tbrinson Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 I'm looking for info on how to replace the Ign. lock cyl. on 1995 Subaru Legacy Sedan. I'm pretty mechanical but have never worked on a Subaru this is my daughters car and I'm trying to save her some money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 I'm looking for info on how to replace the Ign. lock cyl. on 1995 Subaru Legacy Sedan. I'm pretty mechanical but have never worked on a Subaru this is my daughters car and I'm trying to save her some money. from an '07 post there are 3 parts that make up the ignition switch. swapping the 'key way' is very simple, if you have a key and can get it to turn. the mechanical locking part that the keyway slides into is more difficult to swap and not necessary. the actual ignition (electrical) switch is the third part of the system. i would suggest removing your existing key way, and taking it to a lock smith. he can re-key it, replace the worn pins to match your original door locks and make a matching key that will work your doors as well. to remove the 'key way' you remove 3 or 4 screws on the bottom of the pastic housing around the steering column and ignition. GENTLY remove the top and bottom halves and set them aside. (the tilt control lever is tricky) put the key in the ignition and turn it a little until it unlocks the steering. on one side of the ignition cylinder housing there is a pin about 3/16" wide which recesses into the ignition cylinder housing. if you press this in while pulling out on the key (while it is still turned some) the keyway will slide out of the ignition. pretty slick. EDIT: don't forget to check the ''battery kill switch'' on top of the steering wheel plastic surround after you reinstall the plastic housing. leaving it on will kill your battery. there is a pretty large plug thing on the bottom of the plastic housing, and if you knew what you were doing and had a long ice pick thing with a bend on the end, i think you could remove the key way without removing the plastic housing. but i have to see what i'm doing. let me know if you have any questions. what are you trying to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 I have a whole steering column with airbag and key. came from a 95 legacy wagon. make an offer that includes shipping. if you tackle this yourself, i suggest drop the steering column, remove the column covers, and try to slot the heads of the bolts with an angle grinder so you can unscrew them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrinson Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 from an '07 post let me know if you have any questions. what are you trying to do? I beleive the tumblers are all screwed up in the cyl. my daughter was able to get the key out, but I haven't messed with it. It sounds like if I can get the old lock cyl out the best thing to do would be take it to a lock smith and have him replace the worn tumblers or purchase a replacement lock cyl and install that then she would have (2) keys one for Ignition and one for door locks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrinson Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 from an '07 post let me know if you have any questions. what are you trying to do? One thing I forgot to ask was if the Air bag is an issue if I'm just replacing the lock cyl. and not the electrical part of the switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 the air bag should not be an issue since you are not messing with wiring. if you post a ''wanted ad'' in our marketplace you may find some one with a door ignition combo for sale. (installing the door lock cylinder is a pain.) get some teflon or silicone spray and shoot it in the lock. the teflon stuff is amazing. the instructions above won't help much if you can't turn the key. then you would have to remove the whole thing from the steering column. and as miles mentioned, the ''security'' bolts don't have any type of removal system designed into them. when they are threaded in and tightened, the heads snap off. so you will need to either cut slots in them to use a screw driver or i used a hammer and chisel /punch to slowly back them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 the easiest direct thing to do is just swithc up the steering column as a unit. ny of the airbag wiring has a yellow harness. as long as the battery is disengaged, and you dont cut any wires, you will have no issues with safety regarding the airbag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 swapping out the entire assembly is not really that big a deal if you have a dremel tool. Use a cut off wheel and make a slot in the bolts and then remove them with a screw driver. Then install the replacement one. Of course, the easiest is if you can get the key to turn, just replace the tumbler. I can probably get you one at my local Jy with a key and I am sure it will be much cheaper than the dealership. Let me know if you want to go that way. I can even pull the door locks if you want them all to match to one key. