GLwagonlove Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 (edited) I had weber carb put on last weekend, and it ran great in warm weather, but not so great in the cold weather we have gotten today. The choke is out of whack. It starts great in the morning, and adjust down to 1000 RPM once I hit the pedal. The problem starts that as I drive it, the choke then seems like it adjust again? At stop lights I can barely hold it back, because it idles at 2000 RPM! Then if I put in neutral is races up to 4000 RPM, but once I hit the pedal it goes back down to 1000, until I put in drive again... then the problem starts again. It will cruise 35 mph without me even putting my foot on the pedal! This is killing my gas mileage, and I don't know how to adjust anything... Anyone is the Fort Collins, Greeley, Loveland, Colorado area that could help? Anyone know of a "adjusting weber carbs for dummies" guide? Thanks guys for your time! Edited March 9, 2011 by GLwagonlove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickolai Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Sorry to hear you're having problems. Mine seemed to be adjusted correctly when I got it, although I did tighten the 3 screws on the choke itself because they were out of whack. You might check this and see if there's a small gap in the choke housing. I don't know if it will help your problem but it's a place to start. Check your vacuum lines. Did you leave any open? Try turning the idle adjust screw down and see what it does. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Make sure the choke is fully open once the engine is warm. If not,loosen the 3 choke cover screws and rotate the cover until the choke is just fully open. Check that it closes w/cold. Make sure you have 12 volts on the choke wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Will call in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suberfox Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 So.....I guess we will never no the answer to this one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarule Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 It sounds like maybe your throttle linkage is hanging up, or not having smooth action. Make sure it's moving freely. It needs to be able to do this on its own without you hitting the gas pedal to un-bind it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLwagonlove Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 Tried all the adjusting didn't help... Suberule- That's sound like it is it... So it's suppose to adjust back down to normal idle speed by itself? I didn't know that. I will look at the linkage closer. Thanks! I have also found that as long as I stay below 35 mph, it stays at normal idle speed. But as soon as I got faster than that (45-55) it seems stuck racing at 4000 rpm... the rest of the time until I put it in neutral and hit the pedal to bring it back down. Suberfox- and yes you'll be the first to know the answer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarule Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 Tried all the adjusting didn't help... Suberule- That's sound like it is it... So it's suppose to adjust back down to normal idle speed by itself? I didn't know that. I will look at the linkage closer. Thanks! It most definitely should go back to normal RPMs by itself. You said you had a Weber put on recently. So did I. I don't know what set-up you used but I used the Redline Weber kit #K731 (32/36 DGEV), which is for electric chokes. There is also a #K730 (32/36 DGV) for manual chokes. The linkages for the 2 kits are slightly different from each other. Here is a reference for you to look at: http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/subaru/ I hope something I posted will help you sort it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarule Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 GLwagonlove,, I noticed that you are in Colorado. If your car sold new in Colorado it might have something on it called a "high altitude package". I bought my Sube new in Denver, it's a GL wagon, and it does have that. I don't know if it plays any role at all in the way your car is running but I wanted you to be aware that your Sube may have this. Truly, I have no idea what this high altitude package does but the very name of it suggests to me that it is aimed at altitudes where oxygen is thinner. Whether this integrates directly with the carb I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLwagonlove Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 (edited) Suberule thanks for all the info! I believe it's fixed... and yes it was the linkage. (Please excuse me for my incorrect names for things). Where the throttle wire comes out of the tube thingy and connects to the choke (?). On the end of the throttle wire it ends in a T (like a hammer) where it sticks out each side of the bracket it's on. Well one side of the "hammer" was stick out to far, and getting hung up on the part of the choke because it was so close. So I stuck a small piece of good old duct tape in there to keep it from sticking out so far. And like magic no more high idle while driving! This Weber was from an old toyota, so I think it was sticking out because the hole had rounded out... That is as clear as mud I am sure. I will try to post so pictures of what I talking about tomorrow. The real test will come tomorrow at 5 am when I head to work. We see if everything is good to go! I will let you know. Thanks everyone! Edited March 9, 2011 by GLwagonlove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarule Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Suberule thanks for all the info! I believe it's fixed... and yes it was the linkage. (Please excuse me for my incorrect names for things). Where the throttle wire comes out of the tube thingy and connects to the choke (?). On the end of the throttle wire it ends in a T (like a hammer) where it sticks out each side of the bracket it's on. Well one side of the "hammer" was stick out to far, and getting hung up on the part of the choke because it was so close. So I stuck a small piece of good old duct tape in there to keep it from sticking out so far. And like magic no more high idle while driving! This Weber was from an old toyota, so I think it was sticking out because the hole had rounded out... That is as clear as mud I am sure. I will try to post so pictures of what I talking about tomorrow. The real test will come tomorrow at 5 am when I head to work. We see if everything is good to go! I will let you know. Thanks everyone! Be sure to let us know how it's running since the fix. As for proper names for things, you did just fine. Throttle linkage, throttle cable = one & the same. Subarule Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GLwagonlove Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 It is working great! It climbed up to 3000 rpms this morning for about 5 minutes, and then when back down on it's own. Pure joy! It's amazing what a tiny piece of tape duct tape can do! It's was getting hung up on a little brass piece on the choke. Here's some pictures: Okay this is my setup see the little brass piece it was getting hung up on see the tape i put in there to solve the problem (redneck style points) Thanks for all the help guys! I am loving the way it drives now. I will have to post some better pictures of the GL, since it feels like a new car to me now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qman Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 Just a heads up... I see a couple potential problems for you down the road. The angle on the accelerator cable is too extreme and will eat through the sheething. Also, you will want to install a return spring to avoid issues with that later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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