92_rugby_subie Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 I have a friend that is on this board, but not a lot. He has a 1995 Subaru Impreza L Sedan. It has the EJ18 1.8L Has <150k miles AWD 5 Speed Etc etc etc. Bad thing so far: Tranny seems to grind shifting into 2nd whether going up or down gears... Could be gear oil, or new tranny? The other thing, is where do we start? Will obviously do full tune up, like radiator flush, oil change, spark plugs, spark plug wires etc. But should we put a knock sensor on there? Will ask Rick if he will give it a once over and see how it goes, but before going there, we want to do the tuneup and stuff. Mods: Car has a block heater (originally a Canadian car) 6K HIDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted February 25, 2011 Author Share Posted February 25, 2011 Bump.. any suggestions? or do I have it covered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 (edited) fluids plugs and wires, as well as filters. if it leaks oil, most do, seals would be good. and timing belt if it is due, every 60k. it is a non-interference engine so no harm if the belt fails. i'm not a manual trans guy, but some folks have changed the oil with some special red? stuff. i don't know the stuff but some one will. it may help, can't hurt. but you may find you can drive carefully and reduce the ''grind''. Edited February 25, 2011 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruAlliance Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 I am not real technical on the innerworkings of a trans, but it sounds like you have a jacked up syncro in there. I had an 88 mazda 5spd, and my bro JAMMED it into reverse one day while it was running and no clutch pushed in and ever since that day it felt kinda chunky or grind a bit goin into reverse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brycarp Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 timing belt if it is due, every 60k. it is a non-interference engine so no harm if the belt fails. Really 60K timing belt interval on a 95 EJ18? No problem on mine at this point even if 60K is right, cuz mine has 23k on its T.B., but I thought that era EJ's were 100k T.B. interval. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 Thats what I thought too... I know my EA82 is 60k.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 EJ belts are 60k till around '97 when California models went to 105k. But the rest of the country stayed 60k till I think around '99 or so when they all went to 105k. If you have a phase-I engine (90 to 99 except 99 Impreza/Forester) then chances are it's a 60k interval belt. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 I thought the EJ22 and EJ25 were 105k belts, but oh well lol, we will have to get that done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 EJ belts are 60k till around '97 when California models went to 105k. But the rest of the country stayed 60k till I think around '99 or so when they all went to 105k. If you have a phase-I engine (90 to 99 except 99 Impreza/Forester) then chances are it's a 60k interval belt. GD Aren't the new belts and timing components rated for 105 though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brycarp Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Well, the good thing about it is... The interval doesn't matter so much because doing a timing belt/water pump on a SOHC Subaru boxer (at least that era) is SIGNIFICANTLY less brain damage than doing one on my "Brand H" Accords from the same era. Probably about 1/3 or 2/5 as much work. The one thing that does peeve me about getting into the T.B. chamber on a Subaru boxer is the stupid "cast into the plastic" captive nuts in the passenger-side plastic back cover that always seem to be seized up so they rotate and shatter the plastic when I try to loosen the bolts. (Yes, I tried penetrating oil.) Fortunately that should be a one-time problem per car, since I use anti-seize on the bolts when I tighten them into the new captive nuts on the new back cover I install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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