Transmission Slow to engage after HG job.

[Jarhett]

Alright, so I bought a 96 Outback with 2.5 L engine and 130 k miles on it, to my dismay I quickly discovered a bad headgasket and replaced it. When I put the engine back in, it ran great, then I tried to put it in gear... Nothing. After some effort and time I figured out I didn't prime the Torque converter! (rookie mistake, I know) SO I tore the whole thing back apart again and primed the torque converter, got it seated, put the engine back in, and now it drives! YAY! But here's the rub: any time the engine is turned on, the transmission does not engage until I rev it up to about 3-4000 RPM, then it *grabs* and drives fine until the engine is shut off again. The fluid level reads crazily HIGH until I get the TC to *grab* then it reads at the correct level. From what I've read it COULD be transmission drainback, so where is the anti-drainback valve on these models?

 

Some other information that may not apply:

I am leaking a bit of tranny fluid from the torque converter area, not severe, but surely there.

In diagnosing my empty TC, I did a full tranny flush with aftermarket fluid.

I have found more metal shavings than I would have liked in the process of all this.

During the HG job, I had help who almost attempted close the gap between the engine and the bell housing by tightening the bolts, he started to, but I stopped him before he got too far and we got the oil pump tube thing seated so that it all went together peacefully, but I have since been concerned that we damaged the tranny's oil pump that day, and that mistake may come back to bite me

I am not sure just yet, but I think I am getting terrible gas milage.

 

I am driving it for now, but don't want to let this go on too long, thanks all!

[bstone]

I am unsure but I am subscribing.

[nipper]

If you removed the TC with the engine, you may have damaged the input shaft seal.

 

Do a stall test, I think you may have messed something up.

 

Put the car in drive while running. Stand on the brake pedal. Give the car throttle. The engine rpm reached should be shy of 3000 RPM.

 

Stall Test Results

Higher than normal RPM indicates one or more of the following:

• Slippage of the forward clutch

• O.W.C. not holding

• Low/Reverse brake slipping

• Overall low line pressure

Lower than normal RPM indicates one or more of the following:

• Incorrect throttle adjustment

• Poor engine operation

• Torque converter stator slippage will cause higher RPM.

 

This sounds like the converter is not in properly.

http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/torque_converters_explained.asp

 

 

[zedhead]

If the TC is not seated properly, damage to the pump is possible.

[idosubaru]

I figured out I didn't prime the Torque converter! (rookie mistake, I know) SO I tore the whole thing back apart again and primed the torque converter,!

i've never primed a torque converter before so i doubt that was an initial mistake. it may be more "proper" to do it, but i've never heard of it and i've never done it so it's not necessary by any means nor does it "cause" damage. TC should fill up really quick as soon as the pump gets going.

 

I had help who almost attempted close the gap between the engine and the bell housing by tightening the bolts, he started to, but I stopped him before he got too far and we got the oil pump tube thing seated so that it all went together peacefully

this is what i was guessing before I read this far....i think you'd have to describe "before he got too far" to be sure for those of us that weren't there, can't see the car, etc. could be other things but this cracks the oil pump and has caused grief to many folks, so we should get more description here first.

 

metal in the fluid sounds bad for sure.

[cj7135]

Some other information that may not apply:

I am leaking a bit of tranny fluid from the torque converter area, not severe, but surely there.

 

Did you remove the Torque Converter to Flexplate bolts (using the plug on the back of the engine) when you took the engine out? If you pulled the T/C with the engine, you almost certainly damaged the seal, which would affect the stall and pressure within the T/C. If not, did you ever run the trans without fluid in it? (Some people say to run it dry to get the extra fluid out, but BAD idea). Usually fluid from the bell-housing means you'll be taking the engine out again. Do the stall test, see what happens. If i had to guess you will be replacing either the T/C, the seals, the pump, or if you've really fried it then a combination of those. You may want to consider another tranny, depending on the mileage of the one you currently have. If you have the facilities and time, i'd take the engine out and start with the seals. Never remove the T/C from the trans unless you have to, remove the flexplate first!

 

Another solution is magic in a bottle (also known as Lucas Transmission Fix). It's supposed to fix seals and pressure problems, but this is a temporary (and certainly not guaranteed) solution, and should only be used as a last resort.