3Pin Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Which engines will fit in a 99 legacy wagon with an automatic? It looks to be a phase II 2.2 that is in it now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Which engines will fit in a 99 legacy wagon with an automatic? It looks to be a phase II 2.2 that is in it now? Covered here many times. 95-99 2.2. If it had a 2.2 it should have a single port exhaust - check that first. If so a 96-99 2.2 should work. If it has a dual port exhaust you'll prefer a 95 2.2 auto (with EGR) or if you grab a 96-99 2.2 you'll need a single port Ypipe. Other than that the usual minor issues. 99's seem to have 8 eng/trans bolts and the earlier years have 4. You only need 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 Many thanks for the precise answer! I will check in the AM if it is single or dual exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 Which engines will fit in a 99 legacy wagon with an automatic? It looks to be a phase II 2.2 that is in it now? I own a 99 Leggie. I have always heard that the 99 has the gen 2.5, or 30th anniversary had the 2.2. Both phase (gen) 1 motors. Gen 1 and Gen 2 motors will not interchange plug and play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 I own a 99 Leggie. I have always heard that the 99 has the gen 2.5, or 30th anniversary had the 2.2. Both phase (gen) 1 motors. Gen 1 and Gen 2 motors will not interchange plug and play. This is correct. And I'm used to 2.5's in 99's. I know the Foresters got the new 2.5's in 99. It is possibly that it has the newer 2.2 in a 99. I've only seen 2.5 DOHC's in 99 Legacy's. S0 - something else to check. Look at where the engine/trans meet back by the throttle body onthe passenger side. See if there are 2 or 3 wire connectors. If it's 3 connectors it's the old style (95-98 or 99), if it's the 2 connector you gotta get the newer engine. Basically it's too big of a challenge to overcome the wireing difference. So that needs to be the key. Please report back. I've had a few Legacy 2.2 sedans and I believe they were the old style engines - but I didn't swap engines in them, and I know the Outback 2.5's are the old style. Perhaps the 99 Legacy wagon got the new engine in 99. In addition to not wanting to give any incorrect info I'd like to know for myself. There probably is a chart around here. But if you check that wireing (and perhaps Y-pipe secondarily) that should tell you all you need really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 I pulled my info off of cars 101 initially. They said it was a 2.2 genII. I will confirm and let you all know what is in this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted March 10, 2011 Share Posted March 10, 2011 There are a few 99's out there that have the Phase II 2.5 in them, but never the Phase II 2.2. And only in sedans, not wagons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 I'm interested as well if your 2.2 is a phase1 or 2. I've heard people say either way... Phase2 if the plugs go through the valve covers. I know in my family's 99 legacy outback it has the ej25D, so phase1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 99 Outbacks came with both Phase I and Phase II engines, they switched about halfway through the year. I was always under the impression however, that 99 legacies were phase II. I don't remember where I got that idea from so I can't say it's right. hmmmmmmmmm, if what you say is true about the mid year switch over, is there a vin number listing somewhere. Before that number is phase 1, after that number is phase 2? I always thought all 99 OBWs were phase 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 VIN listings can be confusing sometimes though. Say after they switched to phase2 they had some phase1 stuff left over, they could put that in the car. And it would be recorded in the computer for dealers and whatnot that VIN has phase1 parts. Even if it's in the middle of phase2 production season. I've never heard anything about 99 legacys having the phase2 ej25. I've just heard mixed chatter about some having phase2 ej22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 The verdict is in: 2.2 motor, single exhaust phase one. Thanks for all of the advice and comments. Looks like a 97 2.2 will be my next powerplant for this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 That'll work then. Good luck. Reseal the new engine while it's out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 that'll work then. Good luck. Reseal the new engine while it's out. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Guys, after looking hard at the 2.2 in my new 99 legacy wagon, I think I am going to take back my statement that it is a gen 1. I think it is a gen II 2.2. Here is some info from end wrench that reinforces my thoughts. To the best of my knowledge, It looks like I can still drop in the 97, but it looks like it is gen II. The coil pack and valve covers look different than the 2.2's I have had in the past. For Legacy's: All 2.2 liter engine for 1999 are the Phase 2 design. The 2.2 liter Phase 2 engines are a SOHC design, with a newly-designed cylinder head. Changes in the 2.2 liter Phase 2 engines are as follows: The engine and transmission are fastened with six bolts and two studs. The thrust bearing has been moved to the number 5 position. The oil groove in the number 1 and 3 have been changed to supply additional lubrication to the crank journal. Additional Phase 2 Engine Features The cylinder head is a two-rocker shaft, solid type valve system with roller followers. The valves are