Weber & Hitachi Idle Woes.......

[pliptheshevanel]

The car is a 1987 GL Wagon, EA82, 4X4 w/ manual transmission, 48,000 miles.

 

I posted a few weeks ago about a sudden problem with the car idling. It was running great and one night I parked it for 2 hours. Came out to start it up and the problem began, wouldn't idle. Car would start up and do the normal 2000 RPM surge until I depressed the accelerator to set the choke, and then it would die. To keep it running, I would have to give it gas and brake/gas it when I stopped to keep it running. The car would run fine once I got it moving though with no problems at all.

 

I have spent hours and hours on this forum just searching and reading related posts on this issue. I have replaced fuel filter, PCV valve, plugs/wires/rotor button/cap. I've used almost a whole can of carb cleaner checking for vacuum leaks with no luck. So basically I figured it was the Hitachi carb, because it gets gas fine but won't idle and has a TERRIBLE miss in it under 2000 RPM. So based on what all i've read on here about the Hitachi problems and how the Weber is superior, I ordered a kit on Monday and installed it today.

 

We installed the new Weber and everything went great. Dented the power steering reservoir to allow clearance for the electric choke, plugged all vacuum lines, and routed the PCV valve to the Weber air breather with 2 T's, as per what most everyone on here does. Hooked up vacuum to the disty advance and the EGR valve.

 

What happened when we started it up? Same thing with the Hitachi. No idle. The car starts up fine and shoots straight to the 2000-2500 mark, then if you touch the accelerator it will die and not idle. We went by the manual on all the tuning procedures with no luck. If the RPM's drop under 2000, the car still has an awful miss and spudder to it. Checked for vacuum leaks again and found none!

 

We put a cork in the hose going to the ASV for now, could this be the problem? If the ASV were to be bad, would it still matter now since the Hitachi is gone? We tried advancing the timing by turning the distributor some with no luck. I assume the timing is good due to the car running fine up to 80 MPH that I've hit while having these problems.

 

I'm puzzled on this problem. Can't find any vacuum leaks and the Weber is working fine, just no idle. The car was given to me for free, so I don't have anything in it other than the Weber and the tune up stuff, but I'm not looking to put much more into it. If I can't get this figured out, a for sale sign is going on it and I'm moving on. If anyone has ANY ideas or have had this same problem, please hep me out on this one.

[naru]

Pretty much classic vacuum leak symptoms.

 

Seems unlikely both carbs would have the same problem.

 

Leaks can be tough to pinpoint w/carb cleaner.

(won`t spot a leaky EGR)

 

Don`t really think it is your problem,but, I would "check" the EGR by reaching underneath and opening the diaphragm by hand and allowing it to "slam" closed several times.

 

Check compression.

[pliptheshevanel]

The EGR valve is working correctly, I've put my finger on it while revving the engine and it moves like it should. It's not stuck fully open and when removed, the engine doesn't run any better.

 

It sounds like something on the left side of the engine bay is sucking serious air, but carb cleaner or starting fluid has found nothing! I don't know if it's just the sound from the belts or what, but I can't find a leak.

 

Could it possibly be ignition related? Low rpm idle problems, like it's not firing on all cylinders? I mean the car has less than 50,000 miles so I wouldn't think it would be a disty or anything like that. There wasn't any play in it. ughh

[pliptheshevanel]

Well this morning we fixed the problem. The vacuum we were hearing was coming out of the bottom of a black canister on the left side of the engine bay. It was routed to the front of the EGR valve and also to the manifold. Air was sucking in the bottom through holes that I suppose is a part of a reed valve system? I think it's the anti-afterburn valve from what I've read on here, correct me if I'm wrong. We removed it and plugged the vacuum lines coming from it, and BAM perfect idle. Some tuning on the Weber had it purring like a kitten and it runs great now.

 

However, fuse #11 (IG-COIL, FUEL, ECC(IG)) kept blowing when the car warmed up and the choke opened. I disconnected the wire connector going to the choke and all was well after that.

 

I don't know what is causing this though? The choke wire was connected onto the old blue wire going to the Hitachi carb, and the other 2 wires with the choke wire were left cut and insulated. I don't know why it keeps blowing, and if I can't figure it out I won't be able to choke it. Any ideas?

[naru]

That doesn`t mean the EGR is closing 100%.

 

Ignition trouble seems very unlikely.

[pliptheshevanel]

Found the fuse problem. Even though the electrical connection to the choke was insulated and covered well, somehow an arc was making contact with the power steering reservoir? Slid a piece of plastic in between the choke and the reservoir, and voila. No more blown fuses. The car is running great now, better than it did before this whole mess started. I'm loving the Weber!

[pliptheshevanel]

Ok so I have one last question about this Weber setup. If I drive the car for 30 minutes or so and shut it off, the engine will keep turning over 2 or 3 times but it doesn't backfire? Is this a fuel mixture issue that I need to address on the Weber? I never experienced it happen with the Hitachi.