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Another thing. Our local locksmith wanted 75.00 to rekey the ignition tumbler to the other keys. That was just too much fo my blood and I just replaced the four tumblers from a JY car. Much cheaper and now the locks all match too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 (edited) Another thing. Our local locksmith wanted 75.00 to rekey the ignition tumbler to the other keys. That was just too much fo my blood and I just replaced the four tumblers from a JY car. Much cheaper and now the locks all match too. mike, were you able to, how did you, get both bolts back in the door lock / handle? i have so much trouble i usually leave one of them put. (i let the spring clip hold it in.) it is one of the most difficult bolts on the car. getting it out is bad enough, but re-installing ...... i've given up. Edited March 1, 2011 by johnceggleston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 mike, were you able to, how did you, get both bolts back in the door lock / handle? i have so much trouble i usually leave one of them put. (i let the spring clip hold it in.) it is one of the most difficult bolts on the car. getting it out is bad enough, but re-installing ...... i've given up. Once I get the lock into the door handle ( I only take the lock, not the entire handle out) I put a bit of grease in a socket and put the nut in it and then put it on the stud thu the access hole in the door. It is a pain, but I have been able to do it fairly successfully. I can't remember if you have to raise or lower the window to get good access to the stud though. My biggest hurdle is geting the lock up onto the stud with my big hands inside the door. Almost got stuck once. I usually sue a long needle nose plier to get the lock into place and then push it the rest of the way in thru the acdess hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbrinson Posted March 3, 2011 Author Share Posted March 3, 2011 the air bag should not be an issue since you are not messing with wiring. if you post a ''wanted ad'' in our marketplace you may find some one with a door ignition combo for sale. (installing the door lock cylinder is a pain.) get some teflon or silicone spray and shoot it in the lock. the teflon stuff is amazing. the instructions above won't help much if you can't turn the key. then you would have to remove the whole thing from the steering column. and as miles mentioned, the ''security'' bolts don't have any type of removal system designed into them. when they are threaded in and tightened, the heads snap off. so you will need to either cut slots in them to use a screw driver or i used a hammer and chisel /punch to slowly back them out. John; Just wanted to let you know the lock cyl. replacement was a piece of cake thanks for all the info. It took lnoger to get the plastic covers off than it did to replace the lock cyl. Thanks again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 John; Just wanted to let you know the lock cyl. replacement was a piece of cake thanks for all the info. It took lnoger to get the plastic covers off than it did to replace the lock cyl. Thanks again... i'm glad it worked out for you. the first time i did it i removed the whole mechanism and reinstalled with new security bolts. but while i had it off i learned the trick about the release pin. sure does make it easy. did you take it to a locksmith or did you just replace it.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tybalt Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Is there any way to definitively pinpoint the problem without taking the ignition to pieces? My key won't turn in the ignition (mercifully happened after I got home from the park & ride station) no matter how I turn or jiggle or manipulate the key and steering wheel. It's parked with the wheels straight forward on flat ground. I have a vague quote from a locksmith saying he could fix the tumbler for about $180, and from a mechanic saying it would cost about the same, if not more if it's the key cylinder. From your guy's experience, does this sound about right? The car has approximately 160,000 miles, and am considering selling it soon. So any costly repairs are going to be considered hard and long at this juncture. Finally, as a complete amateur when it comes to repairs - is this something that I could feasibly replace on my own? Thanks for the feedback, Thomas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 If you can't turn the cylinder, you will need to replace the entire ignition module. It isn't that difficult. You will need to use a dremel tool to slot the bolts and then unscrew them. Take a replacement ignition and bolt it back on and you are good to go. If you want me too I can look at a local JY fo you. I think there is an outback here and I can get you the ignition. You will use your electrical part and the mechanical part I can get for you. Let me know if you wnat me to do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tybalt Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 If you can't turn the cylinder, you will need to replace the entire ignition module. It isn't that difficult. You will need to use a dremel tool to slot the bolts and then unscrew them. Take a replacement ignition and bolt it back on and you are good to go. If you want me too I can look at a local JY fo you. I think there is an outback here and I can get you the ignition. You will use your electrical part and the mechanical part I can get for you. Let me know if you wnat me to do that. Thanks for the offer, I would appreciate the help. The local Subaru dealer just quoted me 504 dollars to special order the module so it looks like a JY is the way to go. There aren't a whole lot of Subarus in South Florida, so looking further afield might be the best bet. I've gotten to the point where I would need a dremel (would have to buy one). Though it looks like there's a substantial amount of wiring on either side of the ignition that might complicate the extraction. That said, there's not a whole lot of sense in pulling anything else out until I'm ready to install something, correct? (There's no repairing something like this, is there?