sensor socket from anyplace that carries auto parts/tools. These sockets have a slot in their sides that the wire can hang out. IIRC, most removal instructions that I have seen involve turning the sensor 1/4 turn, resoaking in penetrant and letting them sit for a few hours (24 comes to mind, but I imagine that is just if you are patient), then re-tightening it, and then removing it. The usual penalty for impatience, lack of penetrant oil, and/or bad karma is that the sensor leaves all of its threads in the O2 bung. (The case of the sensor is just sheet metal, and the threads peel off of it easily.) Speaking of which, another nice thing to have around is a sparkplug thread chaser, as the larger sparkplugs (typically???) have the same threads as the O2 sensor. (I think it is 18mm, and I have a dual-ended 14mm/18mm chaser.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 I was going to go te oxygen sensor socket way but I know they charge big amounts for small tools like that. but still it would still need to hit it with some PB blaster, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) O2 sensor socket should be around US$10-15. The thread chaser should be similarly priced. I would imagine that the appropriate-sized flare wrench would be much more (unless, perhaps, you had time to shop around). example of slotted socket example of flare wrench-style socket Example of thread chaser (looks like mine but picture is on wrong item...) Edited February 10, 2011 by NorthWet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 O2 sensor socket should be around US$10-15. The thread chaser should be similarly priced. I would imagine that the appropriate-sized flare wrench would be much more (unless, perhaps, you had time to shop around). example of slotted socket example of flare wrench-style socket Example of thread chaser (looks like mine but picture is on wrong item...) can't direct link but I know what all of them look like.. Is the threads really going to get that messed up removing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 can't direct link but I know what all of them look like.. Is the threads really going to get that messed up removing it? My first one I did when I was totally clueless (not much has changed, really ), I did not use penetrant and just tried to muscle it out. It turned nicely from initial break-loose to about the 1/2 turn point and then stuck. I just used more force, and all of the threads tore off of the sensor, leaving an almost smooth surface on the sensor... Took me a week to figure out that a sparkplug chaser would work to remove the old threads. Yes, it can get really ugly. The last one I did, on my wife's Mazda, came out nice and easily with no drama at all (other than no room for a rachet/breakerbar). Prepare for the worst, and hope for the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 I get a stupid rattle at idle sometime between the 1st and 2nd cat I have no heat shields but I've have to check with the car running I need a bolt extractor for where the center pipe mounts on that metal piece.. when i removed the old stuff 2 years ago it just snapped and I had no time to remove the broken bolt. I know for sure I can't work on it this weekend so it will have to be around next. Anyone use the denso sensor before should I put some anti seize on it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 ...Anyone use the denso sensor before should I put some anti seize on it? Lots of people swear that you should always use a Subaru-branded sensor. Me, I don't have any practical experience with back-to-back comparisons of OEM vs. "aftermarket". I have not as yet bought a sensor at my stealership. That being said, you will probably find that most aftermarket sensors, regardless of what the box says, has ND (Nippon Denso) stamped on them. I first noticed this with a Bosch-boxed sensor. All of the aftermarket sensors that I have bought have had anti-seize already applied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 hey since we are talking exhaust stuff the headers what size bolt fits? I notice the studs tend to back out and at least one fell out on the passenger side and the dealer charges crazy amounts for the nut and the stud. I noticed the last owner must of used just a plain hex bolt but not sure of the size and length but I find it works good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Somebody is going to say it, so I guess it is me... SEARCH is your friend: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118774 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119071 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105831 In case you can't get at these links, some good info from MilesFox: a lot of times the nuts will take the studs out with them. if that is the case, get new studs. the are m10x1.25 threads. go to the parts store and look for the "HELP" brand and you should be able to find a set of 2 studs with nuts labelled 'import stud kit' if they dont have that, you can use the 'gm and toyota exhaust manifold' kit which wll come with 3 studs and 2 bolts. just be careful about how much torque you apply when going back together, because you dont want to ruin the threads in the aluminum head i suggest doing one side at a time. if both studs come out, you can slip in the new asket without unbolting the other side In one of the other, older threads, GD suggests going to 7/16-20 if you don't want to helicoil damaged threads back to the 10x1.25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 ugh so it's not advised to do this? I tried to put the stud in without dropping the Y pipe and that was not going to happen.. I think the stud and nut was like $25 or $30 something. Nothing else has come out but I expect a stud to back out while undoing the header Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StructEngineer Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 (edited) PB blaster never worked for me on O2 sensors no matter how long I soaked them. Especially if you're removing one in the winter, heat is the only way that worked. I could pound on it for five minutes with the impact and it wouldn't come off until a little heat was applied. My Bosch sensor hasnt given me problems. A NTK sensor died within a year. Edited February 11, 2011 by StructEngineer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 ugh so it's not advised to do this? I tried to put the stud in without dropping the Y pipe and that was not going to happen.. I think the stud and nut was like $25 or $30 something. Nothing else has come out but I expect a stud to back out while undoing the header My studs regularly unscrew. (Lots of subies in my herd, none newer than 92.) Not a big deal in and of itself. I haven't had one pull its threads out...yet. (Three little letters, so much pain.) I don't think that i have paid more than a couple of bucks for a exhaust stud, even from the dealer. i have noticed that the dealer prices seem to be .... ummmm... "variable". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 My studs regularly unscrew. (Lots of subies in my herd, none newer than 92.) Not a big deal in and of itself. I haven't had one pull its threads out...yet. (Three little letters, so much pain.) I don't think that i have paid more than a couple of bucks for a exhaust stud, even from the dealer. i have noticed that the dealer prices seem to be .... ummmm... "variable". I don't remember the part number off hand for it but I might order it local if its not too much or subaruparts.com since I'm not in a rush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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