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OBW Bash plate


lesstutrey
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Wanna cut/bend a bash plate for my 2002 OBW. I just need to go to the scrap yard and get stock, was thinking 1/8" or 3/16" alum, i just don't know how big of a piece i need to ask for. Suggestions on plate size? I want to cover the whole bottom of the engine compartment and possibly a stinger guard for the trannie, and i'll buy one of those widely available dif guards for 50-60$ for the rear. I just really don't need gravel to beat up my undercarriage when i'm going 70mph down a gravel road.

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Here's a picture from a company that makes them. They don't give size specs, but this is the body style of your car. Perhaps this will help you see where your measurements should be taken from.

 

http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/images/img-skid/2000%20-%202004%20outback%20skidplate%20with%20paint%20[800x600].jpg

 

hope it helps! I'm doing the same with my 2000 OBW this summer!

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I know about paul's stuff, but I would like to pay less if possible.

I am looking to make something to cover up the oil pan, the engine bay as much as possible, and if doable cover the bottom of the trans. I run a lot of gravel and dirt/gravel mix, straight lines out in farmland :) and I may cut through a corn field or hit a log roadd now and then so I don't want a stone or stump to take out my trans or engine. My friend has a plasma cutter so cutting to shape isn't a problem, just need to know where to connect it apart from the four screws I will replace that hold the stock plastic skid.

I also want a nudge bar or tube bumper but I think that is a pipe dream(haha) because no one makes em anymore.. I need a cheaper hobby, need a new camera. But then I will just wanna drive to pretty and isolated places to take photos. So how big a piece you think mike, you have probably been under legacy under carriages a bit longer than I. And what alloy, was thinking diamond plated if it is cheap (like they use for running boards). I also don't think that 1/16th of an inch in thickness is gonna make much difference.

Edited by lesstutrey
added info, formating
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seeing as you are basically ralling I would run what the rally cars run.3/8" aluminum.You will need to have a shop bend it because its way to thick to think about bending it yourself.Make a cardboard mock up then measure angles and where the bends should be then go to a shop with those measurements. alternately build it out of 1/8" steel plate.Then weld some 1/2" angle iron to the bottom of it running front to rear to act as stiffening ribs..

the 1/8" steel you can bend yourself (with some difficulty with a vice and a hammer)

 

run the angle iron like this:

 

_________

\/ \/ \/

 

 

3 or 4 full length welded ribs should would great.The angle iron needs to be welded continuously. so no stitch welding.Just don't warp the plate...

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seeing as you are basically ralling I would run what the rally cars run.3/8" aluminum.You will need to have a shop bend it because its way to thick to think about bending it yourself.Make a cardboard mock up then measure angles and where the bends should be then go to a shop with those measurements. alternately build it out of 1/8" steel plate.Then weld some 1/2" angle iron to the bottom of it running front to rear to act as stiffening ribs..

the 1/8" steel you can bend yourself (with some difficulty with a vice and a hammer)

 

run the angle iron like this:

 

_________

\/ \/ \/

 

 

3 or 4 full length welded ribs should would great.The angle iron needs to be welded continuously. so no stitch welding.Just don't warp the plate...

 

3/8's seems absurdly thick and would weigh a ton, are you sure they aren't running 3/16th's, because that is what primitive sells, and he runs rally-x. His thinner plates are 1/8" 3/8" is really, really thick. That plate would weigh near 50lbs. Bending involved meh, i'm out i don't have a brake, i would love a brake, but i don't have one. I think i'll just get primitive plates and call it a day, despite their high cost. They're designed for rally, and i guess yeah that is basically what i do, since there ain't no off-road really here. I put a rock through a condenser and it cost a lot to fix (on a 2006 avalon, under warranty but of course it's road damage so isn't covered), plates seem like a wise investment.

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yeah, he is on crack.

 

i have some old large door"kickplate" that came off of some warehouse doors.

it is aluminum.and has been made into a couple of bashplates .it is 3/16ths i believe.plenty strong, and hard as hell to bend.we had to go to a friend of mine with a press.

now, IF you have a press, you could make the dies pretty simple(next on the tool list).cheers, b

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Ive seen 3/8" aluminum plates bend and smash the oil pan pan anyway.land a car on a big rock and it will bend .If you can easily bend a piece of metal than so can a rock,branch,stump,etc if you hit it just wrong..

 

Ive seen people run big skid plates with a steel frame as well.I dunno I would rather have a plate be a bit overkill than buy a new engine or transmission.

 

No Im am not on crack.or weed, or even beer ( :( )

 

 

if im on crack than monstaru is on meth.he certainly acts like it.

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regardless.i have personally beat the ************ out of a vehicle with one of these bashplates i speak of.....3/16ths.a few small dents.

nothing more.and that was way more extreme driving than he will see apparently....

 

 

it also depends on what type of aluminum you are using.and yes, you are on crack if you think that 3/8ths aluminum plate is weak.........cheers, b

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Making any assertion of how strong a skid plate is based on thickness alone is silly. It depends so much on the alloy. Since i'm just gonna get a skid plate from primitive, since i don't know anyone with a brake press or H press and brake dies. I've seen what a boulder does to the diff cover when 2.5 2000 OBW car dropped on top of it some deep mud... (al la Brucey) and years of testimonials and the worst i've heard is bolts breaking and that's the ones from the dang factory that needed to be replaced.

post-36266-136027646906_thumb.jpg

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