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BRAT automatic to manual conversion


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Hey guys!

Let me introduce myself, I am Taj, located in Utah.

I'm a big car guy, and love building custom mechanical stuff. I've been into a bunch of AWD turbo cars in the past..

 

Long story short, I'm in possession of an '83 and an '84 Subaru Brat. The '83 was just a parts car for the '84, and truth be told the '83 might have been too far lost to rust when I started, or at least close.

BUT THAT DIDN'T STOP ME!

I have been cutting out steel and welding in new like crazy. The entire pillar below the drivers side door was completely missing rusted through, big holes in both the passenger and drivers floors, etc etc.

 

Now that I've rebuilt most of the car, I decided I want to keep it instead of sell it for a measly profit. A friend of mine is buying the '84 Brat from me, and he plans to drive it to Uruguay in like 5 months! That's a 6,000 mile trip!

 

 

So my '83 Brat had a bad automatic transmission. (FWD with push-button AWD on the auto shifter).

My buddy and I have been converting to a 4-speed manual out of an '81 Subaru wagon we found in the junk yard. (I know 80-82 had lower 1st and 2nd gear ratios)

New Sachs clutch kit.

I google-searched this thread, and it has been helpful to the swap:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69534

 

 

I could use further assistance though. Everything is all swapped in to my '83. The last thing not figured out is the wiring (not seeming as simple as that 2007 link I posted mentions).

 

Most those wires unhooked still, something in the engine bay is making a buzzing sound with battery connected.

 

-Manual trans just has on it sensor for the reverse lights, and the sensor to tell the gauges that t-case is in 4WD.

-auto trans had multiple sensors/connectors, and the auto-shifter also has wires for that push-button FWD/4WD thing.

 

I'd really appreciate if anyone can find me stock wiring diagrams for my '83 automatic Subaru GL Brat with push-button 4WD!

I will be able to post up pictures like all my rust repair also, later! I'm proud of what I've done, and you guys are some of the few that will appreciate.

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We got the Brat driving last night! Its sweet, I'm happy. Thanks a lot for that wiring diagram even though we figured it out without it.

 

My friend from Uruguay was more skilled with the volt meter than I had thought.

I should have trusted all the Fiero work he did lately, you know he converted his Pontiac Fiero V6 from automatic to manual trans a few weeks ago! That one was a harder swap than Brat.

 

 

He got my Brat reverse lights and everything working though.

There were negative and positive leads going to the auto trans connectors in the engine bay that were not used (I'm sure trans needed power for the push-button 4WD thing).

 

Something buzzing in my engine bay is an emissions thing on the intake manifold with hoses going to it, maybe will sort itself and maybe just bad from age and will get replaced..

 

One difference between the cars, the old auto brat(83) only has 1 4WD light on the dash, where as the original manual brat(84) has a 4-hi and 4-lo light on the dash.

We still haven't got this new trans into 4-lo, but it goes into 2WD and 4-hi, we will mess with it some more. The 4WD shifter bracket actually just got welded solid with a piece of angle iron right to the side of my interior trans tunnel, lol.

 

BIG props to Subaru for the engineering of these cars clear back in the 70's and 80's. Its something special when a car company designs the automatic and manual cars to share the same driveshaft, AND axles, AND starter motor.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah the rust repair is epic here!

I'll keep you guys up on new pics.

 

Plus this morning I blew the headgasket on my Eagle Talon Tsi :-\

so I've got to drive this brat for awhile anyway..

 

 

I've got an awesome Jeep kina push-bar with KC running lights to install on the front bumper, it was on the old '81 GL wagon in the junk yard I stole the transmission swap components from. And I've got a big steel beam I'm building a custom rear bumper out of.

I'm welding on now a 2" exhaust muffler that came off my old '89 Chrysler Conquest (Mitsubishi Starion) car.

I'm installing 95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse bucket seats into the brat (passengers for now, I'll get a drivers seat).

 

Later on I'll probably try bigger wheels, eventually 6" lift hopefully

Edited by TajMan
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.. turns out I'm having more electrical woes now.

 

Can anyone post complete vehicle wiring diagrams for my '83 car, or where I might locate them??

That's what I really need asap.

 

It had some issues and would barely run, I think stuff in the old carb broke loose and gunked things up.

I have the carb from the '81 in the junk yard I just picked up and will try now.

Sorry, no Starion wheels anymore.

and I ended up using my '91 Talon bucket seats in my Brat

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So we got a 2nd carb installed and got the thing started again.

Its pushing a ton of air through the breather hose from the left valve cover to the air intake, so I guess that's massive blowby. :-\

177K miles, and the smoke it wants to make when you let it warm up.. I bet the rings are pretty far gone.

 

I can get a full engine gasket set for like $60, and piston rings only are cheap.

I'm considering opening this motor up and replacing the rings-only for a fix.

 

If I don't do that, then I'll prob. also swap in the junk-yard motor from the '81, it only had 139K miles on it, and its trans I used has a shifter that feels tight not loose. :D

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Still an emotional struggle, so much time invested in to the car (and other cars of mine), without any working product yet and still unknowns.

 

I think the motor will run alright, the wiring is still messed up so we'll see where we can get with it tomorrow.

 

Knowledgeable people with these Brat's wiring, if I post pics and you can answer questions that would be great help.

