Any specifics when buying high mile outback

[jazzmandolin]

Ok, folks I have found a 96 5 speed Outback that seems to be close to what I am looking for? I have not gone to look at it yet but they say it will not pass a emissions test due to a exhaust leak and it has 254,000 miles on the ticker. Says to have been well maintained and a no accident vehicle with excellent body and paint, no picture. My question being is there anything specific I should check for look for listen for when I go see and test drive this vehicle. I know all the basic stuff but am not too familiar with the all wheel drive subs? There is no emissions test where I live so if the exhaust is not loud it should pass? Anyway the price is right but the 254,000 miles concerns me just a bit even though from what I understand it should have the last of the bullet proof NON-interference ej22s? Thanks for any and all of your excellent input. Peace out

[mikec03]

I have a '95 with 202K. It's somewhat a matter of price. At 250k, You can expect a lot of things randomly failing as you probably know: starter, water pump, bearings, oxygen sensors, fuel pump, etc. Specifically, for this model year, the gas filling tube is leaking or has already been replaced, and the back panels above the rear wheels should be rusted through. And on my '01 that I used to have, the clutch completely failed at about that mileage.

 

But if is less the $1000, and you don't mind being stopped by the side of the road occasionally, go for it. In point of fact, my '95, has been stopped by the side of the road twice in the last 70K.

[Rooster2]

My guess is that the check engine light is on, and seller is saying the exhaust leak is causing that, so the presence of any CEL will cause it to fail inspection. That may be true, or there may be additional CEL codes that need to be addressed. Suggest pulling code(s) to see what is going on. BTW, an auto parts store will pull codes at no charge.

 

Ask owner when was the last time that the timing belt was replaced. Also, look at repair receipts, if your interest in the car takes you to a higher buying interest.

 

Check for torque bind in the all wheel drive system. Lots written up about that on this forum in the archives. A search titled "torque bind" will give you a good education on the subject.

 

At this point, you really need to look and drive the car to see how well it drives and runs, and how the clutch performs. With that many miles, you should be able to buy the car on the cheap, but like said, it will be prone to break downs. If you are mechanically inclined, and don't mind making repairs, then you should be okay with this car. If you don't work on cars, then taking this car to a shop on a continuing basis could get expensive.

[MilesFox]

make sure all the tires are the same size, and ask when the timing belt was last done, if done, and whatever maintenance papers they have.

 

If the car is clean and not rusted, or beat up, snatch it up for a good price. high mile cars tend to reflect the maintenance performed to last that long.

 

this kind of miles on this car would be worth about $1000-$1500 to buy used.(maintained and not trashed)

[cj7135]

Hey, i've got almost 400,000km on my outback, which is about the same mileage as yours. The things I would check for are the same as above (timing belt, clutch, etc). Check for overheating and make sure the heater transfers heat (not for your pleasure but thats a test for the water pump and head gasket). My bet is that there are a lot more sensors throwing codes than the exhaust.

 

When you're shifting the tranny make sure the synchros aren't worn (that you can pull it into gear quick enough without completely grinding it.) But a small *Click* or *Clunk* is normal. Listen to the rear end at highway speed and make sure there's no howls (either diff or wheel bearing).

 

Bottom line is this: If you want to buy a high-mileage car, plan on buying parts. You can plan on doing the rear wheel bearings, the gas tank (especially if they salt your roads), differential and transmission oil changes, and exhaust work. Listen to the engine and make sure there's no knocking or very loud clicking (a little tick is ok). I would suggest fixing your exhaust, as it's a pretty simple pipe repair, not worth waiting for it to get worse. I wouldn't invest in it if you don't want to do some maintenance. Mine is in very good condition, but all the wheel bearings, struts, brakes, stabilizer links and bushings, and front end has all been changed. That's an easy 3,000$ right there at a shop, and that's if you dont have any engine troubles. I did all my own work, and I just rung in at a little over 1000$ for a full maintenance. Also, i'm running an auto in my OBW, the manual trannys usually go before 300,000 miles so I would ask if it's been changed, and if not ask yourself if you're willing to change it.

 

A test drive should tell you, make sure theres' no clunks or bangs and the steering doesn't shake. As long as it takes the bumps ok, and the underbody isn't completely rusted, and the engine and tranny run smooth, I would say 1300$ if adequate, maybe 1800 in good shape. Then i would plan on doing all fluids for about another 100$ on your own or 200$ at a shop.