88 GL eating drivers side timing belts

[Dj7291993]

On Thursday, my dad's drivers side timing belt went out. It had been three years since it had been changed, so we didn't think anything of it. When we pulled it out on Saturday, it had stripped all of the teeth of of the belt. There was also a very slight amount of oil in the cover. We were going to change the front seal, but the parts store didn't have it in stock, so we figured we would do it next weekend. Put the new one on, and after figuring out that haynes skipped the step where you rotate the drivers cam gear 180*, we got it running. It did fine that night going to the store, going to work the next day, and getting to school on Monday.

 

However, when I went to back out, the car started fine, but as I started to roll, the engine did. I tried to start it back up, and the starter did what it does when the belt goes out. Pulled off the cover, and sure enough, it was stripping it again.

 

This time though, there were still some teeth on it. The teeth that remained looked like someone had taken a knife, and cut the teeth half way through, perpendicular to the teeth. I can pull the teeth back, which I know ain't right.

 

So, what would cause the belt to get "cut"? Could it be a sharp spot on one of the gears, or one of my family's friends said it could be the cam sticking in the head? If needed, I might be able to take a picture tomorrow. Also, on the bottom of the belt (part with teeth sticking up), the cuts are from the center of the engine.

 

Car info: 88 GL, EA82 mpfi, 5-speed fwd, sedan.

[NorthWet]

I am having trouble envisioning the damage. Pics or similar would help me. (Hopefully, someone who is sharper tonight might respond.)

 

I have had a new t-belt die within a 1000mi or so. No apparent cause, probably a flaw. It shredded rather than shed teeth.

 

Probably not a sticking cam... not a commonly reported problem. More common are seized idlers or tensioners; if either make any noise when spun they proabably need attetnion. It might be the oil pump seizing, but not any reports of those that I can remember. If the tensioners were no tensioned and/or retensioned properly, you could get some damage that way (but it might also sound like an airplane landing in your engine compartment).

[Dj7291993]

I don't even think it was 100 miles. Also, all of the teeth that were stripped, as far as I could see in the parking lot, were around the cam gear. Also, no unusual noises. I'll get those pics tomorrow afternoon. I'd do it tonight, but it is pitch black, and 36*. Also, forgot in the op, car has around 230k.

[Gloyale]

The lower idler pulley is probably shot and seizing.

 

Either that, or you've got something wedged in behind the oil pump pulley, the belt runs pretty close the block.

 

Very slim chance on the cam seizing. Rule out the other stuff first.

[MilesFox]

i bet on cheap belts, or a bent flange on the oil pump pulley, or to eliminate any trouble first, the tensioner is on its way out. Tensioners can and do seize. for the sae of simlicity, change them out, and more than likely eliminate the problem.

 

your oil leaks are more likely the cam seal. you can remove the cam pulle bolts and re torque them with the belts on. not too tight, or they may break

[kayakertom]

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the rear flange on the oil pump pulley - look for scrape wear on the pump itself behind the pulley.

[hooziewhatsit]

Here ya go:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-94-1-8-SUBARU-TURBO-NON-TURBO-TIMING-BELT-KIT-EA82-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1988Q7cMakeQ3aSubaruQQhashZitem255fd731a0QQitemZ160521728416QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2002wt_939

 

Since I found that kit, I replace all the idlers when I do the belts. Then I throw the old ones in the back so I have a spare to at least get home.