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tybalt Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 Update: I'm bringing it in to a respected mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 more often than not, if the key will not turn, it is a worn key or lock cylinder. a decent locksmith should be able to ''pick'' the lock if this is the actual case. (90 - 99 any way, i don't know if or when they changed the lock cylinders on subarus.) once the lock cylinder has been turned, removal is easy. i would probably remove all the plastic coverings and then get the car to a lock shop. if you can not get the lock cylinder to turn you will have to remove the ''ignition assembly'' from the steering column. i have done this using a punch and a hammer to slowly turn the ''headless'' security bolts, tap, tap, tap, tap. if you do this you can take the cylinder to the lock smith to have it ''fixed''. or just hire a car thief to use his slide hammer to jerk the cylinder out of the column. they do it on TV in about 5 seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 You can easily fix this yourself. No need to get a mechanic and add costs to the job. The ignition assembly is all mechanical with the electrical component on the far end. Once you have the bolts out, the assembly will fall off in two parts. You can then unscrew the electrical component and replace the mechanical part. It should take you under two hours and you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you did it all by yourself. The part at the JY will be under 30.00 and then you will just have your labor involved. You can even call me and I can talk you through it. Just jump on it and fix it yourself. I will try to get to the JY tomorrow and=pull the assembly for you. Okay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericcroll Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 I'm almost in the same boat... My ignition assembly is starting to get tricky (sometimes takes me a few tries to get it to turn), but my driver's side door lock assembly has given up. Do you guys have any suggestions as to which way to go? I've heard and read that the door lock assembly can be a battle. Should I be looking for a whole set of tumblers from the JY and replace them all, or should I be trying to have them repaired to fit my key? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Getting them at a JY with a key is the way to go. Having them fixed is very expensive. around 50-75 per lock. I got my forester with mismatched doors and ignition. I found a forester at the Jy and got the parts for around 20 and replaced them myself. The doors are a bit of a pain, but with a little patience, it will be done and you will know that you did it yourself and saved alot of money. The door in a legacy are much easier than the forester. I have done those too. Look and you will see access holes to help with installation. The retaining clip is the only hard part and if you know someone with small hands it should be a breeze. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericcroll Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 I believe that I read on here somewhere that any set from a '90-'99 will work on my 97 OBW. Does that include all Subes, or just the Legacys? I'll need both doors, as well as the ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 The ignition is different from te legacy to the impreza and forester. You want to stick with the legacy stuf and the years you list are correct. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeerMagnet Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I'm looking for info on how to replace the Ign. lock cyl. on 1995 Subaru Legacy Sedan. I'm pretty mechanical but have never worked on a Subaru this is my daughters car and I'm trying to save her some money. I need to do the same thing with a 1991 Legacy Sedan. I found a YouTube video that makes it look pretty simple to remove: ...and one on re-keying a cylinder lock: so, between the videos and the spare ignition cylinder from my '98 Forester, I figured I could make it work. Nope. As mdjdc says... The ignition is different from te legacy to the impreza and forester. You want to stick with the legacy stuf and the years you list are correct. For example, the "trick" to remove the lock cylinder from the housing doesn't even work on the Forester assembly. So, after the head gasket is finished on the Legacy... off to the junkyard for ignition cylinders w/keys. Fortunately for me, Subarus are plentiful in the NW. Hope this helps someone.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alpop Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Anyone know if this "removing the keyway" procedure will work on a 1999 legacy, 2.2L, automatic transmission? The lock shop guy seemed to think not, that the whole assembly needed replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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