 

I'll host pics on another computer, my internet isn't uploading pictures...

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Hey guys, the 1 thing we need help with, where is the COMBINATION BOX?

And, is the combination switch just the headlight/running light switch on the dash?

 

Pics, or whatever instruction would help.

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We've searched for hours on google, no combination box info yet..

 

We think that is the source of all our problems, probably a short somewhere around there messing with the left rear blinker, and ALSO messed up some other systems, but different source of positive was found to fix some of the other problems..

 

The blinker thing, and the 4WD light on the dash, are the last 2 issues to sort.

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Well whatever the combination switch or combination box is, we seemed to have not found it but have bypassed all the problems.

-both taillights work

-both brake lights work

-blinkers work

-reverse lights work

 

There's still an issue with the 4WD light on the dash, if we hook up the wire that makes it work, the wire just gets HOT real fast, so that's still to be figured out but....

 

Have NOT really driven the car on the road yet at all, but will today, I'll report back and show you some cool pics.

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Life goes on, bad weather and another car we were supposed to sell but haven't yet means I haven't been driving the Brat on the street YET.

 

passwheel.jpg

lots of work, that bed hook is secured higher than the others now and supported with steel square bar behind it.

Fibral fiberglass-reinforced bondo is awesome stuff

drvrswheel.jpg

psngrhole.jpg

hole in the floor getting there

psngrholefilled.jpg

overengine.jpg

transmount.jpg

The upper trans mount that's secured below the spare tire, I had to re-weld the bracket to the body. (crappy weld in pic isn't doing anything)

I like how these cars are built, but recognize that huge improvements in structural rigidity can probably be made just by stripping a car and welding up a lot of body seams.

 

The rust repair never ends, I keep cutting and welding.

Wherever I can, I coat in-side body cavaties that usually can't be accessed without steel cut away, just trying to minimize future rust that will grow from the inside out.

 

passfloorhole.jpg

passfloorfilled.jpg

 

The wiring has been a nightmare, I'd call things mostly temporarily fixed for now. So many of these subaru's old wiring systems are corroded and crap.

 

fusebox.jpg

rearwiring.jpg

rearbumper.jpg

 

One of my headlights is dim, I'll have to wait and see, probably try replacing the old light first.

Edited by TajMan
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So its been evening itself out a little as I drive it some..

 

Transmission lo-range??

 

This transmission came out of an '81 GL Wagon. The car had a Jeep push bar on the front bumper and was lookin all mad max and like a lo-range crawler.

 

Trans in my car now, It goes between 2WD and 4-hi no problem- but thats it. No lo-range gear selection, no matter how much force on lever, in neutral or rolling slowly, etc.

 

I thougt all the 4-speed manuals were low-range boxes? Did they make a 4WD gearbox with no lo-range?

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How can I tell if its the dual range or single range 4WD trans? code stamped on side of trans somewhere?

 

Old girl still did sweet up wheelin' tonight for a sec on the side of the mountain, '81 1st gear 4WD. made me happy :grin:

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So its been evening itself out a little as I drive it some..

 

Transmission lo-range??

 

This transmission came out of an '81 GL Wagon. The car had a Jeep push bar on the front bumper and was lookin all mad max and like a lo-range crawler.

 

Trans in my car now, It goes between 2WD and 4-hi no problem- but thats it. No lo-range gear selection, no matter how much force on lever, in neutral or rolling slowly, etc.

 

I thougt all the 4-speed manuals were low-range boxes? Did they make a 4WD gearbox with no lo-range?

 

They sure did and an 81 would be a high percentage chance of that.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a trans from another '84 junk yard car I can pull.

about 150K miles.

 

It should have low-range

It should probably not grind any gears, but thats a crapshoot

It will cost me about $80 if I return my other trans as a core.

 

 

How much work is it, to open trans and replace syncros or something to fix the 2nd gear grind?

 

 

 

I'm buying a Weber 32/36 DGEV carb from someone in OR for $230 shipped, very excited to get that on the car!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry no updates, my internet connection has been crappy and I can't upload pics.

 

The exhaust I built is pretty awesome. Dual 1.75" pipes merging into a 2.25" pipe/cat/muffler. Some of the piping and the cat and the muffler came from my old '89 Chrysler Conquest Tsi (stock parts I believe).

Sounds pretty deep and loud, I just need to secure or delete some cat/muffler exhaust shields to eliminate a small rattle.

 

..one of my issues is my fuel gauge that stopped working, and I thought the low fuel light worked.. but I ran out of gas twice yesterday so I guess not AND I suppose I'm getting worse fuel economy on the weber carb right now than best possible..

 

--------------------------------------------

 

IMPORTANT QUESTION

My buddy still has this other Brat I sold him, his clutch may be going out, I need a better trans without 2nd gear grind..

WHAT PARTS ARE REQUIRED FOR THE 5-SPEED MANUAL W/ LOW RANGE SWAP? (Into 4-speed w/ low range Brat)

 

Is a different length driveshaft required, besides the obvious trans/flywheel/clutch assy.?

local junk yard has an 85 Loyale sedan with this 5-speed manual and carb'd engine..

 

If it requires custom driveshaft because one isn't correct from Brat or the 5-speed Loyale, then driveline shop can custom alter a Brat driveline for us.

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