Durania Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Noticed today that the bolts that hold my exhaust together where the exhaust at the cat meets the midpipe bolts are pretty shot and the exhaust is leaking. What bolts can I use to replace the wore ones there. 95 Outback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 bolts with nuts would be 10mm x 1.25. the donut gasket should have a spring bolt kit. you can use whatever will fit in the holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Thanks Mr. Fox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Yeah - for flex purposes you really should stick with the OEM shouldered bolts and springs. And a new donut gasket...... if the flanges are torn up and won't seat well against the donut I have had good luck with copper RTV (the highest-temp variety) for sealing them up. It's good to like 750 degree's F which should be plenty that far from the header. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 As pointed out there is a kit fo rthis joint And "flange fix kits" to simulate the flanges that get installed individually then bolted together basically to create the connection along with the donut. This is what I take to my local independent exhaust shop. They cut it out, make a sleeve, and weld it in for 40 bucks. Best 40 bucks I spend. Also FYI occasionally the pipes are good and I do leave this joint in place. The LISTED donut gasket is often too small. It is meant for a spiffy new pipe. And it would take too much sanding to get it on. So I look for one of a slightly larger diameter than is listed. Luckily at my local independent place they let me play behind the counter on the wall that has these gaskets - Walker I believe. The slightly larger one install more easily over the pipe (I still sand it and stuff) and still crushes just fine when the bolts are tightened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 I will be trying out the Walker split flange on my 2001 Forester this weekend...106k miles and original exhaust. Not bad for life in New England. I was amazed to look under there and see that the muffler/tailpipe still looks in decent shape....as does the center/resonator pipe. Only the flange that connects them and its bolts have rusted away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 I will be trying out the Walker split flange on my 2001 Forester this weekend...106k miles and original exhaust. Not bad for life in New England. I was amazed to look under there and see that the muffler/tailpipe still looks in decent shape....as does the center/resonator pipe. Only the flange that connects them and its bolts have rusted away. That's what I was referring to. Take a good look. On the ones I've needed to fix usually it takes 2 sets of htose split flanges, then 2 bolts/nuts to bolt them to each other. Often I'd seemingly run out of hands. But seriousely in the end I'd call an exhaust shop to see what they'd want. For all the better I can repair them here in Pennsylvania it's money well spent for me and the repair is better, and ends up costing not much more than the parts you're gonna buy. My place is 40 bucks - but he's done a lot of them for me. Let us know how you make out. I'd expect our rust issues to be similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 Forgot to finalize this. I just took it to my local trusted tire place that also does exhaust work. Turns out, the pipe was broke after the cat. They just welded it back together for $27. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Thanks for the update. Probably money well spent and aggrivation saved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 That is great that you folks get such reasonable pricing for your exhaust cut & weld service down there. Something tells me up here in Taxholechewschitz, I would be paying much more for the same service. So, yes, I have to order 2 sets of those split flanges and buy 2 bolts to connect them, but that will total right about $40 (Amazon had a good price). Worth a try. If I can't get it tight enough to pass inspection, then I will farm it out to the muffler shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Well, I put on the split flanges, and it does pull the two pipes together and hold them solidly in place, but it still leaks....so off to the muffler shop I go to have them cut and weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Common - that's why I go the welding route. For the time and effort you have in it and it's still broken isn't worth it. Now find a local INDEPENDENT shop that can bend pipe. Don't go to a chain for a reasonable repair for something like this (some would say for anything). It confuses them - how to write it up, split it between the shop and employee, etc. So they just keep adding $ to the job. Show up with cash at an independent shop and let them "work you in". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 Common - that's why I go the welding route. For the time and effort you have in it and it's still broken isn't worth it. That is exactly why I said screw it and took it to a shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 That is exactly why I said screw it and took it to a shop. I recommend it all the time here. I'm amazed by how many folks think they will make out better for some reason. Some will, most I don't think will. I suggest the new piece of pipe route because I've been down this road many times. I understand folks like to do things themselves. But this is a case where paying just a few bucks for the correct materials, expertise, and tools (pipe bender) is worth it. And I have a lift at home so it's easier for me than most to piss with this. Someone should somehow make this a "sticky" suggestion for the most common exhaust leak. It seems way too many folks are causing themselves to loose money (on the parts trying to fix it themselves) and time/aggrivation from trying to fix it themselves. In the end they get it welded anyways. The only other solution is to buy new pipe and cat(s) which is nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 If you can weld it's not too hard to get a couple flanges, a gasket, and a universal stainless flex. That's how I would fix it. But I have done a bit of exhaust work and it's not really a big deal to me. I would not like having the header, cats, and mid all one peice on the '90 to '94's and the newer stuff becomes a problem if you try and seperate the rear cat flange - leads to leaks and P0420 codes..... plus those flanges are usually a mess too. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2manetoys Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Common - that's why I go the welding route. For the time and effort you have in it and it's still broken isn't worth it. Now find a local INDEPENDENT shop that can bend pipe. Don't go to a chain for a reasonable repair for something like this (some would say for anything). It confuses them - how to write it up, split it between the shop and employee, etc. So they just keep adding $ to the job. Show up with cash at an independent shop and let them "work you in". +10 to the independent shop. I found one in my town and got a new flange welded to the cat, with a new donut gasket, a joint in the rear removed and a solid piece welded in, a broken bracket repaired, and heat shields tacked back down. When I asked how much, they said "$40". I gave em $50 cause I was happy with how quiet it was and that they did a lot of the "little stuff" without even being asked. A chain store would have wanted to sell me a new cat and still wouldn't have touched the rest of the stuff like the broken bracket and heat shields. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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