positioned at a larger angle than previous model years. The intake valves are positioned 23 degrees off-center with the exhaust valves positioned 20 degrees off-center. Prior model year engines utilized a 15-degree positioning angle. Head gasket thickness is 0.7 mm (0.0 in). The intake rocker arms are marked so they are correctly placed on the rocker shaft when servicing. An IN1 or IN2 will be embossed on each rocker arm. As viewed from the front of the engine the Number 1 intake valve of ach cylinder and the number 2 intake valve have an IN1 marked and IN2 arked rocker arm that mates with it. New IN1 rocker arms can also be identified by a Green painted mark on the top of the rocker arm. The IN2 rocker arms have a white mark. Proper positioning is maintained through the use of a wave washer located between the rocker shaft arm and rocker arm shaft support. The camshaft is secured to the cylinder head with the camcase. An oil passage in the cylinder head provides the passageway in the camcase with oil that leads to the intake rocker shaft. Oil from the camshaft is collected on the opposite side of the passageway leading to the intake rocker shaft to provide oil to the exhaust rocker shaft. Note: Cylinder head and camcase must be replaced together (line bored). The sparkplug pipe is pressed into the cylinder head and is not serviceable.If it becomes damaged the cylinder head must be replaced. The seals installed onto the ends of the sparkplug pipes seal against the valve covers and should be replaced when the valve cover is removed. Pistons on the 2.2 liter engines have a 0.5 mm (0.0 in) offset with the engine having a compression ratio of 10.0 to 1. The horsepower has increased to 142 hp (106 kW) @ 5600 rpm. Maximum torque is 149 lb·ft (202 N·m) @ 3600 rpm. Camshaft sprockets are constructed of a resin type material with a metal key pressed into the sprocket for maintaining proper sprocket to shaft orientation. Can anyone else confirm or deny this to be accurate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 The plugs are going through the valve covers also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Your new information is correct. For the LEGACY (NOT OUTBACK) they got the 2.2 phase 2, same motor as many Impreza cars that year. Sorry I didn't catch this sooner. Possible swaps for that engine are 2.5L SOHC. Requires switching the front y pipe section over (easy). I don't see the 2.2L in your car as any more reliable than a 2.5L SOHC. Its got all the negatives of the 2.5 except head gasket surface area, with less power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 Update: Looks like a bad keyway and pulley not a bad engine. We will try that first before a swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 I yank them, weld the crank, grind out for the keyway, get a used harmonic balancer and key. There are a few pics still I believe in my USMB photo album of one I fixed that was pretty bad. Needed an oil pump as well. This also tells you that whoever was in there last (for a timing belt or water pump) didn't know Subaru's. That crank bolt needs to be TIGHT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 When you say yank em, do you mean yank the motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 Yep. Not a big deal. Can't imagine trying to fix this problem in the car. Although I'm sure some have. Access to weld and grind and stuff. ALways easier on a stand or hanging from a cherry picker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 17, 2011 Author Share Posted March 17, 2011 I looked at the pictures thanks. Let me give you some background and then ask for advice. I picked this car up Monday from a guy who had a friend who did a Timing belt for him. You can guess the rest. He did drop it off running around 20 MPH to a mechanic who said that it looks like a bad harmonic balancer and a bad keyway. I want to see if the darn thing runs before I pluck it and do a bunch of work on it. The crank shaft is facing down so it is hard to see, the Harmonic Balancer,pulley definately is jangeld up near the notch. It looks more like a v than an slot on the pulley. The rest looks OK. I was going to have the mechanic put it back together to see if the valves and crankshaft aren't toast. Is this possible and the best way to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 17, 2011 Share Posted March 17, 2011 If it runs now - it's probably just the keyway. I forget because I just pull them and fix them. I don't recall if the splined piece that the harmonic balancer holds on can "walk" much with the bad keyway enough to cause valve issues. Perhaps someone else has experienced this and will chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 19, 2011 Author Share Posted March 19, 2011 Put it back together to test today and it ran well. Ordered the S wings keyway repair kit and a timing belt water pump kit off ebay and am off to the races. Life is good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 I'm unfirmiliar with that kit. If you can post some pics. I don't think there is a full procedure here on how to do this repair. I couldn't find one and forget to take pics of the repair. Often just before and after pics. But overall you're not bad off. Just make sure you get the crank bolt TIGHT. I doubt you get a second chance at this repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Pin Posted March 19, 2011 Author Share Posted March 19, 2011 I will post pictures. It only cost $190 with shipping and included a new keyway, pulley and gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.