Chasing the leak

[Idasho]

For the last few months Ive been chasing an oil leak in my '84 GL.

 

Long story short, the Rear main seal, flywheel o-ring, and oil pan are all new and stay dry. Each have been replaced, more than once now.

 

Yet I still have a leak that drips from the rear most corner of the oil pan on the passenger side. Once the engine is up to operating temp, I get one drip every 5-6 seconds. Quite the leak.

 

After getting it back together again the last time, only to find I still have the leak after resealing the oil pan for the 3rd time, I threw up my hands, and drove it to the dealer.

 

They told me it was the pan.... So I had them do it.

 

Im batting 0-5 on my attempts to fix the leak.

Now the dealer took a swing and is 0-1.

 

I still have the leak.

 

Looking through the shop manual I have, I see that the "flywheel housing" is a separate piece from the engine case halves. Is this a common source for leaks with the EA81?

 

It also looks like I get to reseal the pan............again. Since you have to pull the pan to remove the flywheel housing.

 

And any tips to reseal this housing would be appreciated.

 

Thanks.

[ruparts]

hi,

yes that is a good candidate for your leak, i can't remember if there is a gasket between the block and that rear cover , but the "T" intersection where the 2 parts meet the pan or between the block and rear cover may be the source of your leak. that rear housing piece has dowel pins to align it with the rear of the block , so you have to pry on it some, after the bolts are removed, also the bolts that hold it on are behind the flywheel so you gotta take the clutch and flywheel off to get at them, so that means remove the trans or pull the engine.

if you go to all the effort be sure to super clean all oil from the sealing surfaces and check them for nicks and gouges that could let oil pass. before putting it back , i like the brown aircraft type brush on sealer for places that see oil, others may like the aerobic sealers , but don't use silicone .

[Ricearu]

also what most people don't know is that when using sealant, put it on in a thin layer(1/16" or so), snug the bolts just until the pooky starts to squish out then let it sit for 30 minutes or more to firm up, THEN torque the bolts to spec. this allows the pooky to act like more of a gasket instead of a glue.

[Idasho]

Thanks for the responses guys.

 

An update though....

 

I just saved myself another engine pull.

 

I was snooping around with a flashlight and my inspection mirror last night. I found the leak to be coming from the passenger side case bolt, right near the bellhousing and oil pan.

 

I removed the bolt, hosed everything down with brake clean, slobbered some Mopar RTV on the bottom side of the head of the bolts, and put it back in.

 

My leak has gone from 1 drip every few seconds, to 1 drio every time I park. And what is still leaking may simply be leftover oil under there, finding its way to the skid plate.

 

Im happy!

[Caboobaroo]

hi,

yes that is a good candidate for your leak, i can't remember if there is a gasket between the block and that rear cover , but the "T" intersection where the 2 parts meet the pan or between the block and rear cover may be the source of your leak. that rear housing piece has dowel pins to align it with the rear of the block , so you have to pry on it some, after the bolts are removed, also the bolts that hold it on are behind the flywheel so you gotta take the clutch and flywheel off to get at them, so that means remove the trans or pull the engine.

if you go to all the effort be sure to super clean all oil from the sealing surfaces and check them for nicks and gouges that could let oil pass. before putting it back , i like the brown aircraft type brush on sealer for places that see oil, others may like the aerobic sealers , but don't use silicone .

 

There's no gasket or seal, its the gray sealer from the dealer and nothing else.