TheLoyale Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Nope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor pole Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 looks good! I like those corner lights too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Looks awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Anybody looking for a 2" SJR kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4play Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 how mutch for the lift Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Awesome! New development!! if you turn the key all the way to on, you will hear the fuel pump and some relays click like usual, BUT, after that, the pump will cycle again and relays click again. It seems to keep doing it, almost as if you were turning the key ON and OFF.Why is this? Whats going to cause this issue? I am guessing these two issues are tied together. Low Battery! ... Try Jumping it. Kind Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 ...also it could be some bad Grounding to the ECU ... or the ECU is failing somehow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 So it was not the pickup/Crank Sensor. I'm at a loss. There are only two grounds on the motor, right? One from the trans body and the other is attaches to the lower water pipe (Goes into Waterpump) Before I dropped the motor, it started and ran, now it just cranks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Check the fuses if you hadn't. make sure the little nugget hasn't fallen out of the inside of the cap. Check the pigtail on the disty. I would assume that maybe you dropped the steering column. there is a ground wire that goes thru one of the bolts. make sure that is there, and the ecu is mounted properly. MAybe you kncked a connector loose on the ign or fuel relays above the column. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 Fuses were the first thing I checked, then I checked the Coil, I get a volt reading off it and I also get pulsing while cranking if I use a light tester. Everything looks and seems fine, I just do not have any spark at all (I pulled #1 plug and cranked it) I ECU was flashing code 11 and 13 before, but now it just flashes 7 short times and starts over again. That is not a code. Guess I'm going to check the disty pigtail for ohms to make sure there is not a broke wire somewhere in the harness. As for the Steering column, nope, I did not touch it at all, but I will double check things there too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 (edited) the 7 flashes is just an identity code, I.E, AT, spfi, non cali model, etc. Perhaps the igniter coil on the coil bracket has failed. the coil comes on with the key. the disty uses the optical pickup to send pulse signals to the ecu. The ecu in tirn sends pulse signals to the ign amplifier on the coil bracket, which in turn breaks the field current in the coil to induce spark. The coil should zap a spark when you key off, or manually close and open contact to one of the terminals. Does the engine almost want to fire half a stroke the moment you let off the key? Edited June 6, 2013 by MilesFox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 8, 2013 Author Share Posted June 8, 2013 Fox, you were 100% right. It was indeed a loose relay above the steering column. Also the connector for the igniter was kinda gunked up, so that has been cleaned and addressed. No more issues! Drove the car to work for 2 days now It will be at Don Miller this year! Thank you for the advice. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 That's why he's the Fox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 I am that fox! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 Won trophies at Don Miller and kicked it on the east side 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92_rugby_subie Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Continues looking better everytime I check on it good work! If I had my 04 STI in aspen white with some mods... Id be good to go with a 2 inch lift... but sadly that day is not yet here and I drive the ol' EA82 another day.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jboymechanic Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 Man, I need to see this thing before summer is over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 16, 2013 Author Share Posted August 16, 2013 So after a few months with the new 4" kit and new Struts, I have decided that new springs are needed, for some reason the rear end bottoms out while going over Track crossings. The original shocks had more dampening and force it seems. As for the front struts, The passenger side tophat/lift block gets snagged in the strut tower for whatever reason causing the entire spring to twist and snap back (Causing a clunk) Why it gets stuck, unknown at this time. There is also a creaking and a knock while articulating and/or while the suspension is shifting. Issues I need to figure out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted August 16, 2013 Share Posted August 16, 2013 So after a few months with the new 4" kit and new Struts, I have decided that new springs are needed, for some reason the rear end bottoms out while going over Track crossings. The original shocks had more dampening and force it seems. As for the front struts, The passenger side tophat/lift block gets snagged in the strut tower for whatever reason causing the entire spring to twist and snap back (Causing a clunk) Why it gets stuck, unknown at this time. There is also a creaking and a knock while articulating and/or while the suspension is shifting. Issues I need to figure out. If the spring or top hat is touching the inner strut tower, you might just need to tap the area it touches with a hammer until it clears. -Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Thanks Bill that's what I was thinking. I may even go as far as to shave down the strut block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subruise Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 i had to shave my strut block on my 4"...its not a production kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRANDLOYALE Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Looks so fine! Rough & Ready! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted October 3, 2013 Author Share Posted October 3, 2013 4yr old Moog Ball joint has failed me. Lots of play, gonna change that out and then put the car away for winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 My Fiance' and I went for a little fall sight seeing trip the other weekend. Getting the full experience of the Autumn colors. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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