xeirxes Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I've got a 1987 Subaru GL hatchback that is having problems. The engine (reportedly) is actually two years younger than the chassis, but I'm not sure how extensive this is (whether they replaced any other parts in the front end is not known to me). It has an automatic transmission and has a carburetor. The car seems to have a lot of problems but it's worth holding onto right now for what I need. Recently, however, there have been some problems that make it very unreliable and I'm trying to at least get it back into a state where it is safe to drive 5 minutes to work and back. I didn't start having these problems with it until it got cold and snowed. That may have something to do with it. It seems like when the car is between 0-2k rpms, it is always on the verge of dying--even when it's just idling. My girlfriend couldn't get the car to move when she put it in drive because it died immediately. I found I could circumvent this by revving the engine to about 2.5k before putting it in gear. There is one other problem with the car that might be worth mentioning in case it is related. One day a part fell out from the bottom and I have no idea where it belongs. It's one of those flexible hoses, the kind you would use for air, not made of rubber but metal. Any ideas, thoughts, suggestions are very much appreciated. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 If its carbureted... Its most likely that (the dying). The hitatchi carbs (although Ill get some argument here) are completely worthless. Go with a Weber if its financially stable for you to do so... Id go with the 32/36 DGEV since its an electric choke, you dont have to mess with the mixture. Then, when you start it (at least with my manual transmission) pump the gas a few times BEFORE you turn it over, then when it starts, it should rev up to over 1400-1600 rpms by itself (dont push the gas or anything) and slowly climb as you leave it. Give it like 5 minutes of this, then push the gas and the RPMs will descend. This is how I warm up my carburetor in the morning. My knowledge is from my 1986 GL Sedan and my (past) 1984 DL Sedan, both carbureted. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xeirxes Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Thanks for the advice! I will check it out and see if I can get a Weber. If it's not within my price range, what would you suggest as an alternative to a Weber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 I have never heard of using a non-weber carb. Best person I can think of is to ask Rick (GeneralDisorder) but Im pretty sure he will point you in the direction of a Weber, but he knows others that will work as well... Webers can be found cheap on craigslist... I got mine for $100. Brand new they are like 260. There might be one being sold on this forum. Youll have to get an adapter for one... Unless someone took it off a Subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 Edit: The guy sold his on here, but check your local craigslist for Weber 32/36 DGEV. Play with the keywords a little bit... Like look in Auto Parts under: DGEV 32/36 Weber (and just read the ads carefully as this is pretty broad) Etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron G "tinker" Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 check to make sure you arent leaking (vacuum leak) it will cause it not to idle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 I would be happy to take a look at it if you are in Colorado. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dj7291993 Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 that hose, is it a 90* elbow, about 2-3" shortside, around 8" longside? If so, check the drivers side of your air cleaner. I don't think it's important, but that's where it goes. As far as dying, you have to let it warm up, and that doesn't mean start it, then grab your coffee and go. If it runs rough (like mine), wait till it smooths out. Just a downside to the carb. My exp is my 87 gl 3-door coupe, carbed ea82 with 3-speed auto 4wd (soon to be d/r 5-speed manual). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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